Tommy in Wilton
ArboristSite Member
Hey folks!
Yes, I am sore tonight. I removed a 21 X 21 foot wood deck about 10 years old from the back of my house today, and used the '65 McCulloch 250 that I bought last summer to do most of the work. To say that the saw made quick work of the deck with its 24 inch bar would be an understatement. I ripped out the deck because we are going to put in a pool.
And I'm 46 years old as well, 6'1" and 150 pounds. I cut the deck up, then broke it apart with a 16 pound sledge hammer. Then I piled the mess up about 20 feet away.
To say that I am a bit sore tonight would be a bit of an understatement! :msp_scared:
Damn, I am not getting any younger. When I was in college I was the same size and used to do this work every day during the summers and never felt a thing afterwards. Tonight I can barely walk~ :msp_angry:
Anyway, when I was cutting the 2 X 6 boards with the saw, I found that if I went from end to end and separated the surface boards in half between the lower supports, I could easily break them apart with the sledge hammer. What concerned me about doing this was the internal temperature of the saw. It took the saw about 3 minutes of full power running to cut across the 21 feet of 2 inch thick PT wood in very good shape.
Is it a good idea to let a saw like this run for three minutes straight at 100% power?
Two-stroke engines have to have very low compression and very rich mixtures in order to keep the temperature of the internal parts within safe limits; Due to the fact that the piston is heated EVERY single time it reaches TDC, this type of engine tends to run extremely hot.
I'm familiar with aircraft turbofan engines such as the Pratt & Whitney PT6, JT8D, JT9, PW2037, the GE CF6, and the Rolls Royce RB211 aircraft engines, and they all have 5 minute limitations, along with "surge" limitations of 2 minutes or less. Can anyone think of a "limitation" on a chainsaw engine such as this?
The saw in question runs CORRECTLY. It takes 10 pulls to start, but once it gets going, it pulls like HELL. And when you release the throttle and set it down, it sits on the ground spinning in circles from the vibration...idling beautifully. Why? Well, I'll tell you why: Mastermind rebuilt this saw last year, that's why!
Mastermind: There is no substitute!
[He should make an avatar with the word "Mastermind" across the top of a Porsche symbol] Heh-
Anyway, shameless plug aside.... The saw, when it was cutting that wood, was varying between "four cycling" and a strong two cycle scream, meaning that it was running on the rich side, which is what you want. The saw ran great until I cut into a support and hit some concrete, INSTANTLY damaging the chain. It wouldn't cut ANYTHING after that! Guess I have to get the round files out and try to make it better.
In any case, what do you think about running a saw long and hard like this?
Thanx!
T
Yes, I am sore tonight. I removed a 21 X 21 foot wood deck about 10 years old from the back of my house today, and used the '65 McCulloch 250 that I bought last summer to do most of the work. To say that the saw made quick work of the deck with its 24 inch bar would be an understatement. I ripped out the deck because we are going to put in a pool.
And I'm 46 years old as well, 6'1" and 150 pounds. I cut the deck up, then broke it apart with a 16 pound sledge hammer. Then I piled the mess up about 20 feet away.
To say that I am a bit sore tonight would be a bit of an understatement! :msp_scared:
Damn, I am not getting any younger. When I was in college I was the same size and used to do this work every day during the summers and never felt a thing afterwards. Tonight I can barely walk~ :msp_angry:
Anyway, when I was cutting the 2 X 6 boards with the saw, I found that if I went from end to end and separated the surface boards in half between the lower supports, I could easily break them apart with the sledge hammer. What concerned me about doing this was the internal temperature of the saw. It took the saw about 3 minutes of full power running to cut across the 21 feet of 2 inch thick PT wood in very good shape.
Is it a good idea to let a saw like this run for three minutes straight at 100% power?
Two-stroke engines have to have very low compression and very rich mixtures in order to keep the temperature of the internal parts within safe limits; Due to the fact that the piston is heated EVERY single time it reaches TDC, this type of engine tends to run extremely hot.
I'm familiar with aircraft turbofan engines such as the Pratt & Whitney PT6, JT8D, JT9, PW2037, the GE CF6, and the Rolls Royce RB211 aircraft engines, and they all have 5 minute limitations, along with "surge" limitations of 2 minutes or less. Can anyone think of a "limitation" on a chainsaw engine such as this?
The saw in question runs CORRECTLY. It takes 10 pulls to start, but once it gets going, it pulls like HELL. And when you release the throttle and set it down, it sits on the ground spinning in circles from the vibration...idling beautifully. Why? Well, I'll tell you why: Mastermind rebuilt this saw last year, that's why!
Mastermind: There is no substitute!
[He should make an avatar with the word "Mastermind" across the top of a Porsche symbol] Heh-
Anyway, shameless plug aside.... The saw, when it was cutting that wood, was varying between "four cycling" and a strong two cycle scream, meaning that it was running on the rich side, which is what you want. The saw ran great until I cut into a support and hit some concrete, INSTANTLY damaging the chain. It wouldn't cut ANYTHING after that! Guess I have to get the round files out and try to make it better.
In any case, what do you think about running a saw long and hard like this?
Thanx!
T
