Ripping chain grinding questions

[vtfireman85]

I found one very poor condition ripping chain that fits my 28” bar. The half teeth were nearly full and the full teeth were nearly filed off. The rakers were all over the place. I wish i had taken a picture of the chain before grinding. But in the photo you can see the left side teeth are ground and the right aren’t yet. I took them all back to be even and set them at 10 degrees and the rakers to .025 I realize this chain is spanked, but i had it and I can’t get a new one readily. I have some cruddy black walnut to do so this might be good to bugger up on that. Also I tried to take raker photos.
Please advise on how i can improve on my technique.

 

[Woodslasher]

@BobL

 

[Mad Professor]

WTF?

left side cutters are 1/2 gone/ground off, and gullets are not cleaned out. Right side looks like they have not seen a file in a while.

You need to waste a lot of metal/cutter on the right to get cutter lengths even, fix the gullets, and set all the rakers.

That done chain should cut OK. I use my milling chains until the cutters get so filed down, they break off. Then the chain gets tossed.

Not sure if I've asked, where in S Vt are you? I have a place in Bennington Co. I miss Billy Bratcher/the old time chainsaw shop on Gage St.

 

[Lightning Performance]

Your depth gauges need to go down near 0.045 possibly more. The scratchers or broken cutters tend to do more scoring and less chip clearing.

I'd buy a decent used chain local if you can find one and fix that up.

 

[vtfireman85]

WTF?

left side cutters are 1/2 gone/ground off, and gullets are not cleaned out. Right side looks like they have not seen a file in a while.

You need to waste a lot of metal/cutter on the right to get cutter lengths even, fix the gullets, and set all the rakers.

That done chain should cut OK. I use my milling chains until the cutters get so filed down, they break off. Then the chain gets tossed.

Not sure if I've asked, where in S Vt are you? I have a place in Bennington Co. I miss Billy Bratcher/the old time chainsaw shop on Gage St.

Its all the same chain, i sharpened the left side before i took a picture. I suspect it was a used chain that came when dad bought his first 28” bar who knows what what somebody was thinking? I live in Dorset now, i am from Mount Tabor.

Your depth gauges need to go down near 0.045 possibly more. The scratchers or broken cutters tend to do more scoring and less chip clearing.

I'd buy a decent used chain local if you can find one and fix that up.

So because it’s ripping chain the rakers go farther than usual?

 

[Lightning Performance]

Its all the same chain, i sharpened the left side before i took a picture. I suspect it was a used chain that came when dad bought his first 28” bar who knows what what somebody was thinking? I live in Dorset now, i am from Mount Tabor.

So because it’s ripping chain the rakers go farther than usual?

Yes but that isn't the why.
Your angle of attack will be too shallow to get any bite.

@BobL

 

[Mad Professor]

Its all the same chain, i sharpened the left side before i took a picture. I suspect it was a used chain that came when dad bought his first 28” bar who knows what what somebody was thinking? I live in Dorset now, i am from Mount Tabor.

So because it’s ripping chain the rakers go farther than usual?

Did you need to take that much off the left side cutters to get an edge? You need to clean those gullets out.

I've fished big branch brook on Mt Tabor. Good hunting too.

 

[vtfireman85]

When I started, both left and right looked the same. Scratchers were long and the chisels were short, I found the shortest chisel tooth and sharpened it and set the rest to it.

 

[Lightning Performance]

When I started, both left and right looked the same. Scratchers were long and the chisels were short, I found the shortest chisel tooth and sharpened it and set the rest to it.

If you click on the "Bobl" link and then click on the links in his signature line it will become clear about depth gauge heights.

 

[vtfireman85]

From Granberg it is 2-4 weeks for processing. Anywhere else to order a 92dl 3/8x.058?

 

[TomW]

Baileys lists that chain as their style 38RP

 

[TRTermite]

From Granberg it is 2-4 weeks for processing. Anywhere else to order a 92dl 3/8x.058?

Flea Buy . BobL is "EXTREMELY" informative in his thread. Early posters here saved me the trouble of telling you a bunch. I have yet to Mill with a chain saw but will soon so I have been reading and would advise you to go to his thread in the Chainsaw milling forum. (Hope I phrased that right) He states that most of his ripping chains start out as regular cutting chains and gradually sharpens them to 10 degrees. and as Lightning mentioned depth of rakers is well defined and he "EVEN HAS PICTURES" for Fellas with the mind of me. Others have chipped in their 10 cents so don't be bashful and comment on what you question and learn. So contribute for the rest of us. Good Luck I'll follow this thread to hopefully learn from others input.

 

[huskihl]

For what it’s worth, a ripping chain isn’t necessary to rip with. A sharp standard chain is actually considerably faster. Milling chain is designed to leave a smoother cut. If I were planing the boards, or if the finish didn’t matter, I would use a standard chain

 

[Zero_sum]

WTF?

left side cutters are 1/2 gone/ground off, and gullets are not cleaned out. Right side looks like they have not seen a file in a while.

You need to waste a lot of metal/cutter on the right to get cutter lengths even, fix the gullets, and set all the rakers.

That done chain should cut OK. I use my milling chains until the cutters get so filed down, they break off. Then the chain gets tossed.

Not sure if I've asked, where in S Vt are you? I have a place in Bennington Co. I miss Billy Bratcher/the old time chainsaw shop on Gage St.

I'm in bennington County myself. Billy is enjoying retirement so far, I spoke with him a few weeks ago & he is doing well. I miss his shop as well.

 

[link]

I found one very poor condition ripping chain that fits my 28” bar. The half teeth were nearly full and the full teeth were nearly filed off. The rakers were all over the place. I wish i had taken a picture of the chain before grinding. But in the photo you can see the left side teeth are ground and the right aren’t yet. I took them all back to be even and set them at 10 degrees and the rakers to .025 I realize this chain is spanked, but i had it and I can’t get a new one readily. I have some cruddy black walnut to do so this might be good to bugger up on that. Also I tried to take raker photos.
Please advise on how i can improve on my technique.

Yes the rakers are all over the place. I would recommend a proper chain sharpener - it will do the rakers too.
You have one wheel for the sharpening (that will need regular dressing to get rid of the steel particles), and you have one wheel for adjusting the raker height - that is pre-shaped with a diamond tool to your preferred shape.

I have a bowl of water and a wet cloth in my left hand that is used about once every second.
The rakers don't need it, but the tooth plating does.

 

[vtfireman85]

Yes the rakers are all over the place. I would recommend a proper chain sharpener - it will do the rakers too.
You have one wheel for the sharpening (that will need regular dressing to get rid of the steel particles), and you have one wheel for adjusting the raker height - that is pre-shaped with a diamond tool to your preferred shape.

I have a bowl of water and a wet cloth in my left hand that is used about once every second.
The rakers don't need it, but the tooth plating does.

I have a raker wheel for this grinder, the instructions are a little vague for setting height. I can figure out setting the depth stop easy enough but as far as appropriate angles it doesn’t do much for information.

 

[huskihl]

I have a raker wheel for this grinder, the instructions are a little vague for setting height. I can figure out setting the depth stop easy enough but as far as appropriate angles it doesn’t do much for information.

Set the swivel at 0 and tilt the head 10° with a flat wheel. You can keep it flat or eventually the depth gauges will wear a rounded profile into the wheel. I actually leave the rounded profile in the wheel

 

[link]

I have a raker wheel for this grinder, the instructions are a little vague for setting height. I can figure out setting the depth stop easy enough but as far as appropriate angles it doesn’t do much for information.

As for the raker wheel here is only the angle of the whee that you prefer. According to the instructions and common sence - you adjust the raker wheel profile to a an arch. - according to the angel setting.

It don't need to be an arch, might just be a flat angle that don't catch the edge.
Look at the raker profile, an arch is luxury - but a flat angle might be just as good- like 15 degrees.

 

[link]

 

[vtfireman85]

Thanks for the pictures! The chain stop on your grinder looks better than mine. Mine is a timber tuff (TSC) was a Christmas present. I wanted an Oregon. I think this is a copy but certain Aspects aren’t great.