ripping chain

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Universe

ArboristSite Operative
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Can you guys point me to information on how to make a ripping chain? I'm using a 353 for trail building and I rip lots of small Wester Red Cedar and Yellow Cedar logs for bike trails. I'd like to try making one at home. Also the tools needed. Thanks.
 
Buy a chain from baileys you will be very happy with it you might also want to buy a minny mill for your saw
 
There is no real big difference between rip chain and regular chain, the top plate angle is filed different 10 degrees that is it, you can use the same files as you would with regular chain. JMO, rip chain doesn't cut any better than regular chain.

Larry
 
Ax-man said:
There is no real big difference between rip chain and regular chain, the top plate angle is filed different 10 degrees that is it, you can use the same files as you would with regular chain. JMO, rip chain doesn't cut any better than regular chain.

Larry

Ok, so in this case its not a huge deal. Thanks for the info.
 
Ripping chain is intended for use on portable chainsaw mills (ie Alaskan mills), and should never be used for crosscutting (severe kickback potential). If you are doing crosscutting as well as ripping, I would not go to ripping chain unless you like swapping chains often.
 
i just looked at some of your pics, are you using the husky for making those boards? if so, you might want to get a ripping chain and a mini-mill.
 
How wide are these ramps?

gap1.jpg
 
Universe!
Really cool pics, Great to know my new 353 will cut wood like that,but
you wouldn't catch my old ars* standing on your ramps much less on bike,
and I used to ride Moto-Cross 25yrs ago and was CraZZZY too. :laugh:
Think I'll purchase Bailey's Beam Machine though! www.baileys-online.com

Looks Great!
Mike E.
 
Look, if you're biking on that stuff, you don't need to worry about a little safety item like ripping chain and kick back. Blood is blood. No pain, some gain.
As much work as you're doing I'd say carry two chains. Rip for a couple tanks then switch and cut to the lengths needed.
But all kidding aside, when you're using that ripping chain, be very careful where that tip of the bar goes. Your thumb placement, not cutting when fatigued etc.
Loggers sometimes refer to an oversharp or chain intended for ripping as "hungry". Don't let it eat you.
 
Oregon 95R

If you are looking for a direct Ripping chain, Oregon offers 95R chain. It is 325/050 which is what the 353 runs stock. Another (non-ripping) option for that saw in 325/050 is 33LG from Oregon. It is a Yellow (non-safety) chain, works well. That is what I run on my 346xp and what we sell for buyers who are not 'first-time' and want better performance with their saw.
 
Bumping an old thread here. I just moved back to BC after a year in Grande Prairie Alberta ( i don't reccomend it ). Does anyone know of a mini mill for the 353? The amount of cedar where I work begs me to mill some boards for trailwork. Thanks.
 
those are some pretty sweet north shore stunts.

I've built some myself, what are you riding?

better be Norco or Kona
 
http://store.baileys-online.com/cgi-bin/baileys/521?mv_session_id=KLDzfC9t&product_sku=46555

http://store.baileys-online.com/cgi-bin/baileys/491?mv_session_id=KLDzfC9t&product_sku=G777

The first is the true mini-mill, where the bar runs vertically. Nice companion to larger alaskan mills to square off logs. The second is the small alaskan mill, which is like the larger mills, but only has one upright.

I got some granberg rip chain along with my mill, and it didn't cut nearly as smoothly or as quickly as full comp full chisel sharpened like I buck rounds with.
 

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