Rmc3

[jhellwig]

Since Stihl insists that dealers put this low kickback stuff on new saws they should give instructions on how to sharpen it. My question is on the goofy little anti kickback thing next to the raker. Is it supposed to be lowered also when the raker is lowered? And if so, how in the world do you do it?


The chain looks like it is a good chain design. I don't see how the goofy little drive link is supposed to do anything to reduce kickback. It looks like a far better chain than RM2 though.

I am just glad that yellow labels are not :censored: here and all the places that sell them have very few green labels to be found.

 

[Lakeside53]

Just use a depth gauge like you normally would - If anything sticks up, file it off. Round the front to follow the profile. Stihl has a free booklet called "sharp advise to chainsaws owners" - on their website also.

The RSC3 cuts 99% as good as RSC...

 

[SawTroll]

That little ramp is a copy of an old Oregon design, that works very well on Oregon chains (LP, VP, BP etc) - the jury is still out on the Stihl version.

If it works like the Oregon version, it slows the cut down nil to nothing, compared to the larger rakers without the ramp (RS, RM, LG etc). The combined size of the raker and ramp isn't much larger than the raker alone on the RM etc....

Carlton also has a version of it, but that ramps looks a bit larger to me, but I am not sure.

When the rakers get low enough, you automatically will file down the ramp with the raker - hard to avoid doing that......

 

[RiverRat2]

As usual Saw Troll nails it,,,

That little ramp is a copy of an old Oregon design, that works very well on Oregon chains (LP, VP, BP etc) - the jury is still out on the Stihl version.

If it works like the Oregon version, it slows the cut down nil to nothing, compared to the larger rakers without the ramp (RS, RM, LG etc). The combined size of the raker and ramp isn't much larger than the raker alone on the RM etc....

Carlton also has a version of it, but that ramps looks a bit larger to me, but I am not sure.

When the rakers get low enough, you automatically will file down the ramp with the raker - hard to avoid doing that......

MERRY CHRISTMAS Saw Troll and Saw Witch and Happy new Year from East Texas!!!!!!

 

[SawTroll]

MERRY CHRISTMAS Saw Troll and Saw Witch and Happy new Year from East Texas!!!!!!

Thank you Riverrat, the same to you and your family, from the Witch and me!!!

 

[maveric944]

i just started using the stihl picco micro chain and it is much better than the oregon type 91 chain i was using before, much faster cleaner cut with less effort required, was sold a stihl depth guage to set the bump straps,, havent had to do this yet as the chain stays sharper for much longer. its used on a small mac 335 with 14" bar,,don't laugh,, my first nearly new saw and i love it.. it was also nearly half the price of the Oregon chain.

merry xmas guys,, best wishes mav

 

[jhellwig]

When the rakers get low enough, you automatically will file down the ramp with the raker - hard to avoid doing that......

I see. I just was wondering that since it was already lower than the raker if it needed to be lowered at the same rate to keep its effectiveness.

 

[Stihl #1]

The idea behind this style of reduced kick back chain is that the little tail kicks out when the chain goes around the end of the bar, and reduces the energy created if the upper quadrant of the bar contacts something. While cutting, the tail lays down and should not get in the way, although as the cutter is sharpened it gets lower. The STIHL filing kits have the right tool, with a wide slot, to set the depth gauge and the tie strap at the same time.
The new chains with a 3 in the marketing number are the third generation of reduced kick back chain, that use the drive link to provide the reduction in energy crearted in a kick back event. The same depth gauge tool will work on them also.
The comfort chains, with a C in the marketing number, are more sensitive to having the depth gauges set right, and when you check them be sure to push down on the tool to rock the tail of the cutter down to make sure the depth gauge is being checked properly.
The comfort chain cuts smoother because the cutter rocks back as it bites into the wood. It really works well too. Try switching back and forth between the 2 on 2 saws and it is very noticeable.