rock climbing / big whipper

[darkstar]

http://www.bdel.com/vids/fall.mov..... check this whipage out ...this is trad climbing if yall want ill post up another link with a huge fall sport climbing it also shows the guy using his mouth to help make the clips ....tell me what yalls thinks

 

[darkstar]

is the link not working ?

 

[MasterBlaster]

It takes awhile to load up.

 

[rbtree]

looks like a 40-50 footer, based on free fall time....nice, hard thin fingers dihedral...5.11+ maybe...?

My worst fall was a 40 foot bouncing fall, which badly sprained my ankle..got a heli rescue. Two or three pieces of protection pulled, I had one big hexentic left which held and kept the fall from being 60-80 feet. I still landed near my belayer.

We were off route at the start of a 20 pitch 2000 foot face, Dragontail Peak near Leavenworth, Wa in the North Cascades.. only had to rapp off one pitch, my partner hiked out 7 miles to the car and to get help---25 years ago, long before cell phones. We were climbing with packs and wearing mountain boots, planning to bivouac...

 

[darkstar]

your rt. it is a thin fingers dihedral ... the tombstone eventually went at near 5.13d ... 200 foot enduro pitch .... hey cool to meet another tree climbing / rockclimber ... there are a bunch of us here in dixie dark

 

[rbtree]

13d, wow....Well, I'm a bit out of touch...quit rock in 85, unfortunately....

I can see how I was off at guessing 11+; he was definitely extended...tough to stop and place pro....and a 200 foot pitch at that, amazing....

Hard cracks are so dyno versus the finesse of many face climbs...I preferred cracks...of course climb shoes were pretty neanderthal back then.

My best climb was the 20 pitch 5.10 Beckey-Chounaird on South Howser Tower in the Bugaboos....did her in a day, and the last 3 raps in the dark. Simply awesome.

 

[Lumberjack]

It looks like your belay shoulda let out some more rope, it appeared as though you were fighting it the last step, and then you slipped.

I aint sure how I would like trad climbing, top roping perhaps . I know, I am a wuss.

 

[John Paul Sanborn]

I aint sure how I would like trad climbing, top roping perhaps . I know, I am a wuss.

Know your limits, I never lead a climb. My best is the Durance at Devils Tower on the way out to see RB and Ox for the ISA show in WA.

Devils Lake here in WI has a lot of great short pitches, supposed to be the most climbed area in the MidWest. It's been a good long time since I went there too.

That vid was a great fall, good reflexes and training. I woulda busted my head if I could have hauled my #230 up that little crack.

 

[kf_tree]

one of last summers climb in peru...

 

[darkstar]

nice ... [ mountain action huh ]... hey in the vid that is dean potter .... he holds the solo record on el cap as well ... also possibly the first 14a finger seam done in the world .... he freaking soloed the nose on el cap in about 2 hours 2900 feet or 30 pitches ... he actually free soloed many pitches carrying a rope on his back and using solo aid with the rope on the hard pitches ....

 

[rbtree]

Hey Ken, that face looks nice for a crazy two planker to take on!!

Ah, darkstart, now ya tell me...Potter's feats are amazing.

Including slack lining across space to Lost Arrow!

 

[kf_tree]

we took the ridge route.....the altitude really beat us up. peak was 19,800. an israeli team went up the face, but they were already there for 6 weeks.

 

[darkstar]

rbtree i notice you are in seattle ... ive done liberty ridge twice really nice route but the first time i got caught in a storm rt. below the lower summit stuck in the cravasse ... we went 7 days with out food .... really nasty conditions up there lots of freezing rain my partener nearly died crossing the saddle in like 60 mph winds ...it was like facing a sand blaster .... the second time we did it it was cake .... just super fun and really pretty ......
hey did you hear about deans base jump seriously his shoot failed and he actually grabed a fixed line and rode it down burning his hands really bad but saved his own ass ... he was jumping into a pit somewhere ... the photographers line was hanging within reach .... unbeliavable

 

[rbtree]

holee mackerall!! Potter is superhuman!! Years ago, Jean Boivin, at the time the world's top skieur de la extreme, from Chamonix, died base jumping Angel Falls. His wife went first, and they heard on the radio that she had problems. He hastily jumped--and didn't make it. Tragic. She was fine.

Phew, 7 days holed up on Rainier--sounds like no fun at all..
I believe I heard of three deaths there in the last few days....
I did Liberty Ridge back in 1980 or so..about the time it was first skiied.

Twice I tried to ski the Kautz route.. a good friend and his party skiied what they thought was the Mowich Face, but actually did the Edmunds Headwall. I have other firends that, just in the last four years, have done many incredible ski lines in the Cascades, many with cruxes well over 55 degrees.

 

[BigUglySquirrel]

You guys are all nuts. You only get so many falls before fate gets jealous and you whopper-heads are burnin' em up on climbing a rock? What do ya do when you get to the top of it? You can't cut it down! Seriously though, I don't climb rock...probably never will (I'm in Ohio...we've got big piles of dirt..not real mountains) but I've got a lot of respect for you fellas...even though yer all bat$#!t crazy!

 

[rbtree]

Just checked the news. No one dead on Rainier, but, recently, 4 had fallen into a crevasse. They were all rescued, hurt but alive.

However, rockfall in the North Cascades jsut killed 3 Mountaineer instructors. Dang

http://www.kgw.com/sharedcontent/APStories/stories/D8B9BC0O0.html

 

[darkstar]

bummer ... rock fall sux