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TM, you hit the nail on the head, "Gear Freaks"

ART Friction devices: Sport, twin, and the Art Lanyard.

Having options is the only way to go. Fluid and flexible.
 
You'all are purty funny with all that bling bling. What is the percentage of work you do that is removal and how much is trimming, pruning etc.? What is the new stuff you use on removals, a little bit open to new gear that can help me slay 'em faster.
 
I would say 90% of my work (money wise) is removals.

The gear I use depends on the tree and its situation. I may use spikes, lanyard and my climbing line as a lanyard to go up a pine, skin it and blow the top (short pine, under 50'). Or I might use my ART friction saver, pantin, 2 lanyards, climbing line, rigging lines, natural and false crotches, and a porty.

Recently I have been wearing my spikes more, on some it was about the only way to do it, others have been done with spikes to make it easier than just rope climbing.

My basic setup for any tree is my lanyard (around 15' long or so, with a distel), handsaw (zubat), climbing line (with VT), and normally my 200T. If I am not wearing spikes you can bet my pantin is on my right leg as well.

On my saddle (ness) I have a Sherrill ditty bag on the left to hold whatever I need, and two biners on the right to hold my saw and zubat. My TIP is made up of a petzl paw through the delta link that holds my saddle together. If I am spiking with lanyards only I will not put the paw in.
 
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I do about 10% removals, but still Ljack's kit is interesting. I'd like to try a longer lanyard and use a 2nd rope less. I just got my sherrill catalog yesterday so I'll look up the petzl paw. zubat, 200t, pantin all familiar; not such a big dif tween old and new looking at it this way.
 
im 50/50 t/ds, fine prunes,i pruned a large cherry tree today and took the liberty of keeping it in a proper shape(nice tree)customer then says she wants a discount as ive cut less off(she wanted a "lop"job on one perticular limb, lol)cut it back to the trunk and got the cheque :rolleyes: 10 t/ds tommorow.
 
I trimmed two small ash trees recently and the customer was a Big help. She took a huge load off my shoulders by telling me precisely which branches to trim right down to stuff smaller dia. than a pencil. I wanted to ask her if she tells the plumber how to work his plunger when she clogs the toilet up with used harpoons. The customer is always right.
 
a_lopa said:
(she wanted a "lop"job on one perticular limb, lol)
It'd be interesting to see a picture of that. Light Reduction may have worked for the client and the tree and you? Re clients micromanaging, that drives me crazy too.
 
treeseer said:
It'd be interesting to see a picture of that. Light Reduction may have worked for the client and the tree and you? Re clients micromanaging, that drives me crazy too.

actually it was my fault,she had one of those pyramid trees(topped by her gardener)underneath the limb,for some reaon she wants it to grow again.


light reduction wouldnt work for this lady,ive left a few gums at 20' for her to grow creaper over,sorry guy. cant and sick of educating people that dont want to know,if its plain stupid and you tell them its like "cool"lets do that!
 
a_lopa said:
ive left a few gums at 20' for her to grow creaper over
I've done that too, don't feel bad but don't get sick of educating either. info sheets highlighted will save time and frustration when dealing with the biologically challenged.
 
treeseer said:
I do about 10% removals, but still Ljack's kit is interesting. I'd like to try a longer lanyard and use a 2nd rope less. I just got my sherrill catalog yesterday so I'll look up the petzl paw. zubat, 200t, pantin all familiar; not such a big dif tween old and new looking at it this way.

vispec2front.gif


26269.jpg


That is basically my saddle when it was new, minus the gear loop and snap. The Paw goes into the delta link, which makes it much lower than if I had to use a biner to connect the paw. When I am climbing DdRT I put the spliced end of my climbing line in the first hole (closest to my body) and my hitch on the back hole. If I am useing 2 TIP in the front (4 connections) I will move my main hitch up one hole or two, and put the splice on the 2nd tie in in the back, with the hitch for the 2nd tie in normally in the D that the delta runs through on the leg strap-bridge.
 
The delta comes off every time I take it off. You have to step into the leg loops of course. Then pull up the leg loop strap, reach into my ditty bag and pull out the paw and delta and put it all together, after I set the friction buckle.

Great saddle Butch, glad you recommended it:)!
 
Aw come on Butch, refer to the pic:

vispec2front.gif


The small D on the leg strap bridge, and the two OD loops (from the sides of the saddle) held together with the delta link. Its really no big deal, and not a safety concern.
 
Naw not at all. It takes under a minute to get it out of the box I carry it in, get the paw and delta outta the ditty and have it ready to go. Kinda on auto pilot. Then the pantin and up I go!

If I had the stuff laid out I could probably do it in thirty seconds, but I normally put it on as I am giving orders and making the plan.
 
clearance said:
You'all are purty funny with all that bling bling. What is the percentage of work you do that is removal and how much is trimming, pruning etc.? What is the new stuff you use on removals, a little bit open to new gear that can help me slay 'em faster.

I seem to use more of the climbing bling when dead wooding or crown thinning where you have to get right out on limbs and use redirects and all the goods.

But in saying that only about 10% of the work i do is as above.

The thing is if you buy flash gear that you can use in every situation, is well worth getting. Eg lanyard with a positioner or lanyard with prussic and micro pulley etc
 

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