Rookie Boy needs advice

[Greener]

Hey all. I have been using a 192T for trimming and a 026 when I need a bit more bar when climbing. I have a job coming up where the tree stays pretty fat a good way up (still about 2-2 1/2 feet about 40 feet up). What saws do you all recommend when you need more than a 20" bar when off the ground?

 

[ropensaddle]

Hey all. I have been using a 192T for trimming and a 026 when I need a bit more bar when climbing. I have a job coming up where the tree stays pretty fat a good way up (still about 2-2 1/2 feet about 40 feet up). What saws do you all recommend when you need more than a 20" bar when off the ground?

Well first off, it can be done with that 20". It may not be highly productive but it can cut it. It get dicey recommending a new climber use anything larger in a high risk scenario. I sometimes use my 395 with 36" in a tree but rarely and I would rather pull my teeth with pliers.

 

[derwoodii]

066 with 24 inch bar is lite balanced and grunty enough for your task description.
However I urge you to get a experience climber to help you for that 1st big job.
Things canna go wrong fast hurt your billable hours and your health.
A contract guy could help you do the job with his saws, you'll get to watch n learn so next time you need not ask us.

 

[mic687]

Most of the time I use a 192 and a 270 in the tree and that will do about 90% of the cutting but for big stuff I have a 650. The 650 works great but it is a heavy powerful saw. I would like to get a 460 or 362 they are a little lighter and more user freindly in the tree.

 

[Treetom]

You may want to get some help on that one, Greener. I use a 200t with a 14" bar then switch over to a Husky 372 with a 24" bar on trees like you've described, in the bucket or climbing the tree. Thinking back, when I had a new climber come in to help on a 100' white pine, he did well with the 200t for limbing and topping the tree. When it came to blocking the trunk with the 372, he slowed down enough that I went up myself and did that part. Maybe you're ready, I don't know yer history. Good luck.

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[Rickytree]

You may want to get some help on that one, Greener. I use a 200t with a 14" bar then switch over to a Husky 372 with a 24" bar on trees like you've described, in the bucket or climbing the tree. Thinking back, when I had a new climber come in to help on a 100' white pine, he did well with the 200t for limbing and topping the tree. When it came to blocking the trunk with the 372, he slowed down enough that I went up myself and did that part. Maybe you're ready, I don't know yer history. Good luck.

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I agree. the 372xp is a great saw. I have 6 or so and love them all. So So much. They will be able to take a 20" or 24" or 28" or 30". The smaller the faster. This way you can use it to fall trees as well. BRILLIANT!! What I do is I find a saw that I like and stick with it so if something happens you have parts. Man I am a GENIUS! I hope I spelt that rite.

 

[squad143]

However I urge you to get a experience climber to help you for that 1st big job.
Things canna go wrong fast hurt your billable hours and your health.
A contract guy could help you do the job with his saws, you'll get to watch n learn so next time you need not ask us.

:agree2:

Failing that you can always rent a larger saw. I like a 460 with a 24" bar (a little tip heavy) but not that noticable when your in a tree.

One thing you will notice is the weight and power compared to your 026. You may want some experience with the 460 before you bring it up into the tree.


Hey derwoodii, I hope those floods are far from ya.

 

[Greener]

066 with 24 inch bar is lite balanced and grunty enough for your task description.
However I urge you to get a experience climber to help you for that 1st big job.
Things canna go wrong fast hurt your billable hours and your health.
A contract guy could help you do the job with his saws, you'll get to watch n learn so next time you need not ask us.

Why not a 36 with the same bar? Less weight and enough torque.

 

[Greener]

Most of the time I use a 192 and a 270 in the tree and that will do about 90% of the cutting but for big stuff I have a 650. The 650 works great but it is a heavy powerful saw. I would like to get a 460 or 362 they are a little lighter and more user freindly in the tree.

Ok thanks.

 

[derwoodii]

Why not a 36 with the same bar? Less weight and enough torque.

Your right a 36 or 46 would do it. I was thinkin along the lines of a saw that will fore fill all your future needs. I was a 2 saw bloke for many years 26 and 66/64 was all I used. Happy up a tree with a 26, as never kinda liked top handle buzz boxz. The 66 would do all I wanted, any bigger task gave it away to others with the crew n gear.
My apologies for my tone before, any time you want advice please ask as happy to help. Its just worry tell'en a bloke over the web how to diffuse a bomb, if ya know what I mean.

Floods are far from me here, but very bad for those close.

 

[Greener]

You may want to get some help on that one, Greener. I use a 200t with a 14" bar then switch over to a Husky 372 with a 24" bar on trees like you've described, in the bucket or climbing the tree. Thinking back, when I had a new climber come in to help on a 100' white pine, he did well with the 200t for limbing and topping the tree. When it came to blocking the trunk with the 372, he slowed down enough that I went up myself and did that part. Maybe you're ready, I don't know yer history. Good luck.

ATTACH=CONFIG]168302[/ATTACH]

How exactly did he have trouble with the bigger blocks? It's the same concept as less diameter as long as you have more bar.

 

[Greener]

Well first off, it can be done with that 20". It may not be highly productive but it can cut it. It get dicey recommending a new climber use anything larger in a high risk scenario. I sometimes use my 395 with 36" in a tree but rarely and I would rather pull my teeth with pliers.

Roppensaddle. Thanks for the feedback. Did you ever have back strain from using the larger saws (395) in the tree?

 

[Greener]

066 with 24 inch bar is lite balanced and grunty enough for your task description.
However I urge you to get a experience climber to help you for that 1st big job.
Things canna go wrong fast hurt your billable hours and your health.
A contract guy could help you do the job with his saws, you'll get to watch n learn so next time you need not ask us.

Derwoodii. I forgot to say thanks for that other advice on the hollow cottonwood (not sure if you remember). I took it and let a more experienced faller do it, which was good. I actually had to get assertive with the homeowner about getting someone more experienced. This job I have now, though, is a no-brainer. It is just a matter of chunking more or less length, whichever is most comfortable, proportionate to the width of the trunk at that particular point in the tree. The best approach with this height and width with a softwood tree (grand fir), is the ultra lite-weight 036 with a 24" bar. Your advice was good on the bar length (though I have cut comparable diameter accurately with a 20" bar from the ground, being up in the tree is a different concept). But I disagree on the need for power. I once owned a 66 and it was good but it is better for felling from the ground and I am primarily a climber. Any 44 is plenty for my offthe ground work. You make a good point on the balance of that particular 066 saw/bar combo, but it's too much weight for what is needed for this tree. My drop zone is pretty big (about 30' X 30'). I don't mean to sound arrogant but I was just looking for ideas about saw preference rather than advice on how to approach this job. Thanks again.

 

[Greener]

Your right a 36 or 46 would do it. I was thinkin along the lines of a saw that will fore fill all your future needs. I was a 2 saw bloke for many years 26 and 66/64 was all I used. Happy up a tree with a 26, as never kinda liked top handle buzz boxz. The 66 would do all I wanted, any bigger task gave it away to others with the crew n gear.
My apologies for my tone before, any time you want advice please ask as happy to help. Its just worry tell'en a bloke over the web how to diffuse a bomb, if ya know what I mean.

Floods are far from me here, but very bad for those close.

No sweat. I just responded to your other post again with new thoughts. I appreciate your concern about too much encourgement for less experienced climbers cutting their heads (or other parts) off 50' up. For my needs 36-44 is about good for now. Down the road I may need more. I like to be high (pardon the pun) up and top. I try to leave the heavy felling to others. One question: give me a example of a "real-life" difference between a 46 and 66. It'd be much appreciated.

 

[Greener]

:agree2:

Failing that you can always rent a larger saw. I like a 460 with a 24" bar (a little tip heavy) but not that noticable when your in a tree.

One thing you will notice is the weight and power compared to your 026. You may want some experience with the 460 before you bring it up into the tree.


Hey derwoodii, I hope those floods are far from ya.

I got a ton of good feedback here. The 46 will eventually be part of my collection in my philosophy of 26/36/46. I decided to go with a 36 and 24" bar. Thanks.

 

[derwoodii]

. One question: give me a example of a "real-life" difference between a 46 and 66. It'd be much appreciated.

I not used a 46 only a 44 which I found not powerful enough for its cost/weight. All say the 46 a great saw and likely what you need. For me when ma 26 ran outta puff the 64/66 picked up the job.
So 2 saws did all required for me, others may have 3 or 4 but I was happy with just the 2. I've not got a big saw now, I canna get one easy but like you leave heavy loggin to others.

 

[ropensaddle]

Roppensaddle. Thanks for the feedback. Did you ever have back strain from using the larger saws (395) in the tree?

I have had back strain since 14 so yes. The tree was 54" across 52' up the tree and I was dropping 45 foot of stick that had 30' of top all ready pieced out. I have used it a couple more times since but that was the most memorable!
It is not every day that a 395 36" 52 foot up won't make the cut without going to both sides. Anyway I am not looking forward to the next one like it!

 

[Greener]

Wasn't as fat as I thought

I know this thread is old news now but thanks for all the feed back y'all. Still alive after that job and she came down where I wanted. I may chunked off a bit more length at a time that is advised but live and learn. Didn't need the 36 till I got on the ground after all (the 026 did it).

 

[alpineman]

Hey all. I have been using a 192T for trimming and a 026 when I need a bit more bar when climbing. I have a job coming up where the tree stays pretty fat a good way up (still about 2-2 1/2 feet about 40 feet up). What saws do you all recommend when you need more than a 20" bar when off the ground?

I would use your current chainsaw. If you have a sharp chain, it will only take you a few more minutes to use the 026. If you are going to step up, a 440 or 460 with a 25-28 inch bar would be the best next step.

 

[Greener]

I would use your current chainsaw. If you have a sharp chain, it will only take you a few more minutes to use the 026. If you are going to step up, a 440 or 460 with a 25-28 inch bar would be the best next step.

Alpineman, you were right on. The 026 worked pretty well on it. Luckily, after I chunked it down to about 40 feet, I had a rope-puller help when I fell it. Thanks.