ropeshield

[imagineero]

I hope you've got a good hard hat ;-)

 

[arborjockey]

Aye where's Treepeedo he has a pic of one of those for his profile shot.

 

[TreeAce]

I will be trying out my ropeshield tomorrow. Also gonna try out some dynaglide. I will let ya'll know how it goes.

 

[TreeAce]

I think the ropeshield works pretty darn good. My only complaint is that I have a heck of a time feeding the throw line throw the tip and out the bottom. I woulda never had guessed that could be an issue. Is there a trick I am missing? I dont understand why the passage is like a narrow tube and not like a cone shaped cavity or something. As soon as the throwline gets alittle frayed its a beech to get through that hole. But once its set up i am sure its a big help

 

[beastmaster]

I've been following this thread with interest. I hate it when I make the perfect shot or throw with the throwline, but the rope gets caught up in some thing. It seems to happen at least once a week. I've tried every trick to make it go throw some times.
I like the concept of the end cone, but I think some kind of flexible material over the end would maybe do a better job?
I saw on ''you tube'', somewhere, they put a redhot nail throu the end of the line to make a small hole, then just threaded the throwline through it right at the tip. I've been meaning to give it a try.

 

[imagineero]

I think the ropeshield works pretty darn good. My only complaint is that I have a heck of a time feeding the throw line throw the tip and out the bottom. I woulda never had guessed that could be an issue. Is there a trick I am missing? I dont understand why the passage is like a narrow tube and not like a cone shaped cavity or something. As soon as the throwline gets alittle frayed its a beech to get through that hole. But once its set up i am sure its a big help

Somewhat in line with beastmaster's post, have a go at using heat. You see guys sometimes trying to melt the ends of their ropes with a lighter or similar. That's not going anywhere fast. The only way to cut synthetic cordage is with a hot rope knife. You can shell out some $$$ or just use what you've got. Grab an old xacto knife/razorblade or even an old kitchen knife. Get your rope ready. Heat your tool over your gas stove until it turns red. Now cut your rope with it. Use the blunt side - you're actually melting it rather than cutting it. Works great with ropes of all sizes, but you may have to reheat the knife 2 or 3 times when you're getting up to 3/4". leaves a perfect seared join with no loose fibres.

I cut a lot of my ropes on an angle - 45 degrees or so. Then I taper down the outside edges a little more using the side of the knife. Makes threading them through blocks that can't be opened real easy. You can use the side of a hot knife for maintenance on your ropes too. If you've got cut strands on your ropes or pole straps, use the side to sear them, then squash them with your finger. They wont fray. For your throwline, you can cut it on an angle, then tidy up the burr with the side of the knife. You'll love it.

Shaun

 

[TreeAce]

Somewhat in line with beastmaster's post, have a go at using heat. You see guys sometimes trying to melt the ends of their ropes with a lighter or similar. That's not going anywhere fast. The only way to cut synthetic cordage is with a hot rope knife. You can shell out some $$$ or just use what you've got. Grab an old xacto knife/razorblade or even an old kitchen knife. Get your rope ready. Heat your tool over your gas stove until it turns red. Now cut your rope with it. Use the blunt side - you're actually melting it rather than cutting it. Works great with ropes of all sizes, but you may have to reheat the knife 2 or 3 times when you're getting up to 3/4". leaves a perfect seared join with no loose fibres.

I cut a lot of my ropes on an angle - 45 degrees or so. Then I taper down the outside edges a little more using the side of the knife. Makes threading them through blocks that can't be opened real easy. You can use the side of a hot knife for maintenance on your ropes too. If you've got cut strands on your ropes or pole straps, use the side to sear them, then squash them with your finger. They wont fray. For your throwline, you can cut it on an angle, then tidy up the burr with the side of the knife. You'll love it.

Shaun

cool. Thanks I will try that. I did notice that cutting the throw line made a clean end but only for a moment then it frayed. Burning the end with a lighter just made it mushroom. didnt matter if i burned right after cutting or not. the hot knife thing makes good sense.

 

[Treepedo]

I think the ropeshield works pretty darn good. My only complaint is that I have a heck of a time feeding the throw line throw the tip and out the bottom. I woulda never had guessed that could be an issue. Is there a trick I am missing? I dont understand why the passage is like a narrow tube and not like a cone shaped cavity or something. As soon as the throwline gets alittle frayed its a beech to get through that hole. But once its set up i am sure its a big help

I crazy glue the end of the throw line or wax it up with a crayon.
Crazy glue is nice cause it stiffens it up like the end of a shoelace and makes it easier to
tie knots. A nice firm end to the throwline for passing around and through for your bowline is all
that is missing.
Hope this helps!:msp_smile:

 

[Treepedo]

Aye where's Treepeedo he has a pic of one of those for his profile shot.

Sorry it has taken so long.

Here are few images to help make sense of it all.
View attachment 245484 View attachment 245485

RS will go, slip and slide in any direction :biggrinbounce2: You can even lube it up
to penetrate the tightest of crotches(to a limit) or bypass other obstacles(flakes of bark, stub etc).

The RopeShield progressed to a full throw weight because
for me it just made sense to apply the RS advantages to a throw weight. Especially the retrieving
and isolating a TIP part.:msp_thumbup:

Heres a quick 3 minute vid. Sure is nice to see the snow again

RopeShield - YouTube

Thanks all for your interest.

Proudly independent! and Guaranteed for Life :msp_thumbup:

 

[imagineero]

[video=youtube;y6U_Vk_KGIg]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y6U_Vk_KGIg[/video]

 

[Treepedo]

I've been following this thread with interest. I hate it when I make the perfect shot or throw with the throwline, but the rope gets caught up in some thing. It seems to happen at least once a week. I've tried every trick to make it go throw some times.
I like the concept of the end cone, but I think some kind of flexible material over the end would maybe do a better job?
I saw on ''you tube'', somewhere, they put a redhot nail throu the end of the line to make a small hole, then just threaded the throwline through it right at the tip. I've been meaning to give it a try.

Both ideas have worked for me in the past.
Nothing is perfect but I wouldn't recommend the hole technique over any other becasue you need to get the hole as close to the tip of the rope as possible so there is less transition zone and swiveling that increase the size of the bump and that gives you less working room before it tears out. Placing the final half hitch or clove as close to the tip as possible with a a couple of rounds of tape will be the best to bump your rope past obtacles next to the RS.:msp_smile:

Eye on the end of your rope makes it all a bit easier but once again there is larger transition or bump/jam area.View attachment 245977

RopeShield is an improvement because it transitions from your throwline to the cone smoothly.
The bump or jam point is less than 2 to 3mm or the difference between the diameter of your throwline and the opening point of the nose cone.View attachment 245976

Best of luck!

 

[Treepedo]

New RopeArmor

View attachment 248156

RopeArmor’s new “RopeKnight Light”
Night or day this multi-purpose rope access throw weight device and system will illuminate. Made from transparent acrylic and contains a flashing LED for high visibility .
The “Light” is identical to the RopeKnight in design, form and function. A highly visible solution with LED lights and optimal geometric form allows for ease of movement for launching, isolating targets, positioning ropes, smooth over of knots and a pull handle at low level lighting/nighttime. Fly up and out of the throw ball dark ages. When tree work and infrastructure can’t wait for the sun to come up, you’ll be illuminated.

 

[jimbo21]

it look like a nice gadget, sure you can use a metal pencil... do it diy to try before!

 

[Treepedo]

Life is too short to throw an ugly bag.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&v=AzD6Ki4evZM&list=UUrryWlE1QulSV_gPHsBUh1Q

Cheers :msp_smile:

 

[Treepedo]

I think the ropeshield works pretty darn good. My only complaint is that I have a heck of a time feeding the throw line throw the tip and out the bottom. I woulda never had guessed that could be an issue. Is there a trick I am missing? I dont understand why the passage is like a narrow tube and not like a cone shaped cavity or something. As soon as the throwline gets alittle frayed its a beech to get through that hole. But once its set up i am sure its a big help

You can set this up "FASTattach" as a more permanent attachment. I am making one out of ss cable to see if it will help avoid limb wraps.
View attachment 281800
View attachment 281801
View attachment 281802

Here is the video showing both LONGgun Tech and FASTattach. 2 minutes
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oQVwoAHSvt0&list=UUrryWlE1QulSV_gPHsBUh1Q&index=7

The narrow tube is so that it can't be collapsed for those hard impacts.
Have to keep it tough cause it has LIFETiME Guarantee!

 

[Pelorus]

Sacrificing the end of a tubular aluminum fid (with a suitable ID) might help a line negotiate a tight crotch. Cut a couple of inches off the end, drill a throw line sized hole through the point, and Bob's yer uncle. Maybe.
Certainly not as nice as the real McCoy, and a standard throwbag would have to be used for initial line placement. A 1 -1/4 Fid in current WesSpur catalog is something like $17, and converting it into a rope cone should only take 5 minutes.

 

[Treepedo]

Sacrificing the end of a tubular aluminum fid (with a suitable ID) might help a line negotiate a tight crotch. Cut a couple of inches off the end, drill a throw line sized hole through the point, and Bob's yer uncle. Maybe.
Certainly not as nice as the real McCoy, and a standard throwbag would have to be used for initial line placement. A 1 -1/4 Fid in current WesSpur catalog is something like $17, and converting it into a rope cone should only take 5 minutes.

Could work for a few trick spots, but it is a wedge shape. Surveyor also suggested a Plumb bob and it also has a wedge shape.
Wedges get stuck and drives in hard into the crotch or the like and stays jammed or makes it more difficult to pull.

RopeShield is radiused like a rocket/train/missile/bullet/submarine/jet nose cone so it doesn't wedge. Maximum frictionless geomtry! It has a roundness that prevents it from getting jammed. The area that is in contact with a RopeKnight is always at a minimum because of the radius. Similar to why we use wheels on cars opposed to skis

A wedge/friction area is always increasing as it penetrates. Like a felling wedge.

Secondly the RopeShield and RopeKnight work well at smoothing over and being near frictionless with its hard anodized hard aluminum( super hard ali).


I think you could have some luck with a wedge, you would be better off with out the wedge than with it imho.

The wedge shape would not be much better than having a throw ball at lines end or staying with throwline to access rope connection knots..

There is a fair bit more to it than just bumping it over. We have it down to a science:.:glasses-nerdy: It is the radius with the ali hardness and anodizing plus all the machining.
View attachment 281847
View attachment 281850
View attachment 281851
View attachment 281852
View attachment 281853


Cheers

 

[Pelorus]

I have an aluminum fid of uniform dia in front of me, and do not see this "wedge shape" that you are describing, apart from the very last inch at the tip, which could be easily shaped into a blunter profile. The largest fid that I currently own is 3/4" / 18mm, with an internal dia smaller than 11.5mm. So, any experimentation down this road is in the future, but I'm willing to put $17 in jeopardy to undertake this rope cone experiment.

I think the RopeShield is an excellent, finely constructed product, and I'm not advocating against it's purchase, merely suggesting an alternative idea for better or worse.

 

[2treeornot2tree]

The scenaros in the video, looked to me, like a Weaver Neon Bullet High Performance Throw Weight would have pulled through also. The device you designed would also snag in a tight crotch. Make a video showing your design pulling threw a crotch, and a bag getting stuck. I might be sold then.

 

[Treepedo]

I have an aluminum fid of uniform dia in front of me, and do not see this "wedge shape" that you are describing, apart from the very last inch at the tip, which could be easily shaped into a blunter profile. The largest fid that I currently own is 3/4" / 18mm, with an internal dia smaller than 11.5mm. So, any experimentation down this road is in the future, but I'm willing to put $17 in jeopardy to undertake this rope cone experiment.

I think the RopeShield is an excellent, finely constructed product, and I'm not advocating against it's purchase, merely suggesting an alternative idea for better or worse.

Yah when we were sizing for the throw line to fit into the RopeShield and sizing for standard 1/2" rope and said rope with a splice we found the throwline will crack/split open the tip if the wall thickness is insufficient.
See what I mean. Not sure how many attempts with a 2.2 Dyneema weighted with approx 800lbs caused an unacceptable failure but it was within 1/2 dozen attempts. Like having a lead pencil break and the wood also breaks away because the acute angles. I have strong feeling that ali on the fid is soft> Might want to check its hardness before you sacrifice it and the time.

Just the same, 17 bucks and some time at the bench and you will have somethin that will pay for itself the 1st time you gotta get thru a jam up.
Best of Luck!