Round wedges in axe hang

[NCPT]

This seems like the best place to put this. Any tips for driving round metal wedges? Buckin Billy Ray makes it look too easy lol. I butchered my first attempt but this axe had a couple firsts anyways....I also tried burning the handle for the first time too. This was the first hang I ever did back in March...it wasn't great. Knocked out old handle and put a new one in tonight. Sweet feeling little axe but I butchered it again lol.

 

[NCPT]

It looks awful but there's a nice mushroom over the eye of the axe so I'm confident its solid. My torch directs the heat in too small of an area too, not sure what is best for that either so any suggestions there is appreciated. Thanks.

 

[Josh B.]

Nice looking ax.

With that much handle sticking out above the eye cracks are going to happen. Unless you really want that look, try trimming it down to about 1/8” next time. Also, it would help if your wooden wedge went from end to end in the eye. The more voids you fill in the eye, the less likely it will be for cracks to occur when driving in your step wedge, be it round or a traditional wedge.

The rounds ones are difficult to get in, all I can say is don’t try to drive it in like a framing nail in 2 hits. Sit in a chair with the grip end of your ax handle on the ground, start it with some gentle taps to make sure it doesn’t walk off center as it works it’s way into the grain. Once it’s close to flush grab a large drift to finish it off. Hitting the wood with your hammer does more damage than anything else. Just takes practice, hope this helps.

 

[Josh B.]

Here’s a hatchet handle I made. Note how the wooden wedge is tight to each end of the eye. Fit in this manner, the wood can’t move (which causes cracks) when you drive the wedge in.

 

[NCPT]

Nice looking ax.

With that much handle sticking out above the eye cracks are going to happen. Unless you really want that look, try trimming it down to about 1/8” next time. Also, it would help if your wooden wedge went from end to end in the eye. The more voids you fill in the eye, the less likely it will be for cracks to occur when driving in your step wedge, be it round or a traditional wedge.

The rounds ones are difficult to get in, all I can say is don’t try to drive it in like a framing nail in 2 hits. Sit in a chair with the grip end of your ax handle on the ground, start it with some gentle taps to make sure it doesn’t walk off center as it works it’s way into the grain. Once it’s close to flush grab a large drift to finish it off. Hitting the wood with your hammer does more damage than anything else. Just takes practice, hope this helps.

Great info. Lots of things here that I didn't do. I have gotten good fits without having to add metal wedges, adding linseed oil until the hang just swells over....figured I would try a round wedge after watching some videos. I should have cut the hang shorter, I also tried to pound that wedge home in 4 whacks lol. Thanks.

 

[dancan]

Just get a sacrificial socket that's the same size as the round wedge and drive it in or you can trim down the wood with a hacksaw and drive it in , both ways will work .
Nice ax !

 

[Multifaceted]

Just get a sacrificial socket that's the same size as the round wedge and drive it in or you can trim down the wood with a hacksaw and drive it in , both ways will work .
Nice ax !

+1 on this, I use an old socket set for this purpose as I favor the round safety wedges over the flat stepped wedges if I must use a metal wedge at all. Drive that thing in another 1/8" to 3/16", then take a belt sander or flat rasp to the top of that wood and flatten it out just a hair to maybe leaving between 1/8"-3/16" proud.

Don't fret, metal wedges can be tricky.

 

[4seasons]

Here’s a hatchet handle I made. Note how the wooden wedge is tight to each end of the eye. Fit in this manner, the wood can’t move (which causes cracks) when you drive the wedge in.
View attachment 689895

+1 on the make the wooden wedge long enough.

I make my own handles and spend a lot of time shaping it for the tightest fit before I even cut the slot for the wedge. Then I cover the wedge and slot with glue that splatters everywhere when I drive it in. After a couple of days to dry I cut off the excess and never mess with a metal wedge. The only time I use a metal wedge is when a head gets loose while working so I put one in to finish the job and then it is time for a new handle the next time I have my wood working tools out.