Sachs Dolmar 119 woes...

[woojr]

I have an older (1980 ish) Dolmar 119 with a problem that I am hoping someone might have an idea how to correct. It starts easy and runs very strong. Lately with 24 inch bar buried much of its running time. Problem is the running time is only about 3/4 to one full tank of gas. I've had it shut down when setting it down (idling) to move something and it won't restart until it cools down. Spark is there, pulls over smooth with plenty of compression. Fumes come out of plug hole like its getting gas in the cylinder but it won't fire (but the plug's not dripping wet). I've tried different plugs...
I don't think its overheating or I think it would be fried by now. I've even over richened the high speed needle beyond what seems best power in the cut. I have a feeling its in the fuel system but I'm not well versed on things like vapor locking and tank venting. Any thoughts would be appreciated. John

 

[Dolmar_Tech_Mgr]

You can rule out vapor lock as the ambient temperature is no where high enough for vapor lock. My first thought is that the age of the saw leads me to think the vent valve may be a fault. If you visit the website of our distributor for the Northeast Atlantic Power, www.atlanticpowerinc.com you will see on their homepage on the left side a Dolmar logo. Click it and it will take you the parts list for the Dolmar and Sachs-Dolmar products. From here you will find the section that is for the 119 and there will be two versions, choose the older version, go to the fuel tank page (3) and you will see the vent item number (17).What I think the problem may be is item number 18, it is a hose that slides not on the vent side of this nipple. It may be deterioteed and not letting the vent work properly.

 

[johninky]

Clutch removal.

First i would like to thank Dolmar Tech MGR for the data he provided in an earlier post. I have a Dolmar model 117 that I haven't used in 18 years. (Military service, overseas tours, blah blah blah) Recently removed it from storage and fired it up.. Got to love Dolmar stuff. Went to cut up an oak log for firewood and noticed the chain oiler wasn't working. I know 20 years ago I changed sprockets on several Parnter saws but for the life of me I can't recall how I did it. What is the trick needed to loosen that nut? Anyone have any idea why the oiler is now teats up? Tank has oil. Hose appears not to be broken. No visual external leaks. Holes in bar free of wood chips. Just not pumping any oil. Just as an aside, it felt good to have a chain saw in my hands again. Sat the Dolmar aside and finished the day with an equally old Partner.

Edit: Oops. This was meant to be a new post. Oh well I'm new at this stuff.

 

[Dolmar_Tech_Mgr]

You have to wedge the piston, remove the muffler and use a plastic piston wedge and then you can remove the clutch. The clutch hub is a left hand thread. There is a special tool to remove the hub but you can do it without the tool.

 

[johninky]

Thank you. If this was your problem, would you just replace the entire pump or go for the rebuild kit? I don't know how this pump actually works but have a feeling it probably has an O ring or 2 in it somewhere that has failed from just sitting all these years.

 

[Dolmar_Tech_Mgr]

You really dont have a choice as the repair kit is discontined for that saw as the pump has changed. You would have replace the whole pump. The new part number for that saw is 027245111. Before I got to that point I would take the pump off and make sure all the passages are free and pumping oil.

 

[cuttinscott]

I have an older (1980 ish) Dolmar 119 with a problem that I am hoping someone might have an idea how to correct. It starts easy and runs very strong. Lately with 24 inch bar buried much of its running time. Problem is the running time is only about 3/4 to one full tank of gas. I've had it shut down when setting it down (idling) to move something and it won't restart until it cools down. Spark is there

Check the spark when it shuts down the bosch ign used was very tempermental in those years of production if the saw is in good shape you may want to replace the ign assy with the SEM style
Scott

 

[cuttinscott]

First i would like to thank Dolmar Tech MGR for the data he provided in an earlier post. I have a Dolmar model 117 that I haven't used in 18 years. Went to cut up an oak log for firewood and noticed the chain oiler wasn't working Anyone have any idea why the oiler is now teats up? Tank has oil. Hose appears not to be broken. No visual external leaks. Holes in bar free of wood chips. Just not pumping any oil.

The oilers in those years of production had issues with gear alignment the gears may be worn out you need the proper tool to align the gear on the crank when you install a new pump you should be good to go
Scott

 

[johninky]

I think you are correct about the gear being worn. I took the saw down yesterday and inspected the pump along with using compressed air in all the passageways. Put it all back togather and still no oil flow. The gear on the pump did look "bad" but I have nothing to compare it to. Did notice the gear did not turn freely. Anyways, called Atlantic Power this morning and found out it only sells to dealers. So, I'm in the market for a new oiler and a few other parts. Need a source contact info. Thanks, John

edit: Just noticed you are a Dolmar dealer. I'll PM you tonight.

 

[cuttinscott]

John, I have the pump in stock $39.00 + S&H you will need the tool to drive the gear to the crank i have that as well you can borrow it with a deposit
Scott

 

[Dolmar_Tech_Mgr]

Kentucky is covered by Central Power Systems in Columbus, OH and they can tell you of the dealer nearest to you. Central Power systems number is 800-527-4007

 

[Dolmar_Tech_Mgr]

If you have to remove the gear from the crankshaft you will need the special tool to replace the gear, this special tool is the only way to assure that the gear on the crankshaft is in the right place, for that reason i recommend you take the saw to a Dolmar dealer to have it done. The tool is not inexpensive and the idea to buy it for one use makes no sense.

 

[woojr]

A little more to go on... please

You can rule out vapor lock as the ambient temperature is no where high enough for vapor lock. My first thought is that the age of the saw leads me to think the vent valve may be a fault. If you visit the website of our distributor for the Northeast Atlantic Power, www.atlanticpowerinc.com you will see on their homepage on the left side a Dolmar logo. Click it and it will take you the parts list for the Dolmar and Sachs-Dolmar products. From here you will find the section that is for the 119 and there will be two versions, choose the older version, go to the fuel tank page (3) and you will see the vent item number (17).What I think the problem may be is item number 18, it is a hose that slides not on the vent side of this nipple. It may be deterioteed and not letting the vent work properly.

Hi, I finally got around to checking (today) the tank venting pieces shown in the description you lead me to. I need a little more info on what is supposed to be happening there. I see a hose coming off the nipple as in the diagram. Is it supposed to hold pressure? How much? Any further info on what it should do when functioning properly would be greatly appreciated. woojr

 

[cuttinscott]

woojr, As long as there is a 3/16" id hose connected to the vent nipple left one from the rear and routed to the left side c case thru drilled passages with no pinches that should be good. the nipple is 1/8" but you want a 3/16' hose so it can breathe properly. It was not intended to hold any pressure. Did you pull the plug when it quit to see if you had spark at that time?

Scott

 

[Dolmar_Tech_Mgr]

Actually the nipple has two pieces of fuel line on it. One connects the nipple to the carburetor. There is a small extension on the nipple that does indeed act as the vent. But it only works properly when there is piece of fuel line pushed down over the vent section. The hose should be 112mm or 4.5 inches long. The part of the nipple that this pushes over is threaded and this acts as the vent for the is fuel tank. I forget how much pressure the tank will hold but it should hold a small amount. If it holds none or holds pressure then the vent is not working properly.

 

[woojr]

So basically if I pressure the tank back down the line to the carb it should go up a bit then bleed down to a small positive pressure? Or will it bleed all the way down? And is there a difference as long as it dosen't just pump straight through or hold steady? Thanks allot for the info...

 

[Dolmar_Tech_Mgr]

Correct, disconnect the fuel line from the carburetor and pressure the tank. It should build up and release slowly and hold at approxiametly around 1 psi. If it hold at more than 2-5 psi the vent it not venting and if it bleeds down completely the vent is not holding at all.

 

[woojr]

Well got back on the 119 today. Found that I could adjust the leak down by changing hoses and moving it on the threads of the vent nipple. Got it where it held a little but would vent down. While I was at it cleaned and checked carb. Everything looked great, needle functioned etc. Took it out and ran it full throttle ripping some mid sized logs. It ran great then died out. Seemed to be out of gas. Gas was pretty low but I thought the pickup should still be getting steady flow. So I pulled it a couple times, no fire, choked it and it fired. I made another cut, about 30 seconds or so, wouldn't idle. I refueled and checked the spark (outside in decent sunlight with clip on plug type tester). It sparked. Tried to start it again. Pulled it 3 times, checked plug, dry. CHoked it and it started first pull. Made another cut 30 or so seconds and it died again after the cut. Pulled the plug and checked the spark and I wasn't sure so tried inside out of the daylight. It sparked when I pulled it through hard but not at all at lower RPM. So I kept checking the spark over the next 10 minutes and it got stronger as the saw cooled down. Put the plug in and it fired right up.
Is this a common ignition malfunction. My limited experience has shown spark dying all the way after warming, not spark based on RPM after saw warms up.
The other thing is the location of the coil (under the flywheel) makes me wonder if something else is happening under there that's causing the spark to fade. I haven't pulled the flywheel yet. Waiting to see if you have any thoughts beyond simply replacing the ign. module. Thank you again, Woojr

 

[cuttinscott]

Check the spark when it shuts down the bosch ign used was very tempermental in those years of production if the saw is in good shape you may want to replace the ign assy with the SEM style
Scott

Woojr yes the Bosch systems were very tempermental not only did Dolmar have this problem Stihl did as well

Scott

 

[woojr]

Okay, the plot thickens with how do I determine whether its the trigger or the coil? Are there any recs? Is that upgrade available at the link atlanticpowerinc?