Sachs Dolmar Chainsaws Thread

Arborist Forum

Help Support Arborist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Hello to all,
Sorry I didn’t reply sooner been busy around the house.
The ignitions I use are from C & H Ignition, Unfortunately the guy (Bill Carpenter) an automobile mechanic who designed & started this business many years ago has retired, what a great guy! Someone did buy his company out so you can still buy his ignitions; I have not really had any correspondence with him yet-per website can give you some in-site.

About us - CH Ignitions

http://ch-ignitions.com/index.php?id_product=28&controller=product

I will try to explain the best I can, basically what I do with the engines via ignition is chuck up the chainsaw flywheel on an old Sachs crank shaft stub in my lathe, your end product will be a disc approx 3.5” in diameter. Needless to say you must be very careful doing this!!!! You must use a live center via tool post side for stability. Gingerly you must reach in with your tool post and bit and remove the inside area right before the cooling fins, it takes time and patience, depending on the engine sometimes I remove the fins first for clearance, I try to avoid the fin remove because it raises hell, like a card in the spokes of a bicycle. I do not cut into any of the center ferrous metal crank shaft mounting area were the aluminum is casted. I keep plunging into the inside fin/ magnet area until you here the magnets and counter balance scraping the tool bit, then move in towards the center to clear magnets etc.
When all said and done on the back of this disc a small rare earth magnet is epoxy mounted into a bore, on the crank case a mounting bracket is made to hold a hall sensor. I set the ignition timing at 28 ‘ BTDC, C&H ignitions have auto retarded timing, when you flip the prop the ignition retard to 0’ auto and is linear to advance with RPM to 28’, a good primed engine will start with half a flip of the prop. The ignition box is powered by a 4 cell-4.8v DC, 1000 mah minimum AA rechargeable battery. The ignition box is approx 2.5” x 2.5”x 1.25” and now I think smaller. The Ignition has 3 leads via spark plug boot & lead around 12” long , battery lead and 3 conductor Hall sensor connector of your choice. I’ve never tried it but you can probably get around 2 hours straight running time out of a battery.
I have thought of doing the same thing to one of my saws, the only problem I see is a saw needs a full flywheel with the OEM magnets via balance, pull start dogs etc, these magnets would have to be isolated not to interrupt the hall senor, or figure out timing using the OEM magnets new Hall sensor, also having clearance to mount the sensor, it can be done just takes time to figure out. Remember I do this with the crank case cut down to nothing, you can see the photo from my post page 157 #2344 I have plenty of room to work. Someone would have to figure out where to mount the battery, ignition box, switch etc. I would make the battery easily removed for quick replacement.

It can work, like any motor- that motor don't care were the spark is coming from, only cares about at the right time.

Hope this helps, anyone feel free to discuss, PM me and I will shoot you my phone #, I'm not to good at writing these forums,

Vinny,
I wonder if you had a saw with the heated grips generator would provide a power source?
 
I wonder if you had a saw with the heated grips generator would provide a power source?

I am not a electronics guru--but if it's constant 4.8V DC why not? If it's more than that--- I think 6 volts max, you would need a small voltage regulator. We use them all the time not to burn up the servo's. A 3 amp regulator is about $10 to $20.

I would think any kind of heating element supply voltage would put out plenty of V/A to handle that ignition.

My method-try it and watch it smoke--I broke allot of stuff experimenting:msp_razz:
 
Dolmar 166

Hello,

I told, I wil show more pictures of my 166 I'm rebuilding

I took the whole chainsaw appart. For a paint job.
a mate form me is an professional painter in the costum car industry. sow he Paints it like new.
Further I found some more new parts see the pics.

The only thing I still can't find are a full warp, total new interials for chainbrake, and a west coast K&N air filter.
When i got these parts i got a brand new 166.
If someone can help me. O also got some stuff fore trade. Please send me an PM.

When the paint job is finisht i post some more pics

View attachment 295728View attachment 295729View attachment 295730View attachment 295731View attachment 295732


Gr Luc
 
Hello,

I told, I wil show more pictures of my 166 I'm rebuilding

I took the whole chainsaw appart. For a paint job.
a mate form me is an professional painter in the costum car industry. sow he Paints it like new.
Further I found some more new parts see the pics.

The only thing I still can't find are a full warp, total new interials for chainbrake, and a west coast K&N air filter.
When i got these parts i got a brand new 166.
If someone can help me. O also got some stuff fore trade. Please send me an PM.

When the paint job is finisht i post some more pics

View attachment 295728View attachment 295729View attachment 295730View attachment 295731View attachment 295732


Gr Luc
That will be a wonderful saw when complete! I hope you find your parts.

it appears finding stuff for the 166 is like pulling crocodile teeth!

You wouldn't happen to have both crank case halves, crankshaft assembly, piston assembly and cylinder for a 166?

Thanks,
 
6800i,

not bad for $50 bucks eh?
attachment.php


Actually that was for the powerhead (scored) it was mostly complete (missing muffler) add a new Meteor B&C outer spike and a little clean-up.
 
152 Cyl & Piston, Crank Search

Hello Guys,

I'm looking for a good Cyl Head, Piston & Crank Assy for a Dolmar 152, I'm pretty sure a 153 will work. Used is fine- Is there a aftermarket new for thiese?

Thanks,
 
'hey, hey,

good luck,

they're out there but an NOS or equivalent will be few and far between.
 
Last week i founf this Dolmar CT with a 150cm long bar.
Bar is orginal Dolmar with rolling nose.
Helperhandle i have trade with a other collector from Germany, gave me a chainsaw for the handle.
Handle is brand new, never has oil in the tank.
 
Geeze Louise,

if we don't get moving it will be into next year before we hit page 166, me thinks Uncle Lee could fill the page (and a little more) with his collection!

No love for the old SDs,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,


GOOD, I like it like that, leaves more for me, me, me.
 
Geeze Louise,

if we don't get moving it will be into next year before we hit page 166, me thinks Uncle Lee could fill the page (and a little more) with his collection!

No love for the old SDs,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,


GOOD, I like it like that, leaves more for me, me, me.

I love mine, still got them, still use them but don`t need any more than the 9 I have now. They all run fine and are there to use when I need them. Funny ,the 115`s gets used the most.
 
Indeed,

ole T-bone has been sitting on some 143 cylinders that no doubt have not seen the light of day fer years.

Dat's OK, I found a good one and the damned thing even has a nice full wrap. and a 120/116si to boot.

I am my Mothers son, not quite a hoarder, just never seem to get rid of anything.
 

Latest posts

Back
Top