torinocobra
ArboristSite Operative
I made some assumptions that contradicted yours, I not saying I'm right though....
Sachs Dolmar Chainsaws Thread
- Thread starter pioneerguy600
- Start date
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I have no clue, and just here to learn more about my Smurfs. The blue coil came from my ported 9010, that is said to be unlimited by srcarr52 who ported it...
So since I need to learn. What are the laminations you speak of? The number of metal layers in the pick up arm? You'd seriously have to ask me to take more pics after I put them both back into their respective saws... arg!
Hedgerow said he thought he heard the cranks changed from the 9000 to the 9010 due to crank failures in the 9000. Know any more about that? True/False? more details?
torinocobra
ArboristSite Operative
Well then don't worry about the pics. I don't know what to make of the ignitions then. I'd like to know how the various ignitions are different for sure. And why. As for as the cranks go, I don't know, haven't heard that yet. I'll ask someone that might know when I get the service bulletin copied.
torinocobra
ArboristSite Operative
Well the service bulletin said that the new coil, 024143020, will allow the saw to turn 13,500. I found an earlier post from cuttinscott that said the 100 coil turned 11,800 and the new coil and flywheel turn 13,500. So they are all limited coils. Also according to cuttinscott the earlier coils were problematic and had bad timing, so that's why they introduced the new coil and flywheel. I'm going to run the 020 coil for now, probably time it, and when it goes out buy the new. It will be fun to compare the two timing curves to see what the problem was. It seems like the search function turned up a lot more results on the various 9000/9010/394/ps/cs combos when I searched today, compared to a couple months ago.
torinocobra
ArboristSite Operative
I asked him about the crankshaft failures and he hadn't heard of that problem. I just checked the 3 ipls I have and the part number never changed from 1993-2002.
Good to hear about the cranks. I'm about to add some extra stress to this 9000's crank.
Also good to know for sure that the new coil and fw are an actual upgrade. There's a part number I listed for the ignition upgrade: they list for less than $120 for the pair.
Also good to know for sure that the new coil and fw are an actual upgrade. There's a part number I listed for the ignition upgrade: they list for less than $120 for the pair.
ebear
ArboristSite Lurker
Hi Guys, pardon the interuption. I've never posted, replied or gotten in on any conversations so don't know if I'm going about this rignt.......
Have a Makita 510 that runs great and a 7900 that's just awesome. Have heard so much about the 5105's that I'd really like to pick one up.
Would like to know differences between 5105, 5105A, 5105S before going after one. Also, don't know how to put up picture or a list of my "stuff"?
Have a Makita 510 that runs great and a 7900 that's just awesome. Have heard so much about the 5105's that I'd really like to pick one up.
Would like to know differences between 5105, 5105A, 5105S before going after one. Also, don't know how to put up picture or a list of my "stuff"?
The list of stuff is the signature option under your screen name at the top of the page.
As for the 510 vs 5105/5100... They are almost the same saw with a few differences. The 5105/5100 have closed port cylinders and have a Mag chassis vs an aluminum chassis and open port cylinder. Basically same saw just a little lighter and more powerful than your 510 makita, but ascetically the same saw. There might also be a ignition or carb change but unsure about that...
ebear
ArboristSite Lurker
Thanks for the fast reply "3/4 Throttle" Got any idea what the suffix letters mean?
It's surmised that the following is the nominclature for the saws...
Dolmar PS-###: PS = Power Saw.
Makita DCS-###: DCS = Dolmar Chain Saw
Why they didn't use DPS instead of DCS on the Makita's is anyone's guess...
Dolmar PS-###: PS = Power Saw.
Makita DCS-###: DCS = Dolmar Chain Saw
Why they didn't use DPS instead of DCS on the Makita's is anyone's guess...
ebear
ArboristSite Lurker
"3/4 Throttle" Thanks again. I'm getting closer to asking the right question.......would you know what the "A" or the "S" means after the "5105"?
Also have found a 5100 "S" with good compression and new crank $275? Thanks, Ed.
Also have found a 5100 "S" with good compression and new crank $275? Thanks, Ed.
Not sure what the "S" in 5100S was for..
Dealers list saws as follows:
5105 - 325 chain set up.
5105A - 3/8 chain set up.
5105H - 325 chain and heated handles
5105HA - 3/8 chain and heated handles
The number that follows the saw (16, 18, or 20) is the bar length. I personally would run 18in 3/8 but thats just me. I also wouldn't want the bar that comes on these saws. Oregon bars are ok but haven't had the long lasting durability of a Total Super Bar. If you can save $30 and buy a PHO new I definitely would. Add $30 more to the $30 you saved and you'll actually have a bar and chain worth keeping and using.
The 5100S is just an earlier version of the 5105. They changed some of the cylinder design for better cooling and maybe something with the carb...? Can't remember. Both saws were set to lean from factory so if you get a used or new one you should have the saw re-tuned or do it yourself so that it runs richer. $275 is about average for resale depending on condition (cosmetic and mechanical). When you say good compression you mean 140psi or 180psi??? there are different measures of good compression. Stock out of the box they were pushing 180+psi and around 190psi after rings seated. Also be careful re-tuning if you get one. These are rev-limited saws and should be set in the cut, not at WOT....
What is this 4.1 dolmar you blew up in your sig? if it was a 120si or 6800i I'm going to reach through this monitor and slap you... And take the saw away from you.
Lastly I am going to shame you publicly for selling a 116si!!!
ebear
ArboristSite Lurker
I honestly don't know model # of the blow up. It was my first saw 1992. Thought the guy said it was it was a 4. or 4.2 c.i. He was selling it so cheap ($75) I almost din't buy it, + being new to the game (1992), I'd never heard of anything but MCCulloch and Homelite. Used it for a couple of years and just loved it.
After tear down looked like it lost wrist pin keeper. Gave the box of broken stuff to the dealer (claims to be the 1st one in MI) that sold me the 116SI.
After tear down looked like it lost wrist pin keeper. Gave the box of broken stuff to the dealer (claims to be the 1st one in MI) that sold me the 116SI.
go look on acres and you can probably figure it out. too bad you didn't keep it. would be a perfect candidate for a first time rebuild to learn the in's and outs...
http://www.acresinternet.com/cscc.nsf/GasbyManufacturer?OpenView&Start=30&Count=30&Expand=36#36
holy bucking spikes batman!!!
http://www.ebay.com/itm/DOLMAR-7900...273?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3f30b1e7f9
http://www.ebay.com/itm/DOLMAR-7900...273?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3f30b1e7f9
ozflea
Good ol' BP Zoom 25-1
Was sticky becking some old photo's of mine when I came across this one a Dolmar CA used on active service in Vietnam at Phan-Rang whilst I was with 2 Squadron RAAF era 1970
ebear
ArboristSite Lurker
When selling the 116SI had only looked at saws on eBay and wasn't yet aware of the abilities of Arboristsite or this thread...sorry guys. Never to make this mistake again!Not sure what the "S" in 5100S was for..
Dealers list saws as follows:
5105 - 325 chain set up.
5105A - 3/8 chain set up.
5105H - 325 chain and heated handles
5105HA - 3/8 chain and heated handles
The number that follows the saw (16, 18, or 20) is the bar length. I personally would run 18in 3/8 but thats just me. I also wouldn't want the bar that comes on these saws. Oregon bars are ok but haven't had the long lasting durability of a Total Super Bar. If you can save $30 and buy a PHO new I definitely would. Add $30 more to the $30 you saved and you'll actually have a bar and chain worth keeping and using.
The 5100S is just an earlier version of the 5105. They changed some of the cylinder design for better cooling and maybe something with the carb...? Can't remember. Both saws were set to lean from factory so if you get a used or new one you should have the saw re-tuned or do it yourself so that it runs richer. $275 is about average for resale depending on condition (cosmetic and mechanical). When you say good compression you mean 140psi or 180psi??? there are different measures of good compression. Stock out of the box they were pushing 180+psi and around 190psi after rings seated. Also be careful re-tuning if you get one. These are rev-limited saws and should be set in the cut, not at WOT....
What is this 4.1 dolmar you blew up in your sig? if it was a 120si or 6800i I'm going to reach through this monitor and slap you... And take the saw away from you.
Lastly I am going to shame you publicly for selling a 116si!!!
sachsmo
Addicted to ArboristSite
Very cool!Was sticky becking some old photo's of mine when I came across this one a Dolmar CA used on active service in Vietnam at Phan-Rang whilst I was with 2 Squadron RAAF era 1970
that thing cut concrete?
ebear
ArboristSite Lurker
Looking at this site, think it was a 123 (4.2)
ebear
ArboristSite Lurker
Sounds like you think quite highly of the 120si. If it's like the 116si only bigger, I can understand. Is it a more desirable saw than the 123?Not sure what the "S" in 5100S was for..
Dealers list saws as follows:
5105 - 325 chain set up.
5105A - 3/8 chain set up.
5105H - 325 chain and heated handles
5105HA - 3/8 chain and heated handles
The number that follows the saw (16, 18, or 20) is the bar length. I personally would run 18in 3/8 but thats just me. I also wouldn't want the bar that comes on these saws. Oregon bars are ok but haven't had the long lasting durability of a Total Super Bar. If you can save $30 and buy a PHO new I definitely would. Add $30 more to the $30 you saved and you'll actually have a bar and chain worth keeping and using.
The 5100S is just an earlier version of the 5105. They changed some of the cylinder design for better cooling and maybe something with the carb...? Can't remember. Both saws were set to lean from factory so if you get a used or new one you should have the saw re-tuned or do it yourself so that it runs richer. $275 is about average for resale depending on condition (cosmetic and mechanical). When you say good compression you mean 140psi or 180psi??? there are different measures of good compression. Stock out of the box they were pushing 180+psi and around 190psi after rings seated. Also be careful re-tuning if you get one. These are rev-limited saws and should be set in the cut, not at WOT....
What is this 4.1 dolmar you blew up in your sig? if it was a 120si or 6800i I'm going to reach through this monitor and slap you... And take the saw away from you.
Lastly I am going to shame you publicly for selling a 116si!!!
