Sachs Dolmar Chainsaws Thread

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Hey all, i just aquired a poulan S5500 which is a sachs dolmar 144, i need some parts for it and some insight. It shows to be 90ccs, are they a decent runner for there size? I need a muffler, chain tensioner and an airfilter. Thanks for anything you can tell me.

the 5500 and 6000 should be the same as the 144/153. They are different displacement but believe them to be the same chassis. Superdolmar or 166 might correct me if i'm wrong. They are decent saws but there are others out there that would perform better in that age group. Namely the poulan 655/655bp, Husky 2100/288, jonsered 2094/5, Stihl 056mag/mag2. Even a Dolmar 143 (different chassis entirely) is 95cc and I believe it to be a stouter saws than the 144/153.

They didn't sell alot of these saws state side so parts are extremely hard to come by. Ignitions, clutches, P&C's, mufflers, etc etc are all pretty rare to come across. It took me 4 years to find a clutch for mine. They are decent saws and run ok, but if you plan to run it any regular amount i would suggest getting a saw that still readily has parts available. I know most Dolmar guys will hoard their parts and not want to let them go on certain saws like that. The one muffler I saw on Ebay is a 123/133/143 muffler and is NOT a 144/153/5500/6000 muffler.
 
Was there much difference in the 9000 and the 9010?

Carburetor, ignition, and flywheel.

166 might differ with me on this but I didn't mind the Bing on the 9000 that I have. It runs good and I haven't had and problems yet. The ignition was a good upgrade but not necessary... If you tune in the wood you can still maximize your operating RPM to 9500-9800.
 
Anyone know on a poulan 5500 or dolmar 144 the adjustable oiler thats in front on the left of the muffler so do you turn left or right to get more oil
 
unsure here. I would just test it... Run the carb idle up to 3000rpm and adjust L and R and see what happens.

Am I the only one that thought... "he needs a bigger bar then..."?????? LOL... CAD! :dancing:
 
I'd say 32" in 404 real comfortably. you can run 1/2 skip or full skip chain and maybe run a 36-42" pretty well. Those older dolmars for the most part seem to have the port timing and geared for torque and not speed. So longer bars aren't usually a problem to run. You can usually find the old 14mm mount bars for a reasonable price and have been told the Stihl 14mm 088/880 bars are an easy modification away from working on the old 14mm Dolmars. My cost at the stihl dealer out the door is $100-$102 for a 41" 404 .063 bar the last time I bought one.

So I guess the question is... "how big do you really need to run?"
 
The Dolmar ps 9000 had a lot problems with failled ignitions. The 9010 coil is unlimited at 13500 rpms.
Bing carb =ps9000
Tillotson carb =ps9010
 
Latest pick up - 114. This is a one owner saw with little work, much better condition than what it appears in the picture. It is going to be one of my "working saws" along with my ps-411 (limbing) and 120si (big stuff), I reckon this one will be the saw I end up using the most for the medium stuff I am usually cutting. Also have come across a 144 and a CA locally. Very keen on the 90cc 144 as it will be cheap and rare - CA's always bring good money and this one is in good condition.
 
Dad has both the 114 and a 120si loves both of them

The 120si's are a cracking saw and I expect the 114 will be a really solid if a little heavy 50cc class saw. The strength and build quality of this era Dolmar is very impressive. They have a function over form feel about them which is devoid of modern marketing garbage and presents them as a dependable working tool for people that have to work them. The fact that they are worth about a third of an equivalent Stihl in Australia makes them a really attractive....to me. Have a line on a 144 which would round out my collection nicely.
 

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