Sachs Dolmar Chainsaws Thread

[Griffdog1]

OK - This will help get you started. Its helpful that I have a couple of saws on the bench at the moment to use for examples one of which is a dolmar 114/112!! (the first picture is a Husqvarna 266 however) The first step is to take the covers off. This is easy and is just a 4x4mm allan screws on the starter mech and the two bar nuts on the chain side. Remove the covers and the bar and chain. You will now see the first two pictures. The silver thing is the flywheel for the ignition and the other one is the clutch mechanism. The flywheel is relatively easy to remove (but I am assuming that you don't have a puller so will give you a method that does not require any special tools). Undo the nut and screw it out so that it is flush with the top of the end of the crankshaft nut. Use a long screwdriver between the flywheel and the crankcase to apply some even pressure (don't try and pry it off, you will damage something). Just apply an even pressure and then with a small hammer give the nut a sharp tap. The jarring combined with the pressure behind should see the flywheel pop off. You will now see some the ignition parts that live under there. Take some pictures before undoing the screws to remove these. You should then be left sith the last picture. That is the crankcase seal you can see that the crankshaft is coming through. If you get to this point. Get back to us!!!

 

[LonestarStihl]

OK - This will help get you started. Its helpful that I have a couple of saws on the bench at the moment to use for examples one of which is a dolmar 114/112!! (the first picture is a Husqvarna 266 however) The first step is to take the covers off. This is easy and is just a 4x4mm allan screws on the starter mech and the two bar nuts on the chain side. Remove the covers and the bar and chain. You will now see the first two pictures. The silver thing is the flywheel for the ignition and the other one is the clutch mechanism. The flywheel is relatively easy to remove (but I am assuming that you don't have a puller so will give you a method that does not require any special tools). Undo the nut and screw it out so that it is flush with the top of the end of the crankshaft nut. Use a long screwdriver between the flywheel and the crankcase to apply some even pressure (don't try and pry it off, you will damage something). Just apply an even pressure and then with a small hammer give the nut a sharp tap. The jarring combined with the pressure behind should see the flywheel pop off. You will now see some the ignition parts that live under there. Take some pictures before undoing the screws to remove these. You should then be left sith the last picture. That is the crankcase seal you can see that the crankshaft is coming through. If you get to this point. Get back to us!!!View attachment 548365 View attachment 548365 View attachment 548366 View attachment 548367

Great it may take me a bit. I'm out sick today but I will see if I can get out and play with it a bit. I appreciate the help

 

[LonestarStihl]

I'm guessing I'll need to order a second seal...

 

[mgr]

You need to pull the oil gear drive from the crank with a special puller. Partnumber puller: 957433000

 

[mgr]

Griffdog1: 120si piston, meteor or other brand?

 

[Griffdog1]

Which side do you understand was leaking?

 

[Griffdog1]

Griffdog1: 120si piston, meteor or other brand?

Yes its a meteor - it was OK. No better than the 10 dollar ones I get for huskies from asia however. Its just that this is the only sourse I could find for 120si's.

 

[LonestarStihl]

Which side do you understand was leaking?

I got it from someone else who said the chain continued after releasing throttle and that was a sign it needed a new seal. I don't have the stuff to test and find out

 

[LonestarStihl]

I guess I could try replacing clutch side one first since it's easier? Or maybe other is easier? Then if I have to do the other I can

 

[mgr]

Flywheel side is easier. Flywheel puller M22x1.5 same as stihl 041 flywheel puller.

Check this: http://motorsaegen-portal.de/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=51946

 

[Kensie1988]

Without tools one way to tell is tilt the saw over on its side like your going to fell with it, if the saw takes off running without you giving it any throttle then you most likely have the leak. And I have a saw where the chain continues to spin on idle but I'm almost positive that's because of weak clutch springs.

 

[Griffdog1]

Clutch side is easier as you have to remove the oil gear drive on the chain side. The picture I posted is of the seal on the clutch side - you can make a sharp hook to pull this out and then press in the new seal.

What you described is not necessarily a sign of requiring a new seal, it may just be that the idle needs adjusting or that the clutch spring is worn. If the saw is very erratic in its idle and "races" this is possibly the sign of a leak, but it could be a leak from a number of places (air intake, crankcase seal itself, base gasket). The first step would be to see if the idle is adjusted right. It is the bigger of the three screws you have holes in the top cover for. If the saw cannot be "tuned" properly we start looking for crank seals but we don't start there just yet - don't pull anything apart!!!

Just for reference this is a 112/114 that I recently did that was a good healthy saw just for reference.

 

[Acornhill]

Will a 111 top end for in a PS540?

Sent from my LG-D800 using Tapatalk

Anybody answer this for me? Or did I just buy the wrong top end?

Sent from my LG-D800 using Tapatalk

 

[mgr]

111 top end 44mm , ps540 top end 45mm

111 top end fits PS-43, PS-52, 109, 110, 115, 115i
ps540 1mm bigger bore special for U.S.

 

[Acornhill]

Yes but will the 111 fit on the 540 base?

Sent from my LG-D800 using Tapatalk

 

[Griffdog1]

111 top end 44mm , ps540 top end 45mm

111 top end fits PS-43, PS-52, 109, 110, 115, 115i
ps540 1mm bigger bore special for U.S.

Whats the stroke of the 540? 114 piston is 45mm is it not - does this cylinder fit 540?

 

[mgr]

Yes, it will fit on the base. 111 is open port cylinder. 115 closed port.
New p/c set from Dolmar for 111 same partnr as 115.

Diff in 115 an ps540 is the bore.

 

[mgr]

Whats the stroke of the 540? 114 piston is 45mm is it not - does this cylinder fit 540?

540 34mm stroke
114 32mm stroke

 

[LonestarStihl]

Clutch side is easier as you have to remove the oil gear drive on the chain side. The picture I posted is of the seal on the clutch side - you can make a sharp hook to pull this out and then press in the new seal.

What you described is not necessarily a sign of requiring a new seal, it may just be that the idle needs adjusting or that the clutch spring is worn. If the saw is very erratic in its idle and "races" this is possibly the sign of a leak, but it could be a leak from a number of places (air intake, crankcase seal itself, base gasket). The first step would be to see if the idle is adjusted right. It is the bigger of the three screws you have holes in the top cover for. If the saw cannot be "tuned" properly we start looking for crank seals but we don't start there just yet - don't pull anything apart!!!

Just for reference this is a 112/114 that I recently did that was a good healthy saw just for reference.

I appreciate it. I got it already taken somewhat apart. Not completely so I may reassemble it first and run it then

 

[Acornhill]

540 34mm stroke
114 32mm stroke

gasket delete should work??