Safty Chains Suck

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rjh245

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Boy I made a mistake. I was on Bailey's site a few weeks ago and there were Carlton 20 inch chains in the closeout section for 8 dollars each. I thought that was a darn good deal so i got some. It turns out they are "safty Chains." I had never used these before and they SUCK. They make my 359 cut so slow.
Is there anything i can do to make them work better (Grind down the bumper link) or should i sell them on eBay as "souped up" chains and ask 25 dollars each for them.
Rob
 
I just cut the bumper links off with my dremel, and lower the rakers a tad. they work pretty good then.
 
rjh245 said:
Boy I made a mistake. I was on Bailey's site a few weeks ago and there were Carlton 20 inch chains in the closeout section for 8 dollars each. I thought that was a darn good deal so i got some. It turns out they are "safty Chains." I had never used these before and they SUCK. They make my 359 cut so slow.

I got 10 18" loops of Carlton semi-chisel safety chain for $4.95 each from them on closeout last December. They don't cut quite as fast as non-safety chain, but 18" safety chain on my 385 outcuts 16" 95vp on my 353 by quite a bit. :laugh:

I pretty much only use them when I'm bucking a lot of wood in a weekend and don't want to bother sharpening any chains.
 
I agree, I wouldn't buy them. But if you've already got them, it makes more sense $$/hr wise(for most people, myself included) to spend the five minutes per chain grinding off the bump straps and save on the cost of a new chain.
 
KarlP said:
I pretty much only use them when I'm bucking a lot of wood in a weekend and don't want to bother sharpening any chains.
:bang: You would be finished in a lot less time if you got decent chains, and bothered sharpening them....:rolleyes:
 
Yup, grind down the 3-hump safety links fer sure, then get the depth guages where ya want 'em. But keep 1 or 2 safety chains around (instead of tossing them out) for really crappy cuts like railroad ties or trees with embedded barbed-wire fence. After making sparks and wrecking the cutters, there's no remorse, eh?
 
Kick-back reducing chain ....

.... is a more proper term than "safety chain", as no saw chain is really safe.

Just remember that the are some principally different types of such chain out there:

1) The chain with tripple-hump or just one large one, on the tie straps between cutters. These are the ones that really suck, slowing down cutting in general, and making bore cutting next to impossible.
Stihl RM2, PM1 and Oregon SL, VG belongs to this category.

2) Chain with a small ramp on the driver, directly in front of a narrow (not "bullet-shaped" like on Stihl RS/RSC and Oregon LG) raker.
The combined size of the raker and ramp is not much larger than the raker alone on the RS/LG, and I think you would be hard pressed to notice any slower cutting - maybe there will be a small difference in very long cuts.
Some even say that these chain perform better than LG/RS for bore cutting.
Oregon LP/BP/VP (++), and Stihl RSC3 belongs to this category.

Carton/Woodsmanpro also have variants of both types, but I suspect that the ramp on their "category 2" chain may be a bit larger than on the Oregon variants.

3) The somewhat bullet shaped rakers on chain like Stihl RS/RSC/RM/RMC and Oregon LG etc were also originally conceived as a kick-back reducing feature - at least according to Oregon.

4) The most kick-back aggressive chain are those with only a narrow raker, and no bumps or ramps, like Stihl RSK.

In addition we have oddballs like the Oregon Vanguard (V), and I am sure there is more.

By the way, this is my post number 2000 here, and hopefully it makes some sence....:cheers:
 
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I have some safety chains lying around. I was gonna grind them down. I did one and that was enough.

Dump them on E-bay. You will spend more $ in Dremel cutters than it was worth.
 

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