Sawbuck for Douglas Fir limbs and small trees, version 2.0

[arto_wa]

I know there are several threads of different sawbuck designs but I have not yet seen one quite like this, so here we go:

We have been using a version a 1.0 sawbuck I built over 20 years ago and figured it was time to build improved version which is easier to move around and also easier to store away when not in use.

We have quite a few Douglas Fir tree limbs falling off each winter and also few small trees which either had to be thinned out, or died off due to mother nature doing thinning and we are using these in a wood-burning sauna heater.
The maximum length of firewood the heater can take is 14 inches and anything over around 3 1/2 inches diameter would be best if it's split up.
Some of the biggest Doug Fir limbs are easily 8 inch diameter.

When collecting fallen limbs from the ground each spring, we use a 7 foot measuring stick so there will be no waste or unnecessary cutting.

Anything under about 1 - 1 1/4 inch diameter we run through a wood-chipper.



When loading up the sawbuck it's best to put smaller limbs on the bottom to keep them from bouncing or rolling (I have never had to use a bungee cord yet when doing it that way).

This time the sawbuck "X" was opened up to about 26 inches but I can easily open up more or less, depending on the chainsaw bar length. 28 inch bar in the photo below.

Loaded up and ready for cutting:


This photo speaks for itself:


Closed up for storage:



I did the first test cutting yesterday and it worked great!

Cheers

 

[buttercup]

I know there are several threads of different sawbuck designs but I have not yet seen one quite like this, so here we go:

We have been using a version a 1.0 sawbuck I built over 20 years ago and figured it was time to build improved version which is easier to move around and also easier to store away when not in use.

We have quite a few Douglas Fir tree limbs falling off each winter and also few small trees which either had to be thinned out, or died off due to mother nature doing thinning and we are using these in a wood-burning sauna heater.
The maximum length of firewood the heater can take is 14 inches and anything over around 3 1/2 inches diameter would be best if it's split up.
Some of the biggest Doug Fir limbs are easily 8 inch diameter.

When collecting fallen limbs from the ground each spring, we use a 7 foot measuring stick so there will be no waste or unnecessary cutting.

Anything under about 1 - 1 1/4 inch diameter we run through a wood-chipper.



When loading up the sawbuck it's best to put smaller limbs on the bottom to keep them from bouncing or rolling (I have never had to use a bungee cord yet when doing it that way).

This time the sawbuck "X" was opened up to about 26 inches but I can easily open up more or less, depending on the chainsaw bar length. 28 inch bar in the photo below.

Loaded up and ready for cutting:
View attachment 795161

This photo speaks for itself:
View attachment 795160

Closed up for storage:
View attachment 795159


I did the first test cutting yesterday and it worked great!

Cheers

Oops, maybe I should have posted this in the "Firewood, Heating and Wood Burning Equipment" forum?
If so, please move if you agree? Sorry.

I'm just about to make a proper sawbuck meself, not needing quite as big as yours but still. I use the same method for smaller wood because else it's just a lot of work, I have used a strap to secure them since the weight is not enough if it's all small wood.
I will be looking at yours as an example when I get around to make one. Thanks!

 

[Sandhill Crane]

I like the bench style with sacrificial cutting table because it eliminates picking pieces up off the ground.

 

[arto_wa]

[/ATTACH]

I like the bench style with sacrificial cutting table because it eliminates picking pieces up off the ground.

Looks good!

Looks like more or less "permanent location" bench works well for you with the larger diameter wood you seem to be mostly dealing with.

In our case we want the ability to move the sawbuck to different locations for many reasons.


Yours looks like a commercial or "pro" operation?

 

[Ted Jenkins]

I use a saw buck too. Mine does not look much different than your except I make a couple and use them until they start falling apart. the bottom of mine has horizontal pieces or ply to put stuff on to make them a little more stable. Thanks

 

[Sandhill Crane]

I move them with a forklift to clean out under and around them.
I started with saw horses. Then built wider ones with the cut table on one edge.
You could build a modular one, or use half bucks of frame scaffolding with adjustable feet to dial it in.

 

[arto_wa]

Sounds like a good commercial operation.

My sawbuck is for homeowner use and designed for cutting up to about 8 inch diameter tree branches and small diameter trees that have previously been cut to 7 foot lengths and can be lifted by hand and loaded in by one person.

I.E.
Small stuff only for a specific type woodburning heater that is designed for small diameter pieces and under 14 inch long..

All of the firewood cut in this will all be around 13 1/2 inches long.

 

[sgbotsford]

I know there are several threads of different sawbuck designs but I have not yet seen one quite like this, so here we go:

We have been using a version a 1.0 sawbuck I built over 20 years ago and figured it was time to build improved version which is easier to move around and also easier to store away when not in use.

We have quite a few Douglas Fir tree limbs falling off each winter and also few small trees which either had to be thinned out, or died off due to mother nature doing thinning and we are using these in a wood-burning sauna heater.
The maximum length of firewood the heater can take is 14 inches and anything over around 3 1/2 inches diameter would be best if it's split up.
Some of the biggest Doug Fir limbs are easily 8 inch diameter.

When collecting fallen limbs from the ground each spring, we use a 7 foot measuring stick so there will be no waste or unnecessary cutting.

Anything under about 1 - 1 1/4 inch diameter we run through a wood-chipper.



When loading up the sawbuck it's best to put smaller limbs on the bottom to keep them from bouncing or rolling (I have never had to use a bungee cord yet when doing it that way).

This time the sawbuck "X" was opened up to about 26 inches but I can easily open up more or less, depending on the chainsaw bar length. 28 inch bar in the photo below.

Loaded up and ready for cutting:
View attachment 795161

This photo speaks for itself:
View attachment 795160

Closed up for storage:
View attachment 795159


I did the first test cutting yesterday and it worked great!

Cheers

I have something similar.

* Mine isn't symmetrical. The back side rises about a foot higher. I can stack more wood.
* The base has 4 X's an is sized to fit in a Peavey Mart 4' calf sled. This makes it easy to move around in winter.
* I've tacked n 8' piece of 1x2 to the back uprights and put tick marks on it. This gives me a guide for the overhanging bits.

 

[arto_wa]

I have something similar.

* Mine isn't symmetrical. The back side rises about a foot higher. I can stack more wood.
* The base has 4 X's an is sized to fit in a Peavey Mart 4' calf sled. This makes it easy to move around in winter.
* I've tacked n 8' piece of 1x2 to the back uprights and put tick marks on it. This gives me a guide for the overhanging bits.

That's sounds interesting - photo would be nice to see when you get a chance?

In my case it was important to be able to fold it up the for storage and also be able to carry by one person.

 

[Marine5068]

I know there are several threads of different sawbuck designs but I have not yet seen one quite like this, so here we go:

We have been using a version a 1.0 sawbuck I built over 20 years ago and figured it was time to build improved version which is easier to move around and also easier to store away when not in use.

We have quite a few Douglas Fir tree limbs falling off each winter and also few small trees which either had to be thinned out, or died off due to mother nature doing thinning and we are using these in a wood-burning sauna heater.
The maximum length of firewood the heater can take is 14 inches and anything over around 3 1/2 inches diameter would be best if it's split up.
Some of the biggest Doug Fir limbs are easily 8 inch diameter.

When collecting fallen limbs from the ground each spring, we use a 7 foot measuring stick so there will be no waste or unnecessary cutting.

Anything under about 1 - 1 1/4 inch diameter we run through a wood-chipper.



When loading up the sawbuck it's best to put smaller limbs on the bottom to keep them from bouncing or rolling (I have never had to use a bungee cord yet when doing it that way).

This time the sawbuck "X" was opened up to about 26 inches but I can easily open up more or less, depending on the chainsaw bar length. 28 inch bar in the photo below.

Loaded up and ready for cutting:
View attachment 795161

This photo speaks for itself:
View attachment 795160

Closed up for storage:
View attachment 795159


I did the first test cutting yesterday and it worked great!

Cheers

Mine is half that size and works well for over 10 years now.
Same design that folds up but since it's smaller it's easier to move around.
Also try a piece of chain hung on one end and a nail to hook it to across to keep the limbs from jumping as you cut.
It's low tech but a great design.

 

[arto_wa]

Mine is half that size and works well for over 10 years now.
Same design that folds up but since it's smaller it's easier to move around.
Also try a piece of chain hung on one end and a nail to hook it to across to keep the limbs from jumping as you cut.
It's low tech but a great design.

Tank you - that's a good idea and I will do that but perhaps try it with a good quality bungee cord first.

 

[Marine5068]

Tank you - that's a good idea and I will do that but perhaps try it with a good quality bungee cord first.

Chain will work better with no stretch and you can lock it down in different tensions by picking the link that suits that bunch of logs.

 

[Sandhill Crane]

We had some very old Beech split and blow down. Lots of long straight top limbs to the canopy. I set up some scaffolding, a half buck or half tall section, with one x-brace and an aluminum plank. I clamped a stop block to it. Working from a pile, Margaret would feed me one at a time. It went rather quickly with two, and was safe for both of us. We did have to pick up the pile and load/empty the atv trailer several times before continuing. It was wonderful having help.

 

[CWME]

I like using a table. Put this one together using some scrap square tubing. Milled some oak 4x4 for the sacrificial top. Easy to pick up and move with a tractor. Needs more stake pockets but you get the idea.

 

[arto_wa]

I like using a table. Put this one together using some scrap square tubing. Milled some oak 4x4 for the sacrificial top. Easy to pick up and move with a tractor. Needs more stake pockets but you get the idea.

Looks good!
Those look like small logs - are you able to lift them to the table manually by hand?

 

[CWME]

Looks good!
Those look like small logs - are you able to lift them to the table manually by hand?

I have been using the forklift to get the logs on the table. Most of what I am getting is from a construction company clearing lots. They chip the small stuff to sell the woodchips.