Zero. Ethanol never really took off here. You can get a 10% ethanol blend at many servos but it's not popular.
Help me understand why a metal can would be better? I always thought metal attracted more condensation.Thanks. I am cautious but by using a metal can not plastic, using a stabilizer and good oil, and hunting out lower ethanol fuel I've had no trouble, even with fuel 6-9 months old. I try to mix small amounts and use it up though.
I believe they're less permeable so the volatiles aren't lost. I use a plastic can and use it quickly so I don't have any problems. Almost all premium around here is 0% ethanol so that's what I use.Help me understand why a metal can would be better? I always thought metal attracted more condensation.
Condensation only happens when your getting a larger air pocket in the can, and have it subjected to heat/cold swings. Normally won't be an issue, and if the cap is on good and proper won't let air in or fumes out, helping to keep the fuel in better condition. Now this pretty much only applies to sealed metal cans, my old rail road cans are vented so I try to use the fuel up in them fairly quickly and always add stabilizer to them. My 2 stroke fuel is in a nato can made by wavian. Sealed up tight. By far my favorite fuel can. Doesn't expand like plastic and takes quite a beating. Just wish it wasn't olive green..... blends in with the woods too darn good. LolHelp me understand why a metal can would be better? I always thought metal attracted more condensation.
Just wish it wasn't olive green..... blends in with the woods too darn good. Lol
Probly look better if you alternate some creamsickle with that orange, just sayin'. While we're talking on Neil's converted fuel thread, is premium/higher octane fuel more betterer? I have not had a problem with regular even after 6 months sitting in the plastic container so I have never bothered but am I missing out on something?Paint it Husky orange. Or put some hi-vis tape on it.
Didn't think of that, but I do like that idea. Think anyone would notice if it was echo orange? Think I have a spray bomb here in that shade.Paint it Husky orange. Or put some hi-vis tape on it.
What ever gas I have left over 40-1 or 50-1 I just toss into the splitter next season. Chonda engines will run on it. But I do always add Startron to treat the ethanol gas. Chonda is a funny term some guy on YouTube uses to describe Chinese Honda clones .We have 10% ethanol here in California. It's very hard to find E0 and it costs a lot more.
E10 does go stale faster than E0. But guys blame ethanol for all kinds of problems that it doesn't actually cause. There were some fuel system components that did not handle it well when it was introduced in the '90s but anything remotely new should have no problem. Phase separation is a thing but only in certain (cold) conditions. Use your fuel within 6 weeks and it'll be fine. Anything older I dump in the truck or run the premix in the lawn mower or splitter, none of which have a problem with it.
They're trying to make us use E15 now, which is a problem because few cars or *** or motorcycles or anything are approved for it. It's all about profit- the ethanol lobby has a lot of clout in the US.
If you can't find them, try Prferred or Timber Savage. One might be better than the other, but I think they're all respectable quality.I need more chainsaw files and I waded through the thread
https://www.arboristsite.com/threads/best-value-in-chainsaw-files.345302/page-7
I can't find a useful source for Save Edge files. The web site doesn't say much. Ideas?
I bought some in the Spring from Stahl’s Forestry Supply, but things are looking thin via Google.I can't find a useful source for Save Edge files.
Since covid they have had a hard time getting stock.I need more chainsaw files and I waded through the thread
https://www.arboristsite.com/threads/best-value-in-chainsaw-files.345302/page-7
I can't find a useful source for Save Edge files. The web site doesn't say much. Ideas?
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