Seal finders here you go. Poulan 306-245 seal measurments

[Modifiedmark]

Aaron and others keep asking for Poulan 306/245 crank seals. I thought one time that I did find a aftermarket seal for the flywheel side but never did for the clutch side.

Here are the pictures and demensions for both sides. Anyone with good luck looking up seals want to give it a try?

I would have put this in the Poulan thread but didnt want it to get buried there

 

[Eccentric]

Thanks Mark for starting this thread. Thanks for the heads up too. I wouldn't want to miss this one.

 

[Modifiedmark]

Ok I did my part, now get to diggin. Good luck. :msp_biggrin:

 

[Mastermind]

I sold my 245A because of this issue.......

 

[chainsawwhisperer]

Thanks for the info Mark!
Jim

 

[hotshot]

CR5542 or 5541

Heres the FW side from SKF & selected for Viton material (CRW1-V type)

Product Datasheet for 5542

That PTO side is a real bugger to find, as the width is only 0.135"

 

[Modifiedmark]

Good for you coming up with those seals even if there a single lip. They would at least work.

Yeah like I said the PTO side is the problem. Got a brg and seal place looking today, they said the FW side is now problem but there still trying for the PTO side.

Help guys!!

 

[hotshot]

Mark,
Were the original 306/245 factory PTO side seals a dual lip design, but without without a garter spring?

Like a VR1 style V-ring seal design?

 

[Modifiedmark]

Glad you brought this back up, you made me go and look again.

The PTO side is a single lip seal without any spring inside. This really dont surprise me with it being such a thin seal and the fact that it is covered by the oiler with a seal on the outside of the oiler as well. Every one blast single lipped seals but they seem to do pretty good actually as the crank seals on these saws dont really give that many problems at all even though there some 35 years old.


Not sure of the design designation but will find out more tomorrow as I will be stopping by the brg house after work. I'm taking case halves with me along with the crank as seals.

Last I talked to the saleman he asked me to bring the parts so he could look at them first hand as he had a idea or two for them. I actually waited some for him to get some seals in for the Jonsered that I just picked up.

Hopefully I will know more tomorrow.

 

[hotshot]

No Go

Ok, thanks for the information. I talked with Trostel seals earlier this week through a rep in California All Seals Inc. - The Sealing Specialists, select Trostel, then select their Seal Listing by shaft size,
& then look at item #A86493S on page 13. That EBRS type seal would have worked fine in Buna-N, even
though it's more narrow. Be patient, as it takes a while to download the listing, even on high speed net.

Trostel said they won't tool up again to make them, I guess it took a while to deplete their old stock & it's a
profit issue as usual. All Seals Inc did offer to run a hundred for set up & tooling costs, but I declined.

Looks like we're a day or too late on these....but there has to be some existing AM seals out there yet.

 

[Modifiedmark]

Hotshot, thanks for the update, I got a update also and I think I have something that will work.

Like said the flwheel side is no problem and Bearing Headquarters came up with a SKF 5542 for it.

The PTO side, they came up with a metric seal. It is a Harwal 17 x 24 x 4 that while not exact is one that I think will work just fine. The good is that it is a double lipped seal with a spring.

The OD is just about .010 bigger while the ID is just a touch smaller. I think it will drive into the housing with no trouble but it is a little tight on the shaft. It will need to be installed on the crank with a seal protector of some sort.

I installed it on a crank using my strip of beer can method and it seemed to turn on the crank just fine.

Here is a picture with the original seals on top, new replacements in the middle and some NOS seals on the bottom.

I have now went this far, next step is to find a aftermarket seal to fit the oil pump cover. LOL

 

[hotshot]

Good job

That's a good idea, never crossed my mind to try metric sizes, plus it's a dual
lip spring type to boot.

The rubber coat on the Harwal will allow you to install that in the bore much easier than a steel shell.

You'll probably want to polish the shaft up real well with crocus cloth first, as the 0.024"
intereference fit on the seal lip is pretty tight.

 

[Modifiedmark]

I also thought .024" smaller would be pretty tight and it is but after trying it on a crank, I'm not worried about it, I think it will be fine.

The main thing will be installing it and not flipping the lips on the seal but like I said a strip of beer can worked fine for that.

Like I said the seals on these Poulan 306/245 and earlier 200 series have not been problematic at all really and they have lasted for years, but there not getting any younger and this should keep them going for some time to come.

 

[hotshot]

That's a fact

So true, I guess the production run was too short for anyone to make AM pistons & jugs for them too.

Did you see that Wizard 430 bowsaw on the Bay yet? It's a rebadged 306.

 

[Modifiedmark]

So true, I guess the production run was too short for anyone to make AM pistons & jugs for them too.

Did you see that Wizard 430 bowsaw on the Bay yet? It's a rebadged 306.

If you figure in the 200 series that started in 68, they lasted a decade or so. I would consider that on the long side. There were several variations of the cyls, different decomps and such but even aftermarket pistons would have been nice.

I didnt see the Wizard yet.

 

[sac]

Mark, thank you for your work and time, it is much appriciated.

Scott

 

[Modifiedmark]

Scott, I have been going to do this for 3 years or so. :msp_rolleyes:

I looked into it a while back but not real hard. I kept finding NOS seals here and there so it never came to the forefront.

Kept haveing guys ask about them so I thought if I posted the measurements someone else would take the ball and run with it, but Noooooo.

No matter I was about out of FW sides anyway so now I'm good to go again in case I aquire another of these series. Like I need another, but it could happen. :hmm3grin2orange:

 

[Kostas]

How i missed this thread?Anyway,i also used a metric seal for the cluch side on my 306.The original was 17X24X2 (i think) and i used a 17X24X5.It is a little larger on the depth but it has allmost 2 mm until the seal touch the Torrington so i believe that it's ok.The fact is that even if i've replaced the seals,the chainsaw spining up when i rotate it.What else could cause this?

 

[hotshot]

Updated thread for all three AM seals

Scott, I have been going to do this for 3 years or so. :msp_rolleyes:

I looked into it a while back but not real hard. I kept finding NOS seals here and there so it never came to the forefront.

Found both the aftermarket PTO side seals manufactured by Dichtomatik. BTW, neither of the OEM Poulan 306/245 PTO side seals are a garter spring type pressure seal, both are the V seal designs but have worked well for thirty years or more & the new ones passed pressure/vacuum testing fine. Both of my saws have new seals & oiler plunger quad rings now all through, and they run great. The OEM outer seal for the oiler cover is 5/8" x 7/8" by an 1/8" in width, Poulan 530019035. The inner PTO side seal is Poulan 5300001936, both are metal OD, V type lips.

Here's their website, https://catalog.dichtomatik.us/ Go to the Product Information tab & download the catalog, it's rather large but quite worth reading through. Seals are on page 71 & 74.

The inner seal is a #068091VM. There's only one design choice available, V seal & Metal OD.

The outer seal I used was a #060809VC . It's also a V seal with a rubber coated OD and thinner at 0.094" width. I don't think a pressure type garter is necessary, as the oiler cover flanges fits loosely. If they made a metal OD VM type, I would have preferred that.

There are three other outer PTO seals available in the correct dimensions, one is a #0608709VC & shows to be only 0.001" wider, WTF is up with that??

The other two seals are true garter spring designs, the 06081SM & 060871TZ-H. The SM is a single lip metal OD type, and the TZ-H is a dual lip metal OD type with a factory sealant coating on the OD. Both of the garter types are an 1/8" wide.

Don't forget to put sealant on the two larger oiler cover bolts when you put the cover back on, as that's a direct shot into the crankcase! In other words, you can't pressure/vac test unless you plug those holes.

 

[XPLRN]

Great intel!!

Found both the aftermarket PTO side seals manufactured by Dichtomatik. BTW, neither of the OEM Poulan 306/245 PTO side seals are a garter spring type pressure seal, both are the V seal designs but have worked well for thirty years or more & the new ones passed pressure/vacuum testing fine. Both of my saws have new seals & oiler plunger quad rings now all through, and they run great. The OEM outer seal for the oiler cover is 5/8" x 7/8" by an 1/8" in width, Poulan 530019035. The inner PTO side seal is Poulan 5300001936, both are metal OD, V type lips.

Here's their website, https://catalog.dichtomatik.us/ Go to the Product Information tab & download the catalog, it's rather large but quite worth reading through. Seals are on page 71 & 74.

The inner seal is a #068091VM. There's only one design choice available, V seal & Metal OD.

The outer seal I used was a #060809VC . It's also a V seal with a rubber coated OD and thinner at 0.094" width. I don't think a pressure type garter is necessary, as the oiler cover flanges fits loosely. If they made a metal OD VM type, I would have preferred that.

There are three other outer PTO seals available in the correct dimensions, one is a #0608709VC & shows to be only 0.001" wider, WTF is up with that??

The other two seals are true garter spring designs, the 06081SM & 060871TZ-H. The SM is a single lip metal OD type, and the TZ-H is a dual lip metal OD type with a factory sealant coating on the OD. Both of the garter types are an 1/8" wide.

Don't forget to put sealant on the two larger oiler cover bolts when you put the cover back on, as that's a direct shot into the crankcase!

That's some great intel, thanks for the work and sharing what you figured out!! :msp_thumbsup: