I've also seen videos the exact opposite .... Operator can have quite an influence. My choice I'd take a 346 also no doubt however they aren't made anymore 346 is a nasty cuss I have one
Seeking advice regarding thinning chainsaw
- Thread starter Clark10
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Agree the nastiest stock saw available new is the 550xp? All I'm getting at is that's what you can go to the store and buy right now I don't own a 550 as I have a 346
What kind of thinning? Commercial--trees going down the road to a mill?
I live north of you in Warshington where we grow trees quite well. I'm retired but worked out in the woods overseeing logging contracts where thinning was pretty much all that was done because it was on National Forest where that's all they want to do. Here's what the timber fallers run and I'm surprised you haven't talked to any of those guys. Around here, Stihl is the favorite because there are two good dealers in the area. The most common set up was a 460 with a 32" bar and yes, they were cutting the sizes you mentioned. You want a long bar because you'll probably be on steep ground, and a long bar allows you to work from one side, stay away from the tree, and not have to bend over if bucking and limbing are part of the deal. You want a powerful saw in case you run into an old snag that has to come down for safety purposes or you need a good spurt of power. According to our local expert, second growth is more hazardous to cut because you are spending more time at the stump, so you'll want a fast saw to lessen that time.
Got your caulks?
It is a whole different game out here. I'm surprised you didn't post this on the Forestry and Logging forum.
I live north of you in Warshington where we grow trees quite well. I'm retired but worked out in the woods overseeing logging contracts where thinning was pretty much all that was done because it was on National Forest where that's all they want to do. Here's what the timber fallers run and I'm surprised you haven't talked to any of those guys. Around here, Stihl is the favorite because there are two good dealers in the area. The most common set up was a 460 with a 32" bar and yes, they were cutting the sizes you mentioned. You want a long bar because you'll probably be on steep ground, and a long bar allows you to work from one side, stay away from the tree, and not have to bend over if bucking and limbing are part of the deal. You want a powerful saw in case you run into an old snag that has to come down for safety purposes or you need a good spurt of power. According to our local expert, second growth is more hazardous to cut because you are spending more time at the stump, so you'll want a fast saw to lessen that time.
Got your caulks?
It is a whole different game out here. I'm surprised you didn't post this on the Forestry and Logging forum.
This is what a good commercial thinning falling job looks like. This was felled using the saws described above. I guess it would be a 461 now?
What do they use those smallish trees for?
Big Block
WFO or I don't go
You make a good point about operator. Also the fact that a 550 is still available new
Lumber. That stand of trees averaged around 18" DBH. That's the prime size for the lumber mills in our area. I'm thinking anything over 27" for our immediate area, gets docked or what we call paper bucked. The machinery is made for second and third growth trees.
Here's one of our local fallers in action on flat ground. This is another thinning. I think they needed more swing room on the landing. Good job of decking!
Looks like that fella knew what he wanted to do The original picture made those 18s look like 8x8s That's what I was askin what those "twigs" would be for
I am also thinking that those twigs are around 50 years old.
Big Block
WFO or I don't go
Potato
7sleeper
Addicted to ArboristSite
Well over here I don't know of a pro who would ever think of using a 460 on 18inch soft wood. And we have pretty steep areas too. In former days the 70cc class was definately top of the line because the 60cc class was hardly existent, but since the revival with the introduction of the 361 and all the hype going on around it no one would use a 70cc anymore and to be honest most pros over here would even prefer a 50cc saw fro that type of wood. With the modern 60cc class everyone is using it for even in larger hard wood. And over here no one believes that a long bar will do anything to replace proper cutting techniques.
7
7
Hello folks,
I've been here for a while on the forums reading and enjoying the community over the years but this is my first real post.
I have done my research and think I know what I would like to purchase. However, I would like to poll my helpful forum friends here at ArboristSite to see if I may have missed some good options. So, if you are willing please offer up any suggestions you have for a new saw purchase.
Here is some info:
Considerations:
- Working 40+ hours a month.
- Mainly thinning Doug Fir with diameter of 6"-20"
- Rarely cut anything over 24"
- NW Oregon (rain, 200'-1000' elevation, more rain)
- For all intents and purposes this will be my only saw
- I'm over 45 years old and in fair condition
There you have it. Thanks in advance for all your suggestions.
- Willing to purchase a "Pro" quality saw that can be repaired and maintained
- I'm not a rank beginner (I've been lucky and have learned from my mistakes) and have done rebuilds and repairs. However, I would rather spend time working in the woods instead of doing mods and repairs.
- Have a Rancher 55 that is 15 plus years old right now but the new saw will essentially be my only saw
- I would be fine with an "AutoTune" or "M-Tronic" technology, or not
- I have tried the Husqvarna and Stihl dealers and associated service departments in my area over the years and none stand above the others
- Willing to buy from web store or folks on ArboristSite
- I have found that I like the feel and performance of the Husqvarna products but I'm willing to try other brands
Late to the party as usual, and didn't read anything but this post...
Yer cutting small timber, but if yer falling timber don't skimp on power, a few extra ponies can save your neck/life.
But I wouldn't bother with anything less then a 60cc saw stihl 362, or 441 would be about perfect, not sure on Husky numbers.
Get a saw that can pull a 25-28" bar with authority, and has the option of large falling dogs and a full or 3/4 wrap handle bar.
Not sure what yer up to, but if you wan't some decent production get the biggest saw you can drag around all day, ******* around with 50cc saws and whittling at the stump isn't doing anyone any good, yes they will do it, but if yer getting paid get the wood on the ground, you can carve stumps later after you retire.
Also I like how folks assume that Oregon Fir is the same as fir everywhere else...
PNW fir is harder then many Maple species, this isn't some balsam fir or pine, this stuff is tough and hard.
Technically its a mutant pine tree, not even a true fir... anyway, get a big saw and get some work done.
PNW fir is harder then many Maple species, this isn't some balsam fir or pine, this stuff is tough and hard.
Technically its a mutant pine tree, not even a true fir... anyway, get a big saw and get some work done.
7sleeper
Addicted to ArboristSite
- I'm over 45 years old and in fair condition
7
Big Block
WFO or I don't go
I still think a 5105 is the way to go 3.9 hp befor mods! I think Brad got something like a 40% gain in speed with a MM and a pro chain. That's some balls right there.
Ryan'smilling
Addicted to ArboristSite
I'm not 45 yet, but a 70cc saw with a reduced weight bar isn't really a very heavy combination.
It is interesting that the guys from the same area as the OP both made very similar recommendations. Also, those guys both have timber experience... Something to think about anyway
What is the dry weight on that saw?
A few here have the OP at 45 with one foot
in the grave already..... let say it's a individual
thing.... w/ a lot of common sense earned or
gained... some have recommended the Dolmar
6000 series... same power head weight as the 7900
series... that's what it's about!!! power head to weight
ratios. .. bar length will save on the arms, shoulders
& back for sure! Lot of folk mouthing / repeatedly what
they've heard/read without truly the experience or making
a living with a saw....
The old saw...the ones ( or some of you would you pick up,
Make one think/have dead babies) enough throttle time
on one you'd for danged sure learn to let the saw do the work, instead of the saw working you. ;-)
in the grave already..... let say it's a individual
thing.... w/ a lot of common sense earned or
gained... some have recommended the Dolmar
6000 series... same power head weight as the 7900
series... that's what it's about!!! power head to weight
ratios. .. bar length will save on the arms, shoulders
& back for sure! Lot of folk mouthing / repeatedly what
they've heard/read without truly the experience or making
a living with a saw....
The old saw...the ones ( or some of you would you pick up,
Make one think/have dead babies) enough throttle time
on one you'd for danged sure learn to let the saw do the work, instead of the saw working you. ;-)
