seized my 660, What did I do wrong?

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We have seen aftermarket(cheap) fuel filters cause a lean condition in these saws also, they don't flow good enough to keep up with the demands of a modified saw...

Just a thought...

Brian and Tina
 
I've pulled many cylinders off by using a Map gas torch and heating up the cylinder. Most of the cylinders I was dealing with had been left with the spark plug off outdoors so it was really rusted and corroded. In these cases I had sprayed PB Blaster down the plug hole for a day or two before I heated the cylinder up with a map gas torch. However, in your case I'm pretty confident you'd be able to get it off by evenly heating the cylinder and working it off.

Once you get the cylinder off just follow the other members' advice and find your air leak before installing a new p&c set on it. Good luck with your project.
 
Homey,
thanks for confirming the tuning. I thought the low needed to be set first due to being tied in with the high circuit.

APSE,
Great idea to check the filter. I haven't checked it in a year of running the saw. It may have been giving me just enough for a stock muffler, but starving the carb with the modded muff.
 
If the saw had a major enough air leak that he couldn't get a properly working carburetor to compensate for it he never would have been able to get it to idle down.
That's what I was thinking as I read through here. Smells more like a fuel system problem. Blockages, metering lever too low?
 
I ruled out the decomp valve by pulling it and sticking my greased up pinky in the hole. I did also pull off the rubbers, lube, and re-test. (nobody should use a dry rubber) Still had the leak. Pulled the plug, anti-seized the threads and reinstalled too. I'll likely redo everything one last time on the vac testing before tear down. I wish I could roll it through to "re-seat" the seals.
 
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That's what I was thinking as I read through here. Smells more like a fuel system problem. Blockages, metering lever too low?

A few months ago I had a 046 spin the center plastic piece out of the seal. Damn aftermarket seal.I noticed it right off because the saw wouldn't idle back down. I screwed the high needle back out and got it four stroking again and finished a little job. But, it would take forever to idle down and then with the low needle set for the air that was leaking it was probably idling 4 or 5,000 RPM.

But, you could still make it four stroke. I took it home pulled the clutch and oil pump off and you could see the bearings. Replaced the seal and readjusted and it is fine.

So, the same leak is there whther it is idling or not. If you can tune the saw to idle properly you don't have a huge air leak.

Ceratinly nothing that would be out of the range of carburetor adjustment.
 
Steve, that was good advise dude, because you never know somebody could have done the muffler job on the saw. The only bad advise ever I think, is that not given. I think in the unknown all options should be explored!

And the only dumb question is the one you don't ask..
 
... and sticking my greased up pinky in the hole. I did also pull off the rubbers, lube, and ....


context is so very important.... :biggrin:

nothing to add just except just about spit my drink on the screen reading this, gutter-mind, I know.

dw
 

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