Sharpen the chains or buy new?

[lmbeachy]

Maybe i'm not doing something right, don't know. But I have never taken a chain to the shop to get it sharpened. Always hand filed my chains and hand file my chains for the mill saw. Use them till there are nothing by nobs left for teeth. So I can't compare them to chains sharpened on a grinder, but they cut real good for me and last a long time.

 

[TreeClimber57]

Maybe i'm not doing something right, don't know. But I have never taken a chain to the shop to get it sharpened. Always hand filed my chains and hand file my chains for the mill saw. Use them till there are nothing by nobs left for teeth. So I can't compare them to chains sharpened on a grinder, but they cut real good for me and last a long time.

And they will. And I would venture to bet that a good hand sharpened chain is difficult if not impossible to beat. Keep doing what you are. We only field sharpen to keep edge on and then anything really dull goes to shop. This is really more a matter of economics vs what is the best. A good grinder does a very good job.. but I suspect that even a commercially ground chain (ie: a brand new one even) would find it hard to beat the best hand sharpened chains out there. Same as most any hand done craft, any machine can come close but difficult to beat a good hand/craftsman. Keep it up.. it works. Like I said we do grinding simply because it is faster and does a good job... (one other point.. some have tough time sharpening by hand.. of course the same folks may find it tough to sharpen with a grinder too!)

 

[Blakesmaster]

Maybe i'm not doing something right, don't know. But I have never taken a chain to the shop to get it sharpened. Always hand filed my chains and hand file my chains for the mill saw. Use them till there are nothing by nobs left for teeth. So I can't compare them to chains sharpened on a grinder, but they cut real good for me and last a long time.

You're doing it right then. It takes practice but once you've developed your technique your good to go.

 

[ForTheArborist]

I have only ever had one chain break, and it was on a 660, I did not actually see it but nobody was hurt. .

Running almost a dozen Stihls every day, and been doing it for just over 30 years now, if it has worked this far then my guess would be it might continue that way for a while longer. (actually in the mid to late '80's I was supervising a team - we had over 20 running chain saws, and half a dozen running skidders, Nodwell's, etc. Doing that job for almost seven years, and do not recall breaking a single chain - and they were all ground chains) Grinders work well assuming you have some clue on how to use them.

If you have never used a grinder before then I guess you might take off too much, the trick is to take off very tiny amounts with grinder - keep all links the same angle and size - and DO NOT OVERHEAT the chain.. short quick bursts is all you need.

However, it is likely best to start with a file and learn to do it well.. then migrate to a grinder if you have the volume and need to.

You must do well for yourself because this reads like good, useful advice.

 

[treeclimber101]

These don't look bad for a few hundred bucks, http://www.right-tool.com/orchainsawch.html. I doubt they are any less capable,
and at a competition business's price compared to the Stihl.

This is my plan. I'm going to keep buying too many chains all the time until I've got racks full of them. On my off days, I'll put the grinding wheel in motion, and set myself up for a season of dropping dull chains at the job sites without the rest of it. That's a business plan which is better than an excuse to sit around and quack about nonsense at the job sites....err, I mean instead of taking time out to sharpen chains when I should be using them.


Tree Climber 101, you've never had adults for parents or employers before, have you? I'm just saying that's how it seems because you can't even fathom by any means how I, of all people, could manage to sharpen a chain without resulting in stripping my face off the bone by a popped link. I don't think the folks you are used to encountering in your woods are.... Anyway, I'm off track now wasting my time on other people's subjective assumptions about other people's subjective assumption, and that is worse than your wick wack alone.

Your sick , but pretty funny so hopefully you don't kill yourself you have something to offer here :censored:er

 

[ntsarborist]

I'm just wondering what other guy get their money's worth for chains. I'm starting to believe the the hand held, manual file isn't really the way to go is it?

hahaha, get one of those roller file guides that husqavarna sells and the correct files for your saw. they sell the kits with the guide, 2 files and a file for the rakers and a nice file handle. use that chain till there is nothing left to file. if sharpened properly the chain will cut almost like new all the way thru the chains life. dont sharpen it on the machine it wont be as sharp as an edge. fileing is the way to go

 

[ForTheArborist]

Hell, I was talking to my lawn and garden mechanic down the street from me today. I asked him about the chains and getting them sharpened. Not sure if he didn't try to shamboozle me.

He says that sharpening chains with a file is just to keep the cutters on angle, but really it's not sharpening them. This just keeps things inline for a while, but theeeeen we need to have them ground to actually do the sharpening. After that the process starts over with the file.

I'm not sure, but based on the smoke signals from the AS tribe, the guy was just trying to sell more chains and grinding service.

He also said that lowering the rakers is not necessary. This is coming from a guy that has been in the biz for much more than one decade. He makes chains.

I love to find out people are under estimating me. Let the games pursuit.
:greenchainsaw::spam:

 

[BlackenedTimber]

your lawn mechanic dude is out of his tree.

filing rakers is definately important, if you expect your chain to cut correctly.

you can ABSOLUTELY sharpen a chain with a file, to within 1-2 percent of it's original cutting ability with a little practice. Some claim to actually be able to make the cutter tooth sharper than factory, but I havent experienced that. It is true that you can use a file to square up the angle of your cutters, which is important, unless you want your blockwood to look like potato chips, but you can also absolutely sharpen your chain with a file.

how many lawn dudes are out in the middle of the woods, grinding loggers' chains everytime the cutter teeth need to be dressed...? zero, it's done with a file.

 

[TimberMcPherson]

Its each to there own, either way can work.

I had a couple of grinders but found them to be a PITA and got rid of them. I hand sharpen all my saws, it can be done anywhere at any time and the chains seem to last longer. I have a simple system that aside from my 88's and 3120 I have 4 different chains for all my saws so I dont have to carry many spares. 14inch on the top handles, 18 325 on my saws up to 62cc, 22 3/8 and 36 3/8 on the 44's and 66's. With a stump vice even the 36 doesnt take long, but the 60inch does get a little tough if you hit a nail.


Never any doubt what size chain and what saw it goes on. Im getting rid of my 394 and 395 I inherited with a new business to keep the system simple. (and about 9 echos)

 

[ForTheArborist]

Its each to there own, either way can work.

I had a couple of grinders but found them to be a PITA and got rid of them. I hand sharpen all my saws, it can be done anywhere at any time and the chains seem to last longer. I have a simple system that aside from my 88's and 3120 I have 4 different chains for all my saws so I dont have to carry many spares. 14inch on the top handles, 18 325 on my saws up to 62cc, 22 3/8 and 36 3/8 on the 44's and 66's. With a stump vice even the 36 doesnt take long, but the 60inch does get a little tough if you hit a nail.


Never any doubt what size chain and what saw it goes on. Im getting rid of my 394 and 395 I inherited with a new business to keep the system simple. (and about 9 echos)

How much are those 2 Huskies worth?

 

[gr8scott72]

How much are those 2 Huskies worth?

Good, used 394s or 395s will go for $500 - $700 here in the states.

Shipping would kill you on his. Did you notice his location?

 

[Philbert]

your lawn mechanic dude is out of his tree..

+ 2

Philbert

 

[outofmytree]

your lawn mechanic dude is out of his tree.
filing rakers is definately important, if you expect your chain to cut correctly.

you can ABSOLUTELY sharpen a chain with a file, to within 1-2 percent of it's original cutting ability with a little practice. Some claim to actually be able to make the cutter tooth sharper than factory, but I havent experienced that. It is true that you can use a file to square up the angle of your cutters, which is important, unless you want your blockwood to look like potato chips, but you can also absolutely sharpen your chain with a file.

how many lawn dudes are out in the middle of the woods, grinding loggers' chains everytime the cutter teeth need to be dressed...? zero, it's done with a file.

Ahem.....:monkey:

 

[TreeClimber57]

He says that sharpening chains with a file is just to keep the cutters on angle, but really it's not sharpening them. This just keeps things inline for a while, but theeeeen we need to have them ground to actually do the sharpening. After that the process starts over with the file.

Well either he does not have a clue about chains, or he is simply a good salesman trying to sell his wares. I have both files, and a chain grinder. The chain grinder will do a good job, but can be misused in wrong hands and spoil a chain quickly. The file is slower, but it too can do some damage!! However, the file, if done diligently will keep the edge and proper angle on the chain. And the file can do a job equally as good as a chain grinder, and in fact I would dare say that a really good person on a file can out perform at least 80% of the chain grinders around today. Either one can do a good job.. but it is the person behind the tool that makes it a great job.

He also said that lowering the rakers is not necessary. This is coming from a guy that has been in the biz for much more than one decade. He makes chains.

Well, initial thought is your contact here is full of crap. On the other hand, following his sales pitch, if you follow his advise it will likely work. If you only hand file until they are dull - and then take to him and have ground it will work. Note though.. not taking the raker down will eventually limit the bite of your tooth.. making even a perfectly sharp tooth appear duller. So.. if you follow this advise even the best filer will need to take in and have ground. Good instructions if he wants to keep business coming in I guess.. but still full of crap.

 

[madmax]

Well either he does not have a clue about chains, or he is simply a good salesman trying to sell his wares. I have both files, and a chain grinder. The chain grinder will do a good job, but can be misused in wrong hands and spoil a chain quickly. The file is slower, but it too can do some damage!! However, the file, if done diligently will keep the edge and proper angle on the chain. And the file can do a job equally as good as a chain grinder, and in fact I would dare say that a really good person on a file can out perform at least 80% of the chain grinders around today. Either one can do a good job.. but it is the person behind the tool that makes it a great job.



Well, initial thought is your contact here is full of crap. On the other hand, following his sales pitch, if you follow his advise it will likely work. If you only hand file until they are dull - and then take to him and have ground it will work. Note though.. not taking the raker down will eventually limit the bite of your tooth.. making even a perfectly sharp tooth appear duller. So.. if you follow this advise even the best filer will need to take in and have ground. Good instructions if he wants to keep business coming in I guess.. but still full of crap.

Good post!

 

[TreeClimber57]

get one of those roller file guides that husqavarna sells and the correct files for your saw. they sell the kits with the guide, 2 files and a file for the rakers and a nice file handle.

Those are excellent tools, often wondered why others did not copy the idea.

 

[TotalNZ]

There's alot of talk on this site about the need for grinding.
I fit a new chain, sharpen it with a file before i use it then continue sharpening with a file until the cutters start breaking off then fit a new one. No grinding ever necessary.
I carry 2 chains incase i break one during the day ( which does happen especially with oregon chain )

 

[treeclimber101]

I have never used a grinder for anything else than removing a bur or taking down rakers ,I can file a chain even if is hit with a rock or metal with some patience to near its original sharp , and a new chain can be cut to be sharper than originally but often cuts the life of the chain considerably , practice will save you time and money a 30 inch chain should take no longer than 20 minutes..

 

[fishercat]

i file rakers with a file.

as for sharpness with a grinder,if you can't get them razor sharp with a grinder,you don't know what your doing or the grinding wheel is junk.

 

[bruce6670]

There's alot of talk on this site about the need for grinding.
I fit a new chain, sharpen it with a file before i use it then continue sharpening with a file until the cutters start breaking off then fit a new one. No grinding ever necessary.
I carry 2 chains incase i break one during the day ( which does happen especially with oregon chain )

What are you cutting ? Breaking off teeth doesn't sound fun.:jawdrop: