Sharpening Jig
- Thread starter msb1766
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Kevin
Addicted to ArboristSite
Which one?
Kevin
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Kevin
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Do you know what chain you`ll be using?
Kevin
Addicted to ArboristSite
I don`t recognize those numbers as Oregon unless they`re drive link counts but hang on and I`ll try and draft an explanation.
In the meantime you can write Oregon and ask them to send you instructions on the use of their Professional Bar Mount Filing Guide.
In the meantime you can write Oregon and ask them to send you instructions on the use of their Professional Bar Mount Filing Guide.
Kevin
Addicted to ArboristSite
Get the proper sized file .
Turn the top swivel to match your top plate angle say...25o .
If you`re using round ground chisel chain set the lower swivel to 10o to get the side plate hook . The file slopes upward towards the end of the file.
Place the guide midway along the length of the bar so the spring and jaw clamp (blue line) rides just over the top of the chain rivets and snug it up slightly, when filing the side plate hook the file will sometimes come in cotact with the top of this clamp.
Measure the distance from the bottom of the guide to the bottom of the bar with a straight edge and make sure both sides are equal to the bottom of the bar and tighten it to the bar .(red lines)
Raise the file and back a cutter up to the stop (yellow line), check the stop distance behind the file so that you aren`t taking too much off with the file.
Adjust the height of the file so that 20% of the file or 1/5 of the file is above the cutter .
Mark the cutter with a felt pen to ID it and file the cutter in a forward motion only.
Two or three strokes max should do it.
You can also mark the inside of the cutter with a black felt pen and you`ll see the results of your filing.
When you are done with that side of the chain remove the guide and reverse the angles on the two swivel heads to match the other side.
It`s a bit of a pain but with practise you`ll get better and quicker, don`t be in a hurry .
Turn the top swivel to match your top plate angle say...25o .
If you`re using round ground chisel chain set the lower swivel to 10o to get the side plate hook . The file slopes upward towards the end of the file.
Place the guide midway along the length of the bar so the spring and jaw clamp (blue line) rides just over the top of the chain rivets and snug it up slightly, when filing the side plate hook the file will sometimes come in cotact with the top of this clamp.
Measure the distance from the bottom of the guide to the bottom of the bar with a straight edge and make sure both sides are equal to the bottom of the bar and tighten it to the bar .(red lines)
Raise the file and back a cutter up to the stop (yellow line), check the stop distance behind the file so that you aren`t taking too much off with the file.
Adjust the height of the file so that 20% of the file or 1/5 of the file is above the cutter .
Mark the cutter with a felt pen to ID it and file the cutter in a forward motion only.
Two or three strokes max should do it.
You can also mark the inside of the cutter with a black felt pen and you`ll see the results of your filing.
When you are done with that side of the chain remove the guide and reverse the angles on the two swivel heads to match the other side.
It`s a bit of a pain but with practise you`ll get better and quicker, don`t be in a hurry .
Last edited:
mikey
ArboristSite Operative
Hi msb1776,I believe you have 2 different chains.The s59 is a 3/8 lo profile with 59 links(length of chain) and takes a 5/32 file .The h78 is a .325 pitch chain and it uses a 3/16 file.I can't be 100% with seeing your chains but the I know Oregon identifies their chains this way.If there is a sawshop nearbytake your chains and you jig I sure theyill be glad to help.You'll probably learn to file your chains much faster without the jig. Good luck,Mikey
eyolf
Addicted to ArboristSite
There are some of us that are blessed with a keen eye, steady hands, and all the coordination in the world, and then there's the rest of us.
I've been using a Granberg version of your Oregon filing guide for a long time, after I loaned out my oregon one and never got it back. I wouldn't last long without it...my normal procedure is to file a chain with the jig, paying attention to returning all the cutters to exactly what I want for angles, and length, then I go out and hand file 2 or 3 times and get 'em all screwed up, so I have to re-file in the shop.
Clamp your bar in a heavy bench vise, then mount the guide...puts everything at a comfortable height. After a short time, you'll find that you can get a 16" chain done in about 10 minutes, and sharper than the kid does with the grinder at the hardware store
I've been using a Granberg version of your Oregon filing guide for a long time, after I loaned out my oregon one and never got it back. I wouldn't last long without it...my normal procedure is to file a chain with the jig, paying attention to returning all the cutters to exactly what I want for angles, and length, then I go out and hand file 2 or 3 times and get 'em all screwed up, so I have to re-file in the shop.
Clamp your bar in a heavy bench vise, then mount the guide...puts everything at a comfortable height. After a short time, you'll find that you can get a 16" chain done in about 10 minutes, and sharper than the kid does with the grinder at the hardware store
Kevin
Addicted to ArboristSite
Thanks eyolf,
I forgot the vise in the instructions.
I use a small vise bolted to a workmate but any vise will work.
Two other things that come to mind are cleaning and rotating the file occasionally.
The guide works well with chains that have bumper links or bumper drivers.
I forgot the vise in the instructions.
I use a small vise bolted to a workmate but any vise will work.
Two other things that come to mind are cleaning and rotating the file occasionally.
The guide works well with chains that have bumper links or bumper drivers.
