Sharpening Tools With A File - Advice Please

[TNTreeHugger]

Rather than buy new tools, I thought I'd see if what I already have is usable..
two sizes of hedge trimmers
Pruning saw
ax


I've sharpened the pruning shears and the hedge trimmers.
I found markings on the trimmers:
Keen Kutters, Solid Steel, Hand Forged, England
I've cleaned them up with a soap brillo pad, dried them, and spritzed with WD40.

Do they look okay? Do I need to do anything else with them?

 

[Ted Jenkins]

Many of these tools can be sharpened with a file or a 4.5" hand grinder starting out at $12. I have a small hand file that I use to keep my pruning saw razor sharp. I deal with buck thorn bushes on a regular basis. I used to use a small chain saw to cut them back from the trail and my arms and legs came out more bloody than the bushes. So I mounted a 6 foot handle to a blade, but it would get dull pretty fast being next to the dirt. So tried a couple of hand files setups and found the perfect one. It takes only about 10 minutes to bring it back to perfect condition. Thanks

 

[TNTreeHugger]

Many of these tools can be sharpened with a file or a 4.5" hand grinder starting out at $12. I have a small hand file that I use to keep my pruning saw razor sharp. I deal with buck thorn bushes on a regular basis. I used to use a small chain saw to cut them back from the trail and my arms and legs came out more bloody than the bushes. So I mounted a 6 foot handle to a blade, but it would get dull pretty fast being next to the dirt. So tried a couple of hand files setups and found the perfect one. It takes only about 10 minutes to bring it back to perfect condition. Thanks

Can you describe your hand file set up, please?
I used the hand file, just holding the tool in my lap, with a towel on my knee.
I suppose a vise would work better? I'll have to see if there is one in my barn...

 

[Del_]

An interesting read:

https://www.amazon.com/Razor-Edge-Book-Sharpening/dp/096660590X

 

[Woos31]

I've done the same with a saw file and or flat file, then a strip of emery cloth bout a foot long and run it back and forth for axes or I'd do if I had shears like OP photos and lawn mower blades. With some fiddling around with hand placement for the stroke of your emery cloth, you can get it to form to the angle put on your tools from the manufacturer. I know there are better ways but I'm a cheap a$$ and only use what's in the shed plus my elbow grease is pretty cheap too.

 

[TNTreeHugger]

An interesting read:

https://www.amazon.com/Razor-Edge-Book-Sharpening/dp/096660590X

I don't know... the reviews are mixed.

 

[TNTreeHugger]

I've done the same with a saw file and or flat file, then a strip of emery cloth bout a foot long and run it back and forth for axes or I'd do if I had shears like OP photos and lawn mower blades. With some fiddling around with hand placement for the stroke of your emery cloth, you can get it to form to the angle put on your tools from the manufacturer. I know there are better ways but I'm a cheap a$$ and only use what's in the shed plus my elbow grease is pretty cheap too.

"Emery cloth" what's that and where do you get it?

 

[TNTreeHugger]

I think the saw came out great looking - even cuts, too!

 

[TNTreeHugger]

So, on those hedge trimmers... I want to sharpen that beveled edge on each half only, right? Not the back flat side?
I went over the back side, just to smooth it out, but kept the file flat on the surface. Is that okay?

 

[Woos31]

"Emory cloth" what's that and where do you get it?

It's usually reddish color with a black underside, comes in rolls and say 1" wide. Very flexible like cloth and I get it at the hardware or parts house. Basically is super fine sand paper put on cloth, but you can remove a fair bit of metal with a bunch of it. Or have you seen the flapper grinding wheels for a 4" power grinder? This emery cloth is very similar and is in a roll on light fabric that tears like duck tape

 

[TNTreeHugger]

It's usually reddish color with a black underside, comes in rolls and say 1" wide. Very flexible like cloth and I get it at the hardware or parts house. Basically is super fine sand paper put on cloth, but you can remove a fair bit of metal with a bunch of it. Or have you seen the flapper grinding wheels for a 4" power grinder? This emery cloth is very similar and is in a roll on light fabric that tears like duck tape

So, after I sharpen with the hand file, I should go over the edge with the emery cloth?

 

[Woos31]

It's usually reddish color with a black underside, comes in rolls and say 1" wide. Very flexible like cloth and I get it at the hardware or parts house. Basically is super fine sand paper put on cloth, but you can remove a fair bit of metal with a bunch of it. Or have you seen the flapper grinding wheels for a 4" power grinder? This emery cloth is very similar and is in a roll on light fabric that tears like duck tape

If you get on the Google monster and search emery cloth it'll show you what it's about and where you can find it

 

[Woos31]

So, after I sharpen with the hand file, I should go over the edge with the emery cloth?

I do but probably cuz I'm Very OCD and it will even out any ridges and imperfections left behind from filing. Maybe it's thinking too far into it but I always think of it as a smooth sharp surface will cut easier and cleaner than an uneven sharp surface say like serrated edges, because basically that's what is created only in microscopic form

 

[Del_]

I don't know... the reviews are mixed.

I wouldn't put much faith in the Amazon reviews. I bought and read the book shortly after it was published.

http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php/192257-John-Juranitch-razor-edge-guy

 

[Franny K]

Rather than buy new tools, I thought I'd see if what I already have is usable..
two sizes of hedge trimmers
View attachment 508750
Do they look okay? Do I need to do anything else with them?

I would suggest retiring those hedge clippers and getting ones that have some cushioning feature as they snap closed. Sharpening something like for me seems tricky, to get the whole length to cut nicely seems elusive. There must be some adjustment at the pivot and curvature to the blade to get the right pressure holding the blades against each other. I seem to end up having to make some of this force at the handles.

 

[ANewSawyer]

So, on those hedge trimmers... I want to sharpen that beveled edge on each half only, right? Not the back flat side?
I went over the back side, just to smooth it out, but kept the file flat on the surface. Is that okay?

No, not really. But it is not like you ruined A priceless pair of headge trimmers. Scissor and opposed blade tools like this are supposed to be ground on the one bevel only. Raise a burr on the back side then close the blades a couple of time and it will remove the burr. If you aren't raising a burr, you aren't sharpening. The burr is raised on the side opposite the one being ground.

Don't worry, I made a lot of mistakes when I started sharpening. I suggest reading on bladeforums, in the axe subforum and the sharpening subforum. I am not a very good sharpener but those people are fantastic. They can whittle a hair with a pocketknife. Not that that helps with life tasks...

 

[TNTreeHugger]

I wouldn't put much faith in the Amazon reviews. I bought and read the book shortly after it was published.

http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php/192257-John-Juranitch-razor-edge-guy

I always read and consider the reviews - on anything. While some may have just had a fluke bad experience, and some may exaggerate positive, or negative, there is usually some truth to be found in the reviews.
Does the book offer techniques specific to gardening tools?

 

[TNTreeHugger]

I would suggest retiring those hedge clippers and getting ones that have some cushioning feature as they snap closed. Sharpening something like for me seems tricky, to get the whole length to cut nicely seems elusive. There must be some adjustment at the pivot and curvature to the blade to get the right pressure holding the blades against each other. I seem to end up having to make some of this force at the handles.

I agree they need to be in retirement.... that's why they're in such bad shape.
I have a newer pair and a pair of long handled loppers that I've been using. I pulled these out to "practice" sharpening on before I tackle my good ones.
I can't recall the brand, but they are just like these:

They need sharpening, but I don't want to make them worse than they are.
Also have a good pair of shears, too, similar to these:


I did notice on the old hedge clippers I sharpened there is a gap between the two blades when closed. Wonder how that happened, if it's supposed to be like that, and if not, how to get rid of it??

 

[TNTreeHugger]

No, not really. But it is not like you ruined A priceless pair of headge trimmers. Scissor and opposed blade tools like this are supposed to be ground on the one bevel only. Raise a burr on the back side then close the blades a couple of time and it will remove the burr. If you aren't raising a burr, you aren't sharpening. The burr is raised on the side opposite the one being ground.

Don't worry, I made a lot of mistakes when I started sharpening. I suggest reading on bladeforums, in the axe subforum and the sharpening subforum. I am not a very good sharpener but those people are fantastic. They can whittle a hair with a pocketknife. Not that that helps with life tasks...

Do you mean only one of the blades should be sharpened??

 

[ANewSawyer]

No, both blades should be sharpen bit only sharpen the bevel, that is cutting edge. It isn't like a knife where there are two sides of the same blade to be sharpened. You just sharpen the outer side, not the flat. Sorry, I was unclear. I hatentyping on a tablet.

You will find that a lot of scissors have that gap. It is not uncommon for the blades of scissors to ride upon each other. The blades are, on purpose, bent inwards to give the shearing action needed to cut the material. Let me find a video, be right back.