Shopping for Log Splitter suggestions

[560Dennis]

I was thinking about buying a Woods after watching an early Messicks video about log splitters.
So I went to my local implements dealer to get some info. i was told that they did sell them but their sounce Woods stopped making them. I was kinda leaning towards the Woods.
Now I don’t know what to look at ,cause I find it very uncomfortable about big box so to speak stores won’t support me I’d I have issues with one. Anyways I like to be able to walk in if I have a problems and get them resolved ASAP.
Any-suggestions as to what to look at ?

 

[stumpy75]

I like the splitter in my sig. It's now called CountyLine from TSC. I have the 22ton, and there has only been a few pieces of crotch wood that it would not split. I split 4-5 cords a year, and don't need a high production machine.

Depends on how much and what species you usually get. If it's elm, then you will need more tonnage than straight oak. Is speed really important to you, or do you just want one that won't take forever?

 

[farmer steve]

I was thinking about buying a Woods after watching an early Messicks video about log splitters.
So I went to my local implements dealer to get some info. i was told that they did sell them but their sounce Woods stopped making them. I was kinda leaning towards the Woods.
Now I don’t know what to look at ,cause I find it very uncomfortable about big box so to speak stores won’t support me I’d I have issues with one. Anyways I like to be able to walk in if I have a problems and get them resolved ASAP.
Any-suggestions as to what to look at ?

Depends on your volume. I looked at the Woods at Messicks when they had them a few years ago. It wasn't much different that the TSC county line I have except the price. That being said I understand about the big box stores. My TSC has been trouble free for the last 100 cord or so. I like the Kohler motor as it rarely takes 2 pulls to start except when really cold.

 

[saxman]

https://www.northerntool.com/shop/t...Logging > Log Splitters&utm_source=Google_PLA
I bought this unit last year and it’s been great so far. What I like best is the Honda engine and the auto idle feature that brings the engine to idle when the cylinder is retracted.

 

[REJ2]

I bought one of those 37 ton NorthStar’s in January, couldn’t be happier. Split 5 cords and not a single hiccup or leak of any kind.


The long rows are 24 feet long by almost 5 feet high

 

[bmwz3coupe]

I went with the 27 ton Champion in 2018. I have about 50 hours on it so far. I even loan it out to friends. It has a 11 second cycle time. I can split a full pickup load in 30 minutes easy with a friend helping. My goal every year is to have 2 years of wood drying all the time. 2 year dried wood burns very hot.

 

[sundance]

I was thinking about buying a Woods after watching an early Messicks video about log splitters.
So I went to my local implements dealer to get some info. i was told that they did sell them but their sounce Woods stopped making them. I was kinda leaning towards the Woods.
Now I don’t know what to look at ,cause I find it very uncomfortable about big box so to speak stores won’t support me I’d I have issues with one. Anyways I like to be able to walk in if I have a problems and get them resolved ASAP.
Any-suggestions as to what to look at ?

Log splitter is a pretty simple machine. No reason to expect much that would need support.
I built my own, but the Tractor Supply (CountyLine) machines seem to get good reviews.

 

[Big_Eddy]

https://www.northerntool.com/shop/t...Logging > Log Splitters&utm_source=Google_PLA
I bought this unit last year and it’s been great so far. What I like best is the Honda engine and the auto idle feature that brings the engine to idle when the cylinder is retracted.

Can you tell us more about the idle down? How is it triggered? Is there a lever or cable or what ? Is there a delay between hitting the home position and idle down start or is it immediate? How fast does it come back off idle when you grab the lever?

I built my own splitter and this sounds like an “enhancement” I could like.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

 

[saxman]

It’s very simple, it makes me wonder why others don’t have it. Basically it’s just a lever mounted on the beam so when the wedge fully retracts it pushes the lever back that’s hooked to a cable attached to the throttle on the engine. When you pull the lever to split another round the spring loaded lever moves the throttle to maximum. The reaction is instant, it’s nice to have the engine at idle while moving your rounds for splitting. I hated to hear my old splitter screaming under no load, it also saves gas. It you have a Northern Tool around you might check it out.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Raintree]

Bought the 20 ton Brave last year, good little unit. Splits on both of the piston strokes. The Brave is the lighter duty of the Iorn and Oak.
https://www.logsplittersdirect.com/...msJxZJq4xrG7tdhFIt12HJIMtrthKjxEaAtNJEALw_wcB

 

[saxman]

I had a 26 ton Brave for 16 years before I got the Northern Tool splitter. I split lots of wood with it. The 8 HP Briggs was getting tired so I sold it.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[ElevatorGuy]

I have the Tsc 30t and I haven’t found anything it won’t split. That includes the hickory crotch my buddies 27 ton stalled on.

 

[560Dennis]

I was going to buy a tractor hydraulic operator splitter,but the messicks video changed my mind .
Is , theres two speed push and reverse when it senses push when resistance build up ?

 

[ericm979]

Many cheaper splitters will be "horizontal/vertical" types. While some people like the vertical mode, I find its a lot harder to position and split a round in vertical mode. It uses all upper body strength while lifting a round to be horizontally split uses your legs and back, which are stronger. Especially for me. I bought a used Oregon 28ton h/v splitter but I have used it in v mode just once.

In horizontal mode the wheels are partially in the place where you want to stand. There's a newer Oregon model that has an extended frame that's supposed to lessen this problem. I can work around it but it's not ideal. H/V splitters all have the wedge on the ram, pushing against a "foot" on the end of the beam. When you have a piece of wood that's stuck on the wedge you can retract it and there are usually strippers that will push the piece off the wedge.

A work table is essential. Otherwise you'll be picking up pieces to finish splitting them to size.

I was going to buy a tractor hydraulic operator splitter,but the messicks video changed my mind .
Is , theres two speed push and reverse when it senses push when resistance build up ?

The two speed is automatic. I only notice it shifting into low when the wedge slows way down. It does not reverse automatically. My splitter has refused to split only a couple times. The wedge just stops and the engine labors some as the relief valve trips. Normally it will cut across the grain on funky pieces. Sometimes the splits that result are too irregular.

 

[cantoo]

Nothing wrong with buying a cheap one and making it like you want. This is a Speeco.

 

[Big_Eddy]

In my mind, the number one decision to make is whether you want the wedge on the beam or cylinder. Wedge on beam, your splits are pushed away from you clearing the deck every time. Wedge on cylinder, your block stays put, making resplits easy. What size wood do you normally split? If you are splitting 24”+ rounds into 8-10 chunks, then wedge on cylinder with a log lift and work platform (and possibly a vertical mode) is likely best.
If you are splitting 10-16” rounds into 2 or 4 with a conveyor to take splits away, you want your wedge on the beam.
H/V splitters are limited to wedge on cylinder.
With wedge on beam, without a conveyor, you will build up a good pile at the exit. You need to plan for moving the splitter forward every so often if just letting it fall.
Do you work alone when splitting? If so, then wedge on beam let’s you ignore the splits until later. Grab a block, split, next block... and stack the splits later. Wedge on cylinder you must r3move each split, but if a helper is doing it, they don’t have to pick them off the ground.

Or do what I did. I built one of each


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

 

[sb47]

I had a Husky 22 ton for 10+ years and it was OK but it wouldn't split live oak at all. 4 years ago I up graded to a Countyline 40 ton unit and I really like it. In fact I now have 2 of them. The beam height is a little taller then the smaller units and the wedge is slimmer and taller. Most wedges are 7'' tall. The wedge on the 40 is 10'' tall witch makes splitting the stringy stuff a lot easier. I no longer have to flip the round over and resplit the stringy stuff.
The 40 goes through live oak like butter, unlike the 22 ton unit witch would just stop solid on live oak. I have one set up with a Gorilla Back crane log lift for busting the big rounds and the other for everything else. I have over 1,100 hours on the one that is 4 years old and it runs just as good as my new one I bought last year. Both are solidly built and the welds look like stacked dimes. Both units have been solid as a rock and I haven't needed any service to ether one.

 

[Sandhill Crane]

Might be a reason they quit making them. Tractor hydraulics are probably pretty slow for splitting firewood.

 

[Lee192233]

I've been happy with the Northstar 30 ton. I've split probably close to 30 cord with it. Not one hiccup. Could be faster but I've only had a couple gnarly pieces that I gave up on over the years.

 

[ericm979]

One thing to check for is that at full extension there's not a big gap between the point of the wedge and the plate or pusher. On my Oregon it's about 2". Many of the wood species I burn don't spit all the way on my splitter. Sometimes I can separate them by hand or by retracting the wedge a bit and pulling the split away. Sometimes I have to reverse the round in the splitter to try to split it from the other side. It slows down the splitting quite a bit. I need to make a spacer that will eliminate the gap. The species I have that are a problem this way are tan oak, bay, coast live oak. Bay is the worst. Eucalyptus is not so bad when it's green. Madrone and doug fir are fine.