Side leaner tips.

[Exophysical]

Looking for more tips, methods, and advice for taking down side leaners. I usually either cut a very large notch, or occasionally use a keyhole cut if needed. When everything goes right I've been able to get even fairly hard leaners to fall almost 90 degrees off their line... but of all the trees I cut I still find a tricky side leaner the least co-operative. If anyone's got a good tip, I'm all ears.

 

[irhunter]

I use the aim-it method, as described here:

http://www.forestapps.com/tips/tips.htm

I have worked around western production fallers who were using Sizwheels for countless side-leans of 24 to 40" trees.

https://www.arboristsite.com/threads/sizwheel-and-dutchman.213427/

Roy

 

[TheJollyLogger]

I guess one question would be whether this would be in an urban environment or not. The techniques are definitely different.

 

[Exophysical]

I guess one question would be whether this would be in an urban environment or not. The techniques are definitely different.

Both. Mostly in the bush, selectively taking tree's for firewood, occasionally taking down problem snags for myself and some neighbors.

I guess I'm mostly interested in techniques not involving ropes or heavy equipment, just cause that stuff is more or less self-explanatory.

 

[TheJollyLogger]

Ok, so you are in alberta, so guessing mostly arboreal forest... birch, spruce, aspen? Mostly tall pecker poles?

 

[Exophysical]

Ok, so you are in alberta, so guessing mostly arboreal forest... birch, spruce, aspen? Mostly tall pecker poles?

I mostly take birch, which is where the selective cutting comes in. Big birch is real prone to having rot, so I mostly stick to 12-16" diameter trees. Yes, they do tend to get pretty tall in some places.

Occasionally I do take down poplar or alder up to 30" diameter, but that is more of an exception.

 

[TheJollyLogger]

Yeah, so usually a little side notch with maybe a soft Dutchman will get it done... aim the notch20 degrees or so off your aimpoint. I mean, if it's critical, the tongue and groove is effective, but most guys on YouTube have no idea why they're doing it or how it actually works, or why...

 

[Exophysical]

Yeah, so usually a little side notch with maybe a soft Dutchman will get it done... aim the notch20 degrees or so off your aimpoint. I mean, if it's critical, the tongue and groove is effective, but most guys on YouTube have no idea why they're doing it or how it actually works, or why...

Thanks, I'll give that a shot next time I'm in the bush. The big notch thing works real well most of the time, but you end up pretty invested... If the tree isnt doing what I hoped there really isnt any backup plan.

With your method, or that Sizwheel thing, if I've somehow misread the situation at least I've still got options. Thanks a bunch guys.

 

[TheJollyLogger]

Not a fan of a big notch, especially on small trees, usually causes more problems than it solves... I hate threads like this.... it just takes a few thousand trees, and then you're still just figuring it out... it really takes a guru on the ground....