Slight damage to plating edge near ports. Okay to use?

[ATS MS]

Hello chainsaw experts,

This is an VI 955 cylinder where the piston scuffed the wall and began to wear through plating at port edges.

Would this present future problems, decrease longevity, or cause any performance issues?

If okay to use, what should be done to minimize any negative impact? I assume smoothing the plating edges would be necessary?

 

[RED-85-Z51]

I personally would file that jug under scrap if it was in front of me...i see quite a bit of damage.

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[AlterEgo]

I would grind all that back radically and throw-er together and see how it ran. If I were doing it for me, that is. You might get lots of hours out of that if it was cleaned up hard. However, it looks like there may be damage outside of the transfer edges(pocks of holes in the plating)? That will be a problem and then would not be worth the effort.

 

[RED-85-Z51]

The scoring/possible transfer isnt as big of a concern to me as the transfer port plating and gouges/pocks. Im sure it will run...but for how long?

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[TBS]

You can try what has been suggested but I would be on the hunt for a good used cylinder, you might get lucky and find some new old stock parts.

 

[ATS MS]

Thank you for the replies and suggestions. I kinda figured it would be risky and was potentially scrap. I thought maybe smoothing the edges near the transfers would be a possibility, but also figured that performance and longevity would definitely be affected.

I have replacement cylinder on the way now. I just hate to scrap something that is nearly extinct already. It’s in really great shape otherwise, so I may send it off to get replated.

There used to be a shop around the corner here that could do just about any kind of treatment a person could ever need to an engine part. However they closed about a year ago along with most machine shops around here.

Anyone have suggestions for a reputable company?

Much appreciated!

 

[Mad Professor]

A little off topic. How is that saw to run? 82cc reed valve engine must be a torque monster. Sort of a super XL auto on steroids?

I'd not use that cylinder. More plating is going to flake off and it will go up AND down. Bearings won't like that, and it will trash another piston.

 

[holeycow]

Yup. Toast.

 

[ATS MS]

A little off topic. How is that saw to run? 82cc reed valve engine must be a torque monster. Sort of a super XL auto on steroids?

I'd not use that cylinder. More plating is going to flake off and it will go up AND down. Bearings won't like that, and it will trash another piston.

Yeah, that was my concern as well. I figured the plating wasn’t going to last long with it like that and then there’s the performance factor.
It was like a punch in the gut to see the cylinder like that. Oh well.

Regarding how it runs...It’s definitely one of my top 5 favorite saws. Maybe top two. But then I may be a bit biased, since I’m a diehard homelite fan. It definitely has plenty of torque. As you probably know, many of these older saws don’t run near as fast as most of the newer saws these days, but it more than makes up for it with power. Don’t get me wrong, it’s not a slow poke. It runs free between 10 and 11k rpms and 7-8k in the wood and handles just about any bar I ever need. A 28” bar lives on it most of the time. When necessary, I have a 36” with a full skip chain that I can throw on it and it rarely slows down. It’s hard to be in a bad mood about anything whenever I have an excuse to pull it off the shelf and put it to work. I’m working on restoring a C-72 right now. I’m looking forward to getting in some wood soon! If I’m lucky, my next restore project will be an XP. Size all depends on how my luck pans out ;-)

 

[drf255]

Thank you for the replies and suggestions. I kinda figured it would be risky and was potentially scrap. I thought maybe smoothing the edges near the transfers would be a possibility, but also figured that performance and longevity would definitely be affected.

I have replacement cylinder on the way now. I just hate to scrap something that is nearly extinct already. It’s in really great shape otherwise, so I may send it off to get replated.

There used to be a shop around the corner here that could do just about any kind of treatment a person could ever need to an engine part. However they closed about a year ago along with most machine shops around here.

Anyone have suggestions for a reputable company?

Much appreciated!

U.S. Chrome is about the only one left that will plate a blind cylinder. The unremovable head on the cylinder requires special finishing tools after the actual plating process that many shops do not have.

That jug really looks bad. You can carefully hit every edge of flaked plating with a diamond ball and then scotchbrite hone. I’d be worried about more flaking off though. The flaked areas are where no ring crosses.