Slow chainsaw milling/ pushing hard

[Stonewoodiron]

Just wanted to post a recent experience which may help someone. May already be on here in some form,but, here it goes. I remember Bob L (a member) giving me chain advice earlier in my chainsaw milling adventures. He said he hand files in the field and then grinds in the shop- I now know why. I always hand filed in the field. This worked for maybe 80 or so 20”-30” slabs (all hardwood). Eventually I found myself pushing hard, really hard, to get through the cut. Checked rakers, thought it was the log, sharpened and resharpened- nothing seemed to help. Saw a milling video by “Flowering Elbow” on YouTube. Suggested that the hand filing would basically over time change your tooth angles and stall the cut. I purchased a $200 ish Oregon grinder, set the appropriate angles, and ground the chain (all teeth even). Didn’t touch rakers. Went to test on some 28” black cherry and the saw basically pulled itself through the cut. 2 days earlier I was having to put lots of weight into the same log. I can’t believe I waited so long to get a grinder. Basically, as I now see it, resetting the teeth to same and proper angles is a necessity and needs to be carried out periodically. Hope this helps someone

 

[merc_man]

Just curious, what are the angles your grinder is set at. I did mine on the grinder and it works good but was wonderingnif my angle were propper.

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[blades]

for milling 10deg across the top is mostly quoted, 60 down ( 30 deg cutting angle of top plate). Most MFG chain comes at 25 or 30 deg across the top. same 60 down. Stilh is mostly 25 deg across. size of wheel used on machines vs type of chain makes some différance as well. 1/8wheel on 3/8 full height gives way too much gullet depth into the tooth as an example. how you set the centerline of the wheel vs tooth also has some play in things but not all units are adjustable ( vise location ) That center line also changes as the wheel wears.

 

[Stonewoodiron]

Just curious, what are the angles your grinder is set at. I did mine on the grinder and it works good but was wonderingnif my angle were propper.

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I used 30*. I’ve tried all angles from 10-35 with little to no difference seen in finish and speed. I like the fact I can change the angles easily on the grinder for experimentation.

 

[Stonewoodiron]

I used 30*. I’ve tried all angles from 10-35 with little to no difference seen in finish and speed. I like the fact I can change the angles easily on the grinder for experimentation.

And I used the 55* on the top Didn’t bother to get the exact factory angles of the chain. Just eyed it up and had at it. No patience for that. Im not setting up to machine aircraft ball bearings!

 

[thenne1713]

Know this is old, but just a few thoughts: If you can perfectly match the existing angle, then STONE/FILE will touch across FULL face, and with just a LIGHT touch, restore the cutting edge. LOGOSOL recommends, and I agree, "sharpen BEFORE the cutter gets dull" = light touch to restore. If stone/ file angle does NOT match, then you only sharpen PART OF THE CUTTING EDGE, or you have to hog off more metal to get back to the full edge being sharpened= (RISK of) overheating with grinder = uneven length on cutters= MORE vibration.

 

[Stonewoodiron]

Know this is old, but just a few thoughts: If you can perfectly match the existing angle, then STONE/FILE will touch across FULL face, and with just a LIGHT touch, restore the cutting edge. LOGOSOL recommends, and I agree, "sharpen BEFORE the cutter gets dull" = light touch to restore. If stone/ file angle does NOT match, then you only sharpen PART OF THE CUTTING EDGE, or you have to hog off more metal to get back to the full edge being sharpened= (RISK of) overheating with grinder = uneven length on cutters= MORE vibration.

Yeah, regular sharpening is key. I usually hand file between every other slab when it’s large and dry. Every 5 or 6 when small and green. Still, after 25 or so sharpening sessions, angles may not be quite equal or same. I suppose I could use guides and try really hard to hand file only for the life of the chain but very easy to take it off, clean and lubricate the saw, clean the chain, and give it a nice true sharpening. And, yes, the downside of the grinder is heat. I find I mitigate it pretty well though through a light touch.

 

[scor440tk]

Just wanted to post a recent experience which may help someone. May already be on here in some form,but, here it goes. I remember Bob L (a member) giving me chain advice earlier in my chainsaw milling adventures. He said he hand files in the field and then grinds in the shop- I now know why. I always hand filed in the field. This worked for maybe 80 or so 20”-30” slabs (all hardwood). Eventually I found myself pushing hard, really hard, to get through the cut. Checked rakers, thought it was the log, sharpened and resharpened- nothing seemed to help. Saw a milling video by “Flowering Elbow” on YouTube. Suggested that the hand filing would basically over time change your tooth angles and stall the cut. I purchased a $200 ish Oregon grinder, set the appropriate angles, and ground the chain (all teeth even). Didn’t touch rakers. Went to test on some 28” black cherry and the saw basically pulled itself through the cut. 2 days earlier I was having to put lots of weight into the same log. I can’t believe I waited so long to get a grinder. Basically, as I now see it, resetting the teeth to same and proper angles is a necessity and needs to be carried out periodically. Hope this helps someone

12 volt grinders are available

 

[scor440tk]

12 volt grinders are available and cordless sun joe sharpeners and maybe others

 

[scor440tk]

Just wanted to post a recent experience which may help someone. May already be on here in some form,but, here it goes. I remember Bob L (a member) giving me chain advice earlier in my chainsaw milling adventures. He said he hand files in the field and then grinds in the shop- I now know why. I always hand filed in the field. This worked for maybe 80 or so 20”-30” slabs (all hardwood). Eventually I found myself pushing hard, really hard, to get through the cut. Checked rakers, thought it was the log, sharpened and resharpened- nothing seemed to help. Saw a milling video by “Flowering Elbow” on YouTube. Suggested that the hand filing would basically over time change your tooth angles and stall the cut. I purchased a $200 ish Oregon grinder, set the appropriate angles, and ground the chain (all teeth even). Didn’t touch rakers. Went to test on some 28” black cherry and the saw basically pulled itself through the cut. 2 days earlier I was having to put lots of weight into the same log. I can’t believe I waited so long to get a grinder. Basically, as I now see it, resetting the teeth to same and proper angles is a necessity and needs to be carried out periodically. Hope this helps someone

Also you can buy a 12 volt or cordless grinder

 

[WouldButcher]

Just wanted to post a recent experience which may help someone. May already be on here in some form,but, here it goes. I remember Bob L (a member) giving me chain advice earlier in my chainsaw milling adventures. He said he hand files in the field and then grinds in the shop- I now know why. I always hand filed in the field. This worked for maybe 80 or so 20”-30” slabs (all hardwood). Eventually I found myself pushing hard, really hard, to get through the cut. Checked rakers, thought it was the log, sharpened and resharpened- nothing seemed to help. Saw a milling video by “Flowering Elbow” on YouTube. Suggested that the hand filing would basically over time change your tooth angles and stall the cut. I purchased a $200 ish Oregon grinder, set the appropriate angles, and ground the chain (all teeth even). Didn’t touch rakers. Went to test on some 28” black cherry and the saw basically pulled itself through the cut. 2 days earlier I was having to put lots of weight into the same log. I can’t believe I waited so long to get a grinder. Basically, as I now see it, resetting the teeth to same and proper angles is a necessity and needs to be carried out periodically. Hope this helps someone

What angle are you grinding ?

 

[BobL]

What angle are you grinding ?

I've probably been lucky but apart from a chain where I mangled some cutters after hitting a piece of metal and I replaced a short section of the chain and then used a grinder to get the new cutters to approx the same length as the rest of the others I haven't used a grinder on any of my chains since about 2010.

 

[Stonewoodiron]

What angle are you grinding ?

I believe I did 25*

 

[Stonewoodiron]

I've probably been lucky but apart from a chain where I mangled some cutters after hitting a piece of metal and I replaced a short section of the chain and then used a grinder to get the new cutters to approx the same length as the rest of the others I haven't used a grinder on any of my chains since about 2010.

Hey Bob! Been a while How are you sharpening? Freehand or file guide?

 

[BobL]

Hey Bob! Been a while How are you sharpening? Freehand or file guide?

Haven't been using chainsaws much as I'm driving a couple of Band saw mills. For chainsaws I use the standard Oregon guides. They come in different file sizes, and get extra control over hook by using a size file larger or smaller than the guide size. In Aussie hardwood it pays to have a touch less hook otherwise the cutters blunt too quickly.

 

[Stonewoodiron]

Haven't been using chainsaws much as I'm driving a couple of Band saw mills. For chainsaws I use the standard Oregon guides. They come in different file sizes, and get extra control over hook by using a size file larger or smaller than the guide size. In Aussie hardwood it pays to have a touch less hook otherwise the cutters blunt too quickly.

I’ve experienced that here too. They almost fold over in our harder stuff when it’s dry