TMAR
ArboristSite Lurker
That depends on what you are using for the rails.
small bandsaw mill
- Thread starter gene1605
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That depends on what you are using for the rails.
joeblacky
ArboristSite Member
done a little more research, and decided on V groove gate wheels running on angle, should be a smooth method
TMAR
ArboristSite Lurker
Sounds good!
AndrewMoizer
ArboristSite Lurker
Awesome
Just found this topic, lots of great info here. I've had it in the back of my mind to build a bandsaw head to go on the track for my new (to me) CSM that I'm just starting with. Sure looking forward to following everyone's progress.
My immediate need is to update the log dogs on my track. It looks like adding some like this would be a great (and simple) solution. I'd welcome any insight on how they work out in use.
cheers,
Andrew
Just found this topic, lots of great info here. I've had it in the back of my mind to build a bandsaw head to go on the track for my new (to me) CSM that I'm just starting with. Sure looking forward to following everyone's progress.
My immediate need is to update the log dogs on my track. It looks like adding some like this would be a great (and simple) solution. I'd welcome any insight on how they work out in use.
cheers,
Andrew
AndrewMoizer
ArboristSite Lurker
Log Dogs?
I'd like to make some log dogs like these to fit on my CSM.
I scaled this picture as best as I could and would like to make sure I've got things right.
Cross tube is 1" sch 40 pipe
Sliding tubes are 1 1/4" sch 40 pipe, 3" long.
Flats that swing upright (must be an official name for them) are 1 1/2" flat stock, I'm guessing 1/4" thick. The one with the point on it is 6" long, the other one is about 6 1/2" long.
The low points I think are 1/4" thick and maybe 1/2" high. I think they're flat stock cut at an angle, but aren't quite sure. Would these be something harder like perhaps keystock?
The point at the end of the upright is harder to figure out. In the painted picture it almost looks like a chunk of 3/8 round bar, but in this pic there seems to be an edge to it. It almost looks like a ground off woodruff key. Regardless it seems that all the points stick out about 3/8".
It looks like the tightening bolts are 1/2" with 3/8" round stock handles.
Oh, and the stop bar that stops things swinging down too much is 3/4" round.
Perhaps Gene, or someone else, could fill in any gaps.
My plan is to weld a few of these up with mounts that I can bolt to the 3" cross pipes on my frame. I'm also more than open to other suggestions.
cheers, (and thanks in advance)
Andrew
I'd like to make some log dogs like these to fit on my CSM.
I scaled this picture as best as I could and would like to make sure I've got things right.
Cross tube is 1" sch 40 pipe
Sliding tubes are 1 1/4" sch 40 pipe, 3" long.
Flats that swing upright (must be an official name for them) are 1 1/2" flat stock, I'm guessing 1/4" thick. The one with the point on it is 6" long, the other one is about 6 1/2" long.
The low points I think are 1/4" thick and maybe 1/2" high. I think they're flat stock cut at an angle, but aren't quite sure. Would these be something harder like perhaps keystock?
The point at the end of the upright is harder to figure out. In the painted picture it almost looks like a chunk of 3/8 round bar, but in this pic there seems to be an edge to it. It almost looks like a ground off woodruff key. Regardless it seems that all the points stick out about 3/8".
It looks like the tightening bolts are 1/2" with 3/8" round stock handles.
Oh, and the stop bar that stops things swinging down too much is 3/4" round.
Perhaps Gene, or someone else, could fill in any gaps.
My plan is to weld a few of these up with mounts that I can bolt to the 3" cross pipes on my frame. I'm also more than open to other suggestions.
cheers, (and thanks in advance)
Andrew
mikeb1079
ArboristSite Operative
here's my version:
just angle iron cut into flat stock (didn't have any). drill oversize hole in sliding piece and weld nut over hole. weld round stock to nut for t handle. my bolts are too long and you only need one t handle to tighten the dog down. i thought i'd need two but one is plenty. just make sure to orient it like gene does so when the long dogs are horizontal the short dogs are upright and the t handle is pointing down. otherwise the long dogs will hit the cross members of the bed and you have to grind out your weld and re do it (when its 100 degress with 80% humidity don't ask me how i know that). :msp_rolleyes: originally the tall dogs were 12" tall but they seemed to be in the way a bit so i cut em down to 8". the shorties are like 5/8"
just angle iron cut into flat stock (didn't have any). drill oversize hole in sliding piece and weld nut over hole. weld round stock to nut for t handle. my bolts are too long and you only need one t handle to tighten the dog down. i thought i'd need two but one is plenty. just make sure to orient it like gene does so when the long dogs are horizontal the short dogs are upright and the t handle is pointing down. otherwise the long dogs will hit the cross members of the bed and you have to grind out your weld and re do it (when its 100 degress with 80% humidity don't ask me how i know that). :msp_rolleyes: originally the tall dogs were 12" tall but they seemed to be in the way a bit so i cut em down to 8". the shorties are like 5/8"
Last edited:
mrstihl
ArboristSite Lurker
from denmark
hi nice mill you have built but how long is your sawband and can you not send me some pictures of details if you know what i mean, i`m not very god at english but i hobe you would help me. Jan Schultz
hi nice mill you have built but how long is your sawband and can you not send me some pictures of details if you know what i mean, i`m not very god at english but i hobe you would help me. Jan Schultz
mikeb1079
ArboristSite Operative
hey jan the band length isn't that important. there's plenty of blade suppliers that can make bands to any length. the mill i built uses longer bands (b/c i found some larger wheels) but most mills this size use somewhere around 158" i believe. gene never produced dimensioned drawings but that's not that important either. look close at his pics and you can figure it out. 
mrstihl
ArboristSite Lurker
hey jan the band length isn't that important. there's plenty of blade suppliers that can make bands to any length. the mill i built uses longer bands (b/c i found some larger wheels) but most mills this size use somewhere around 158" i believe. gene never produced dimensioned drawings but that's not that important either. look close at his pics and you can figure it out.
Thank you thats help me alot but the 158" what is that in CM (158 * 2,5=) is it like that or ? but else i thank you alot
redheadwoodshed
Freebird
Jan, 158 inches = 401.3cm.
mikeb1079
ArboristSite Operative
jan take gene up on his generous offer. :msp_thumbup:
gene i'm not sure if i ever got the chance to personally thank you for posting your mill and ideas. it led me to build my own mill and it was both challenging and rewarding. i've used the mill a ton and have had a lot of fun and met some nice folks too! thanks much!
gene i'm not sure if i ever got the chance to personally thank you for posting your mill and ideas. it led me to build my own mill and it was both challenging and rewarding. i've used the mill a ton and have had a lot of fun and met some nice folks too! thanks much!
Old Hilly
ArboristSite Operative
Yes, Gene is what we call down here "a top bloke". I contacted him when this post was new for some advice on the mill I was going to build and he was more than helpful with all the advice and his experience of building his design of sawmill. I chose a slightly diferent design using cast 26" bandwheels and a diferent head design but there are a lot of Gene's ideas in my design. There are some items in his design that are easy to find up there in Alaska and North America but are much harder to find down here where I live so my design centered around what was available locally or I had available to me cheap.
Gene, thanks again, Old Mate.
Dennis.
Gene, thanks again, Old Mate.
Dennis.
pecker pole mill
Hello Gene
I found your mill on you tube, I just about giving up on homemade band sawmill, most too big, and look unrebilable. Yours is sized right for me, looks very reliable, and well designed. I will build your mill, using all new material, copying your design as accurately as possible, and power with 13 hp chonda. I thank you for your design, photos, and information you posted. If you would be graceous enough to send me your plans it would greatly expedite and improve my project.
Thank
Jm Nelson
[email protected]
707 365 8616
p.s. Your PM box is full
Hello Gene
I found your mill on you tube, I just about giving up on homemade band sawmill, most too big, and look unrebilable. Yours is sized right for me, looks very reliable, and well designed. I will build your mill, using all new material, copying your design as accurately as possible, and power with 13 hp chonda. I thank you for your design, photos, and information you posted. If you would be graceous enough to send me your plans it would greatly expedite and improve my project.
Thank
Jm Nelson
[email protected]
707 365 8616
p.s. Your PM box is full
Old Hilly
ArboristSite Operative
Jim, almost all of Gene's plans are, as he mentioned in a much earlier post, in his head. Some of the photographs he sent me had dimensions of some of the smaller parts but I think that almost evry mill he builds is slightly diferent. He modified one of his mill designs to operate as a "hot-wire cutter" for shaping styrene insulation sheets. Get rid of the band and wheel assy. and fit a length of resistance wire driven by a small welder. You have a hot wire cutter. Simple enough if you already have the frame and chasis already designed.
Some of the parts he has available up there in Alaska just are not as easy to find in what was once this little ex Penal Colony down here in NSW, Australia so I had to improvise a fair bit. Added to this, the timber I wanted to cut was larger than Gene has allowed for so things were enlarged and strengthened. Gene used 12" rim size trailer tyres (sometimes I think he uses 10") for his band wheels but I used 26" cast iron bandsaw wheels. Gene's design runs the drive belt directly onto one of the band-wheels, my design uses an idler shaft so I can get more speed reduction and drive the bandwheel from the back-side of the mill-head frame. I copied Gene's band guides but used threaded rod to adjust the blade tension on the non-driven wheel side. Gene uses a steel tape measure to set his cutting depth but my math is pretty poor so I used a digital readout for the depth of cut. Just wind down the required No. of MM's and start sawing. Bring the haed back to the start, zero the DRO, wind down the depth of the next board and away you go.
You can actually get a reasonable idea of the size of Gene's mill by measuring the size of the drive wheels and then working out the sacle of the photo. It took me a few tries but I eventually got it worked out. Then I changed evrything because if the materials I had available.
Good luck with your build, it can be frustrating but when that first board comes off the log........
Wow! You did it!:msp_thumbsup:
Dennis.
Some of the parts he has available up there in Alaska just are not as easy to find in what was once this little ex Penal Colony down here in NSW, Australia so I had to improvise a fair bit. Added to this, the timber I wanted to cut was larger than Gene has allowed for so things were enlarged and strengthened. Gene used 12" rim size trailer tyres (sometimes I think he uses 10") for his band wheels but I used 26" cast iron bandsaw wheels. Gene's design runs the drive belt directly onto one of the band-wheels, my design uses an idler shaft so I can get more speed reduction and drive the bandwheel from the back-side of the mill-head frame. I copied Gene's band guides but used threaded rod to adjust the blade tension on the non-driven wheel side. Gene uses a steel tape measure to set his cutting depth but my math is pretty poor so I used a digital readout for the depth of cut. Just wind down the required No. of MM's and start sawing. Bring the haed back to the start, zero the DRO, wind down the depth of the next board and away you go.
You can actually get a reasonable idea of the size of Gene's mill by measuring the size of the drive wheels and then working out the sacle of the photo. It took me a few tries but I eventually got it worked out. Then I changed evrything because if the materials I had available.
Good luck with your build, it can be frustrating but when that first board comes off the log........
Wow! You did it!:msp_thumbsup:
Dennis.
mrstihl
ArboristSite Lurker
5 kw
hello gene can a 5 kw with 2900 rpm do it as well like a honda engine, can i get the same NM on a elektrick motor Jan
hello gene can a 5 kw with 2900 rpm do it as well like a honda engine, can i get the same NM on a elektrick motor Jan
gene1605
ArboristSite Operative
5 kw
Jan 5 kw is about 7 1/2 hp. each will work with a small mill, with small logs.
Gene
Jan 5 kw is about 7 1/2 hp. each will work with a small mill, with small logs.
Gene
Thanks for the infomation Dennis, I plan on building the small mill the one in the video. I get about six feet of snow pack, so need to store the mill inside, and don't have lot room. I was going to build a chain sawmill because all the bandsaw mills I had seen were too big. I was delighted when I found Gene's small mill on you tube, just what I have been looking for, and when video started, he not pushing hard, its working as well as any of the production mills on youtube. I could tell right away Gene had his design optimize way better then any of other designs I had look at.
The small size will work good for me, what does'nt fit the mill is less fire wood i'll have to buy. the photos are great, I setup a slide show, and been studing the details of Gene's and Rail-o-matic mills, for about hour a night last few nights, and I think I get. The height of carriage, looks about 36", and wall thickness looks like 1/8" which is thinner than thought it would be. The wheel bar looks 2x2 .250 wall in the pic of the small mill. The feet I say 28" 2 x 3 x 1/8 angel which is also thin. Gene welds up his carriage post so the width is narrower at the bottom, snap on fit at the feet, I would like to know how much less he jigs up bottom than the top. If I get it, this snap on fit reduces head shake and makes for a solid carriage. Gene has done the R&D , I understand from reading his post that he has a few pages of plans drawn up for the small mill. I would like to get a copy, it will save time and optimize my build.
I have sent santa after the axles, wheels, bearings, pulleys, clutch, and engine. I have most of the steel for carriage in the shop, so santa will only have get rails and few odds & ends. Dennis DRO great idea, they come way down in price last few years.
Gene If I could get your phone # and may be a copy of your plans for the small mill. I would appreciate it, I don't want change any part of your design, its the small details that make it work so well. i just want to copy copy copy!
Thanks
[email protected]
707-365-8616
The small size will work good for me, what does'nt fit the mill is less fire wood i'll have to buy. the photos are great, I setup a slide show, and been studing the details of Gene's and Rail-o-matic mills, for about hour a night last few nights, and I think I get. The height of carriage, looks about 36", and wall thickness looks like 1/8" which is thinner than thought it would be. The wheel bar looks 2x2 .250 wall in the pic of the small mill. The feet I say 28" 2 x 3 x 1/8 angel which is also thin. Gene welds up his carriage post so the width is narrower at the bottom, snap on fit at the feet, I would like to know how much less he jigs up bottom than the top. If I get it, this snap on fit reduces head shake and makes for a solid carriage. Gene has done the R&D , I understand from reading his post that he has a few pages of plans drawn up for the small mill. I would like to get a copy, it will save time and optimize my build.
I have sent santa after the axles, wheels, bearings, pulleys, clutch, and engine. I have most of the steel for carriage in the shop, so santa will only have get rails and few odds & ends. Dennis DRO great idea, they come way down in price last few years.
Gene If I could get your phone # and may be a copy of your plans for the small mill. I would appreciate it, I don't want change any part of your design, its the small details that make it work so well. i just want to copy copy copy!
Thanks
[email protected]
707-365-8616
Old Hilly
ArboristSite Operative
Six feet of packed snow!?!? How do you exist in such cold? Down here we whinge and complain about the cold if we get a decent frost!!!:censored: You lot up there in the far north have got to be tough!
That 5KW electric should do a good job provided you take it easy. The blade needs to be cutting timber, not just getting hot while it skips across the surface. After a little while you will get to know the sound of the blade when it is cutting properly and when it is getting a bit dull.
That 5KW electric should do a good job provided you take it easy. The blade needs to be cutting timber, not just getting hot while it skips across the surface. After a little while you will get to know the sound of the blade when it is cutting properly and when it is getting a bit dull.
gene1605
ArboristSite Operative
small mill
Jim the plans will be mailed today, But remember as Old Hilly said I improve my mills as I go useing the KISS system.
I have plans for Danger Tree I just need a US Mail address
Gene
Jim the plans will be mailed today, But remember as Old Hilly said I improve my mills as I go useing the KISS system.
I have plans for Danger Tree I just need a US Mail address
Gene
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