Snellerized 50 cc shootout

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261 in the smaller wood, the 346/357 in the larger, and I think that saw would have done better with a slightly lighter touch, if that makes sense, less aggressive bite, perhaps depth gauge height tweaking.
 
Hey Ryman, how long did you say it took for your first 346 to wake up? Your saws are ported nearly identically, with the stronger one having just a little more blowdown.

I'm still thinking there might be something up with that particular 261. For those that are reading, that saw already had a ported topend on it. It didn't ruin as strong a his old one did. I swapped the old topend onto this saw. It picked up, but I still think it's lacking a little. Unfortunately, machines are like that though.
 
Hey Ryman, how long did you say it took for your first 346 to wake up? Your saws are ported nearly identically, with the stronger one having just a little more blowdown.

I'm still thinking there might be something up with that particular 261. For those that are reading, that saw already had a ported topend on it. It didn't ruin as strong a his old one did. I swapped the old topend onto this saw. It picked up, but I still think it's lacking a little. Unfortunately, machines are like that though.

I'd say my first 346 took 20 tanks to wake up so the new one may need a little more time. I figured the 261 would come out on top in the bigger wood too so I'm a little surprised it wanted a lighter touch.

They all had 7 pin rim sprockets for those who were asking.
 
All three look to be nice running saws. I am surprised the 261 didn't shine in bigger wood too, but still looks to be able to put plenty of wood in the stove. First of the 346's look to be the strongest, but surely that will change as the other breaks in.
 
I'm still thinking there might be something up with that particular 261. For those that are reading, that saw already had a ported topend on it. It didn't ruin as strong a his old one did. I swapped the old topend onto this saw. It picked up, but I still think it's lacking a little. Unfortunately, machines are like that though.

I agree Brad. It did not seem as strong as some of the others you have posted videos of; but the difference would not be noticed by most end users,,,such as myself. Nice work on all 3 by the way.
 
I'm just now where I can watch your vids. Me thinks you'd better take good care of your 1st 346:) You might be able to make a significant difference in cut times with tweaking the tune, but these are your work saws, and the tunes sound great for what you use them for. Glad you're able to put these saws to good use. I value feedback from guys like you using them everyday:clap:
 
Nice.

I'm glad you started a new thread or I may have missed this.
 
Just tested in 13" ash. Best 1 cut times

ported 50cc 346 7T 325 narrow kerf chain 17.00

stock 50cc 346 with stock muffler 7T 3/8 15.09

ported 50cc 346 same as above 7T 3/8 12.22 same chain run on stock 346. ;)

The narrow kerf chain isn't very effective on those saws. Also, for a relevant comparison, you should have tried .325x8 as well, and used the same basic chain model in both .325 and 3/8 - like Oregon LPX or Stihl RSC/RS. :msp_wink:
 
The narrow kerf chain isn't very effective on those saws. Also, for a relevant comparison, you should have tried .325x8 as well, and used the same basic chain model in both .325 and 3/8 - like Oregon LPX or Stihl RSC/RS. :msp_wink:

The narrow kerf set up was the owners set up. I was just showing him that was a poor choice for his ported saw and the stock 346 50cc too. That is the reason 7 325 was run, if he had a 8 325 it would have been run. :msp_rolleyes:

narrow kerf to me is for underpowered saws that dont have power to pull a good chain.
 
We've done similar testing using Stihl RS chain. The .325 came out on top with every saw except the 5100. For equal gearing, you have to use a 8-pin .325 and a 7-pin 3/8. Stihl .325 RS is better than most other .325.
 

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