Solo vs. Husky

Arborist Forum

Help Support Arborist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

jdrslyr

ArboristSite Lurker
Joined
Jun 30, 2003
Messages
11
Reaction score
0
Location
Villa Rica, Georgia
Is there any comparison between a Husky 353 and a Solo 651 SP? I have been looking at buying the 353 but I noticed the 651 SP has more HP and weighs less. The Solo is also about $30 cheaper.

Thanks,
Jeremy
 
Hi Jeremy, I don`t believe that the 651SP is more powerful than the 353, in fact the 651SP isn`t any kind of a standout in terms of performance. I`ve had a few Solos and they are as well made as any in a comparable model, and the 651P is reputed to be a real screamer compared to other 3 cube saws, but it is really a different saw than the SP. I think the SP is more on par with the Husky 350 than the 353. The 350 is a good saw but it is not built to the same standard as the 353 which is more closely related to the 346xp in terms of construction and components.

Buy the 353 or it`s prettier cousin the Jonsered 2152 and don`t look back. Barring the rare exception, you will be very happy. BTW, what 's the going price for a 353 where you're at?

ps, dont forget to adjust the carb after you modify the muffler.

Russ
 
The 651 SP is not being listed on the distributers sheet as a current model any longer from where I set. They have the 650 and the 651, two entirely different saws, one pro, one medium duty.

Would you want to buy the model that is going away? I would recommend that you buy the 650 or the 651.
 
Last edited:
The 651 SP is rated 3.6 hp, the 350/351 Husky 3.1 I think.

Anyhow, my 651SP has been worked over by Dennis Greffard, same as my 346XP and Shindaiwa 488. And it cuts well, is pretty torquey, having the largest motor of the three saws. But the other two both easily outcut it. In other words, nice but not impressive. I highly doubt that it will cut with either saw in stock form, but it should outdo the 351/350.

When I bought it, I thought I was getting the highly regarded 651Pro.
 
The Solo 651SP is a good saw, but the Husky 353 benefits from the latest Husqvarna design updates. It has a side chain adjuster, and a magnesium crankcase & chain cover. The top cover is secured with 4 clips that allow easy removal for access to the sparkplug & air filter.

This saw feels smooth in a cut, possibly due to the 95 VP chain (.050 & .325 pitch) and the anti-vibe mount system.

I have a Husky 351 (last year’s model) and really like it. Note: I have never run a Solo 651Sp – had a 645 and hated the oil & gas caps. They had to be tightened almost to the point of stripping.

I agree with Russ. The red swede’s are prettier, but if orange will do, the Husky’s seem to run about $30 less for the same saw.

Mike
 
in short ,u cant believe every stat given on these saws by the manufacturer.
also ,im thinking ,that cutting setup is
as important, as any other one aspect
as to speed and possibly ease of use...lets see where did i read that before.lol jmo.im experimenting in that area now. so i might have fact based opinions later...
in other wds things ive seen ,and not just heard or read...dont mean, ill be right ,but at least, ill have, on the job info to go on...ill give my findings,if certain theories im leaning to, hold water.
in fact ill even give them ,if they dont hold water:)
 
The Solo 651SP is comparable to the 653. It is a semi-pro saw.

The Solo 650 is comparable to the Husky 350(probably designed to compete directly against it in the market). These are med. duty, homeowner type saws.

The two year commercial warranty sold me on these saws and I have been very pleased with their performance ever since.

I know RB was kinda disappointed with his SP after modifications were made. Is it really fair to make a comparison between a group of modified saws while discussing stock?
IMO, that SP stock is a great little 3.0ci and I'd run it against any of the aforementioned saws. Then again, I'm a Solo nut. The 651PRO is still king of the 3.0ci class.
 
Joker, I can get a 353 for around $325 online at southwestfastener.com. The Jonny is a few dollars more, but you can't pick bar & chain length on the Jonny (at least from this particular retailer). They sell the Jonny only with a 20" bar & chain & all I need is 18". I don't know how much difference the extra bar length would make performance-wise, but why pay for something you don't need even if it is only a couple of dollars more. By the way, don't condemn me for buying online. My local dealer wants almost $100 more to buy the same saw from him. I like to support local businesses as much as possible, but the extra $100 seems a little much especially considering I work on my own equipment.

Thanks,
Jeremy
 
Solo 651P(Pro-all red) & 651 SP (Semi Pro- red & black)are basically the same saw.

651P has a closed transfer port cylinder for more power.
651SP has the open transfer port

651SP were $299.99 on sale for a short time.
Stronger construction, less vibration, more torque than the Husky 353.
 
Hi SawMan not trying to be argumentative but even the Solo website says that the 651P and SP are different. Read the product description and you will see where they extoll the virtues of the mag alloy crankcase of the P then later on explain how the SP has a composite crankcase. What this tells me is that the SP has the same cylinder/crankcase arrangement as the Solo 647/654, Stihl 025/029, and Husky 340/345 just to name a few. The arrangement here is to have the cylinder and crankcase top half be one piece with a cap(which is the lower case half) holding the crank and bearings captive. There is no way that this arrangement is optimal for longevity and Solo even calls it a "farm, home, and country version of the 651 series". Sorry, but any saw built like this should never be priced over $300 because it won`t last long enough to justify the price if it does cost more, and for a little over $300, $330 to be exact, you can get a Husky 353 which has a magnesium crankcase built in the conventional manner of two vertically split halves fully and radially supporting premium high speed bearings on a stout crankshaft. The Husky also has a superior antivibe system which is proven by machines that objectively rate them, not to mention superior product support through the larger dealer network that Husky has.

The 651SPs that I have seen and run were on par performance wise with the 350 and 351 Huskies, the 353 has more jam and that`s a fact.

Not trying to be a smarta$$ but have you ever seen or run a 651P? From what I understand many Solo dealers have not even been able to get a 651P to sell. I`m also wondering if you have had both models of 651 apart to compare basic construction and quality? looking for some feedback, not an angry argument.

Russ
 
Well I just looked at the PDF for the 651P and SP at the Solo site and it appears that I am wrong in my assumption of how the cylinder and crankcase is arranged. My apologies. If the PDF is accurate, both models of 651 have a conventional style crankcase but it is hard to be 100% sure when the whole PDF is not accessable. A few apparent differences are the crank seals, probably to accomodate the different case materials, and the pistons. Surprisingly the PDF lists the same part numbers for the crank, bearings, and CYLINDERS, but shows different numbers for the pistons?

OK, so how does the composite crankcase of the SP fare with thermal cycling of dissimilar materials?

Russ
 
Some IPL's are wrong, and some just hard to read, so it's tough sometimes to be 'on the money'.

Cylinder/piston assemblies are different from new.

Sometimes makers will create two different models that are the same basically except,... for some things like better mufflers, cylinder/piston assemblies, colors, carbs, etc.

That let's them have two different price points for more sales. Creating Pro & Semi Pro (Farmer, Rancher,Wood Boss) models.
Good smart marketing as many buyers want something like a Pro model, but don't need the power, or bells & whistles, and price.

However, replacement parts are sometimes reduced to only one type to save inventory costs.
Ie., if a 651SP(Semi Pro) cylinder is needed, the replacement part could be that for a 651P(Pro).
Sometimes both are available for a couple years till inventory levels drop, then only one is made available.

The different pistons #'s can sometimes be based on piston 'fit size', ie., A, B, C,....etc.
Say the part # is, '12345' for an 'A'.
'B' could be #12346, 'C' is then #12347.
 
ooops... 651 vs 651SP Solo

I just started a new thread since I couldn't find this thread again- some one just pointed that out to me- oh well... I was using the wrong search key words (looking for 651 in the title).

so here is is again

Hi all...
I have been away from the site for quite a while since I have been too busy with everything else. I popped on the other day and read something about the Solo 651 and 651SP... I couldn't find it again so I started a new thread. I hope that I don't get boo'ed off because of that. Anyway, as many of you know I am a real fan of Solo saws and I believe that they are the most under rated "good" saw out there these days. I just happened to have a few of these 651's and 651SP saws new. The major difference apart from the red top and some other minor differences is this:

1) 651 has a totally different piston (short and cropped skirt) same jug
2) the 651 has a electronically controlled variable advance ignition module (as opposed to the standard electronic ignition on the 651SP
3) The 651 has a rim drive as opposed to a spur sprocket on the 651SP
4) The 651 has a magnesium sprocket cover and different chain catch arrangement- the 651 has a composite side cover.
I think that the 651 will smoke the Stihl 026 in a straight on competition.

here are some pics of the 2... I have the .pdf parts lists I can email to any one wanting them.
[email protected]

<img src=http://home.insightbb.com/~ss/solo651s.JPG>
 
jsakkema1,

Nice pix, and explaining more of the differences than I did between the Pro (red) & Semi Pro ( red/black) models.

Buyers can 'see' what they're paying for, and getting for the $$.
I like how DOLMAR, and Solo both color code their saws models.

I'll check back into the cylinder differences, because they might have changed. The piston design alone won't account for the power difference. Would be nice if they only used the Pro cylinder as the only replacement part. Simplifies, and helps keep inventory costs in line.

I was over in Germany at Solo, they were developing some saw, and blower models you're seeing the last few years. Still remember in a test cell, seeing a blower on a table being violently rotated/shook back and forth. Just the thought makes my neck hurt.

How do you like new Solo/DOLMAR 694?
 
Stopped at a Solo Distributor to check out the 651-651SP replacement cylinders, but none in stock.

Did see that the electronic ignitions have been both the same for some time. The change was due to different suppliers, so they should run the same.

Had a 644 years ago, that's the same platform as the 651P, just different displacement. Good, strong saw. Was dropped in the USA due to price.
 
SOLO 651P/651SP

Greetings:

Our town of Palacios has recently had a date with hurricane Claudette; never seen so many trees and limbs on the ground. My SOLO 651SP got one heck of a workout. The saw never quit for 4 days, but I have some observations. The 20" bar is a little long for this saw. The lugging power is good, but not great. The oiler never stopped or fouled shut. The clutch seems a little weak. RPMs compared to the STIHLs aroung me was a little lower. I am very happy with the performance of this saw, but would like a little more oompf (is that how you spell it?).

I have a parts breakdown for both the 651SP and 651P. The only differences (if I am reading it right) is the piston, main seal, spur for the SP and the clutch (2 lobes for the SP and 3 lobes for the P). I was wondering, could the SP be converted to a P at all for a reasonable price? If so, how much? I would be very interested if this could be done. Thanks to all.

All the Best,
John

P.S. -- The whole town smell like a very old southern forest just after a rain.
 
Thacket,
Could be done, but would it be worth it?
Piston will give a little more power. Parts & labor > $50-60.
Floating rim sprocket assembly. Parts & labor > $20-23.
Clutch will increase skid speed, would be 1st thing to upgrade. Can use orgininal spur sprocket, and just change clutch.
Parts & labor > $47-55.
Seal not needed.
Total about > $117 -138.
??? What do you do with used parts?
Perhaps it's better to trade the saw for a Pro model?
 
Hi Saw Man,

I agree that it might be a little labor intensive, but I got the 651SP for about $180 refurbished (SOLO has since raised the price on refurbished saws). If I put in $150 for a total of about $330, I will have a Pro saw for a pretty good price. I bought a floating rim sprocket already so the clutch pack just needs to be changed. Could someone tell me what a new 651P sells for nowadays?

I have never heard the term "skid speed". What does it mean exactly?

I also have another question. I am running .325 chain on this saw. Would there be any working advantage to running regular 3/8" chain on this saw? The .325 works great, but availability around here is limited. Thanks for all of the information.

Best Regards,
John
 
Probably could trade it for more that you paid for it, or at least equal to what you paid for it (in good shape), on a new saw, so you'd still be ahead, have a new saw, with a new warranty.

651SP's (new) were on sale Fall of '02 for $300.

Skid speed is better explained by example. No technical jargon, extended explainations, or splitting hairs,...just the finished result.
A three shoe clutch balances power transfer better, and will stay 'locked up' or slip less (skid less) than a two shoe clutch.
Thereby improving cutting performance.
They also cost more.
 

Latest posts

Back
Top