Some old Blue Homelite XL-12 and Super XL Questions

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bigv

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My father has much the same tool junkie status as I do, unfortunately(or fortunately as I look at it). In the late 60's & early 70's he purchased a Super XL AO and an XL-12 chainsaw. Where he worked in the mountains, they were two weeks pay, when new.

He still has both.

Starting in the 1990's, he would buy running and non-running larger Homelites - there was basically 3 criteria for purchase: (1) they were cheap (2)large CC's (3) old enough to be the Carolina Blue Homelite paint.

The result is that in addition to the two saws he bought new he has 7 blue XL's of varying model, and 1 red XL that was originally blue- I have reason to believe it was a factory changeover saw.

I had found a couple of the old, brown Atom Electronic Ignition modules at a flea market, and I bought them. I converted his two old saws to electronic ignition, and then I picked out a nice looking Super XL AO and redid the carb-it had been a Tillotson saw that someone attempted a Zama swap on. I rebuilt the Tillotson, had a hell of a time with the Reed valves, and finally became confident the carb was okay.

Well, the points and condensor were shot, and no shop I called had them or wanted to order them, so I replaced them with the last Atom kit.

I got the saw running, and was beautiful. I found a ring pack for it that would work, and re-ringed it and the saw is basically better than anything new. For extra security, I should replace the pulse line, but haven't yet.

However, here are my questions:

(1)Now that Atom no longer produces electronic ignition modules, which is the best substitute for the Atom ? If there is no difference, where can I purchase a module the cheapest ?

(2)I've used Chrysler Ice Blue(non-metallic) to repaint one of the saws and it is close, but it isn't the Original Homelite Blue. Does anyone have a Ditzler or PPG code for the Homelite blue paint ?

Thank you.
 
Answer for number 1 is to just use first a soft and then a hard arkansas stone to grind and polish the contact points. I have not failed yet to get a fat blue spark out of some thirty old saws I've gone thru. I did have to replace the coil on two or three because it was bad. But, in order for an Atom module to work, you have to have a good coil to begin with.

On number 2: I've tried to duplicate the Homelite blue but nothing off the shelf has been close enuff.
 
I've tried the Arkansas stone method, but with the humidity and weather changes we have in the southern Appalachian mountains, the points are no longer worth the hassle of fooling with. They rust, chaff, corrode, and stick like hell here.
 
does anyone know what year Homelite used black decals on the xl-12 . I'm restoring one now and it had the black and white one on it .
 
If you want to go the electronic chip route The Nova 2 I have found the most reliable beware of the ones with chevron ribs on the case as i've had them just go completely dead
 

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