Sort of a tangent to the Stihl spark plug size difference in same saws ?

[ZeroJunk]

Why did they change the flywheel sides crankcase so that a new version uses 4MM screws to hold the ignition module and the earlier versions were 5 MM.
Surely It couldn't be the cost of the screw.

 

[lone wolf]

Why did they change the flywheel sides crankcase so that a new version uses 4MM screws to hold the ignition module and the earlier versions were 5 MM.
Surely It couldn't be the cost of the screw.

Only guess would be that it's part of an overall weight reduction scheme!

 

[OM617YOTA]

Surely It couldn't be the cost of the screw.

Why not? Save a penny a screw, or a fraction of a penny, adds up over enough saws.

 

[ZeroJunk]

Only guess would be that it's part of an overall weight reduction scheme!

Don't know. MS441 was saw I was referring to BTW. And, the new side fits fine, you just have to use 4 MM screws. The original module is not sized for that, but doesn't seem to matter. Saw runs fine as long as they hold.

But, you have to be careful. My dumb ass has stripped 4 mm screws on modules using a Dewalt driver. Absentminded.

 

[lone wolf]

Don't know. MS441 was saw I was referring to BTW. And, the new side fits fine, you just have to use 4 MM screws. The original module is not sized for that, but doesn't seem to matter. Saw runs fine as long as they hold.

But, you have to be careful. My dumb ass has stripped 4 mm screws on modules using a Dewalt driver. Absentminded.

My Milwaukee driver never stripped anything.

 

[ZeroJunk]

My Milwaukee driver never stripped anything.

Well, you can set the thing for whatever torque. I suppose a pro would set it according to the specs.
Most everything I do is 5MM. But, I think the Dewalt would ring a 5 MM off if you just kept banging on it.

So, get a feel for it. If you are used to 5's which is most everything, and some sixes, when you get to 4's be careful. Or, you will have some more work to do than necessary.

 

[pioneerguy600]

I learned a long time ago not to do final tightening with an impact tool, either a torque wrench or calibrated wrist and that eliminated breakage. Early on it was air powered Ingersoll Rand or Snap On but they were for heavier fasteners on heavy machinery, removal was usually ok but I have sheared off 3/4" dia bolts running a 1" drive IR gun on a tandem truck hoist bracket, the nuts were rusted on quite badly, salt on the roads here play havoc with bare steel bolts.

 

[jblnut]

Nothing to add about the 4mm vs 5mm screw difference but ….. I will ALWAYS final tighten anything important by hand. I use my little 1/4” impact to put lug nuts on cars/trucks and the 1/2” one to do anything larger on the farm. I don’t usually use a torque wrench and go that bonkers but I’ll always hand tighten with a breaker bar. When it feels right it’s tight.

 

[Gord404]

yes, i put them in with my driver lightly but do the final with a wrench

 

[ZeroJunk]

You can control those drivers pretty well when you get used to them. Like backing off before you break the plastic cover the screw is going through on a BR whatever,etc.
But, I'll never use one on a 4mm. Including chain brake covers. I'm thinking some of the oil pumps have gone 4mm as well.