Speed line advice

[1I'dJak]

It looks like I might have a job where it'd be beneficial to set up a speed line. I've never used one and seen a few pics and diagrams but never witnessed one in action. Basically I'm taking out a dying tree over a play ground. there's a live tree right next to it that I could set it up on. Can anyone give me some tips, set-up diagrams or point me in the right direction. I've got a plan but could use some advice as well as any gear i might need on top of my block, pulley, portawrap, lines and micropulley. Thanks

 

[pdqdl]

There are as many fancy ways to do speedlines as you can imagine. I use two basic methods:

1. Use a carabiner to secure the "run line" close to where you are makin your cut. Attach a loopie onto the limb being removed, clip it to the "run line", then cut. Make sure the groundmen have rigged the end tight enough to keep it from sagging into what you are avoiding below. For each cut that you make, move the "run line" to where it is convenient for you to use.

2. Attach the "run line" to a high, secure gin-point, then have the groundmen lower the "run line" down to where you can attach to it. Use a loopie and carabiner as in #1. When you are ready to cut, you can tell the groundmen how tight to pull the "run line" to the anchor point on the ground. Then make your cut, and watch the branch slide away toward the anchor point.

3. (I don't ever use this method: too much equipment) One of the fancier ways of rigging a speed line is by using two lines; one to be the "run line" for supporting the limb, and another as a control line to limit how fast or far the lowered log will travel. This system is particularly equipment intensive because it takes a bunch of pulleys to use, but it offers greater safety and allows for longer traverses over obstacles, Needless to say, using a rope winch of some sort to tension the "run line" becomes more important the further your landing point is from the tree you are cutting.

You will need about 10 loops of different lengths and an equal number of cheap carabiners. If cutting down bigger pieces, be sure to use stronger 'biners & slings.



I use a port-a-wrap attached to the back of the chipper, and the brush tends to hit branch tips first, then they travel further until they stop butt-first pointed toward the chipper. This is a huge advantage over traditional lowering methods! Much less work for the groundmen.

I recently removed a mulberry straddling the property line and all the wires serving two houses. The neighbor had a real fancy deck, lots of landscaping, and the power company would not lower the service line to that house. Using traditional methods of cut-and-lower, we would have been there for hours tromping all over the neighbors yard, getting branches hung up in the wires, and then hauling the pieces out through the gate to the front yard. Instead, we rigged pretty large limbs (200-400lbs) with a loopie as close to their center of gravity as we could. Then we lowered the "run line", attached it to the loopie, and tightened it up again (three guys pulling on the line; take up the slack with the port-a-wrap) until the gin point began to pull strongly towards the chipper. When we cut each branch, the gin point rebounded up and away, the cut limb slid neatly towards the chipper with almost no immediate drop, and we never set foot in the neighbors yard or got caught by the wires. I did attach a tag line to the riskier pieces, just to make sure that we could pull a branch out if it got caught up.

In the end, the job was faster and easier because we could move larger pieces away from the tree without getting hung up. Our drop zone was 20' from the chipper, and we made fewer cuts because the branches could be taken out in larger pieces.

Another advantage: because you can carry a small army of loopies into the tree, you can be set up for the next cut before your groundmen could ever untie and return the end of a lowering line. You can literally send the branches down as fast as you can tie & cut them, until you run out of loopies. This works best if you are moving the "run-line" with you as you move around in the tree, and attach it to the tree where you can make several cuts without re-rigging the "run-line".

Beware: using methods 1 &2 leave you at the mercy of gravity. If lowering logs, they will slide downhill until they crash into the ground, tearing up the turf. If the groundmen are not attentive, you could hammer one pretty good.

Interesting side effect: because the "run line" has a natural shock absorbing effect, it may actually shake the tree less than traditional slide-and-catch methods of lowering the heavier logs. You should be aware that it probably puts huge side loads on the gin-point, so be careful you don't pull your dead tree over using an over-tight speed line. I know, you said you were using another tree for that...

 

[Bearcreek]

Take a look at the illustration for the speedline kit on page 66 of the 2009 Sherrill catalog. It shows some of the techniques described above.

 

[1I'dJak]

thanks pdqdl...anybody have and pics or links to picks? Don't have the sherill catalogue...I guess I can just let the limbs run but will probably have to have a control line (with the porty) for the chunks...

 

[John Paul Sanborn]

From what you are describing you want to anchor in the adjacent tree, so then you need enough line to fishpole the runline up through the crotch and down to the terminal anchor.

since this will put the rig off center with your work, you need tensioning ability on one of the ends of the runline. This is best on the terminal anchor point, so that the controlling groundman can also work brush. A GRCS works great here, because you can maneuver your loads a lot better.

Since the line is off center, you need to use the controlline as a return line, and have an adjustable redirect on the runline using a VT or similar hitch, and an one for an anchor in your tree. The climber can operate this, or a groundman can.

One some laterals you may want to double rig to butt and tip, so a second set of carriage pulleys/carrabiners would be needed.

The biggest problem with trying to do this with the whole crew learning is that it can rapidly become a cluster. I have found that running a zipline first, just letting loads fly on the tensioned line is best, then start adding parts.

Do this with the first, easiest loads. Maybe have the VT as an anchor for a return line to pull the slackened line back to you.


Sorry, I'm not good with graphics. Maybe someone can doodle some of our ideas up?

 

[Mike Cantolina]

These old right of way pics aren't the best but they might help some.

 

[bigredd]

I am no expert on zip lines, but have done several jobs recently that worked perfecty and safe; and without all the fancy equipment.

Basically we used two ropes, both anchored just below the cut line. One rope is a zip-line streched to an anchor point where you want the branch or stim to travel. The other is secured by a loopie and block with a port-a-wrap. A large round type shakle is attached around the zip line, and the branch/stem being cut is rigged to that large shakle with a sling and smaller schakle. The porta wrap line is also attached to the large schakle with a smaller scakle. That line shares the shock load with the zip-line, and controls the decent down the zip line.

On some occasions, we also attached a tag line when there was insufficient slope on the zip line. There are some pics on the following link.

http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?t=84051&highlight=poplar+tree+removal&page=2

It may not be the most high tech way to make a zip line, but it works well and is not costly or difficult. Many of the kits are limited to 1/2" line and small loads. We were moving 500-700 lb sections with ease.

 

[1I'dJak]

thanks guys...don't have a grcs to tighten my line but a come-along might help eh? like the idea of using a hitch to keep tension....thanks for the pics especially...

 

[Mike Cantolina]

A vehicle or pulleys set up for mechanical advantage would work better than a come-along so that you can put slack in the line easier. Especially if you're going to catch them with a block first.

Also, a tandem pulley like shown above works much better if you're using a control line.

 

[John Paul Sanborn]

thanks guys...don't have a grcs to tighten my line but a come-along might help eh? like the idea of using a hitch to keep tension....thanks for the pics especially...

Depending on the weights you will use, a porty or compression rig will work well. As said above, the come-a-long will not give you the control you may want. If the rig is right over your work, all the time, then it would do.

 

[Tree Machine]

Dudes, I anchor up above the limb to be cut, choker a zipline sling around the limb to be cut, clip it to the line, cut the thing and let em fly.

It's absolutely amazing how fast and entertaining this can be if you don't get too gear-intensive. The guy on the ground is the tensioner and he should be dropping them right in front of the chipper in a tidy pile. The key is having 6 or 10 zipline slings and an eyed end and biner for setting your anchor quickly. This is a knot-free system.

 

[pdqdl]

Yes, that's about what I do most.

It puts those branches butt-first, pointing at the chipper.

 

[John Paul Sanborn]

The key is having 6 or 10 zipline slings and an eyed end and biner for setting your anchor quickly. This is a knot-free system.

I've done this too, a bunch of "cheap" steel carabiners on slings all clipped into a daisy chain strap that I wear as a bandoleer. This is what I meant in my previous post about starting out simple, then adding pieces.

It can be as simple as moving a limb 10 ft away from lower canopy too.

One big problem with zip-lines is that you can have more turf damage then some people would want.

 

[Tree Machine]

I've done this too, a bunch of "cheap" steel carabiners on slings all clipped into a daisy chain strap that I wear as a bandoleer. This is what I meant in my previous post about starting out simple, then adding pieces

Start with 6, add 4 as needed. I like the bandoleer idea. I see an etrier' , something that might be a pretty good mod on a new saddle.

The bandoleer idea is good, though. I tend to clip 4 or 5 per loop. The fewer you have on you, the more often you need to have them sent back up. This is a pain when you're trying to be efficient. 10 is a magical number. I've only recently come upon that. Have always had a few loop runners and various biners and an array of slings, but in just the last few jobs I added another handful of Kong, non-locking stainless steel 'slideline' biners and a few more colorful 24" slings. OMG. ! My groundgul loves this as like as pdqxlrpdl says

It puts those branches butt-first, pointing at the chipper.

John, do you agree with the eyed-end + connector (locking biner) for repositionability?

One big problem with zip-lines is that you can have more turf damage then some people would want.

That's what the tarp is for, + generally, your anchorman really wants to put them on the driveway, right in front of the chipper, with a gentle, smooth who o o s hh ......

We have this one tarp we call the runway, I gotta share this with you. The one tarp every treeguy should have. Let me get a picture of it.

I'm actually doing a zipline job today.

 

[John Paul Sanborn]

I use the cheapes load-rated non-locking carabiners I can buy.

Like this, it keeps it all compact and as light as possible.

 

[pdqdl]

I don't use a bandolier, I just clip each loopie onto it's carabiner. Carabiners daisy-chain nicely from just one loop on a climbing belt. Grab a carabiner, the loopie comes along with it...clip to a branch...cut...go to the next branch.

Yes. 10 loopies is what I have, too. two 48", four 36", four 24", so I pretty much have every size or reach covered. I bought the cheap aluminum non-locking carabiners (and loopies) from Bailey's, so I only have about $140 tied up in speedline toys. I don't even own a fancy traveling pulley for a control line.

If turf damage is a problem, then you need to add a control line to slow it down. That slows down the climber. Usually not needed for branches, just log sections that skid into the ground. Branches just sweep the grass and slow down nicely.

 

[Garden Of Eden]

Wow. I just read this entire thread, and I have one very important question. How do I rep everyone?

Thanks for the first class, free education everyone!! Excellent.

Jeff

 

[southsoundtree]

I don't use a bandolier, I just clip each loopie onto it's carabiner. Carabiners daisy-chain nicely from just one loop on a climbing belt.

Yes. 10 loopies is what I have, too. 2-48", 4-36", 4-24", so I pretty much have every size or reach covered.

If turf damage is a problem, then you need to add a control line to slow it down. That slows down the climber. Usually not needed for branches, just log sections that skid into the ground. Branches just sweep the grass and slow down nicely.

You can also leave a pile of brush in your landing zone for log pieces to hit if they are small enough, thereby decreasing or eliminating turf damage by log sections, if the pile is hit accurately.

You can anchor from the tree to your chipper for the brush. Keep in mind that the chunks may bounce when they hit the ground if they are not controlled. Beware of things being too close to the landing zone (people/ chipper).

You can re-direct through a block/ pulley at the chipper and then anchor to another point with a 3:1 MA system so that the groundmen are out of the danger zone to a greater extent.

If there is a belly in the rope, it won't load the rope/ anchors as hard when the limbs drop onto the line. This works more feasibly as you get a higher slideline angle.


I use this for conifers quite effectively, yesterday in fact, when we removed a co-dom D-fir. I had a clear drop for the branches on one side of the tree, so cut and chuck. Then I running-bowlined/ cinched the slideline to the top of the first spar. For the low branches on the second trunk, over the rhoadies, I had the line coming down from the spar top, attached somewhat away from the trunk with webbing loops and cheap 'biners, then to the 3:1.

For the low branches that would have swept through the rhoadies, he pretensioned the line. As I cut, the groundie pulled in more and actually lifted the limbs somewhat, clearing the rhoadies. When attaching like this the rope bends sharply in an pretty wide open "v" shape, with the net force upward from the bottom of the "v" to the centerpoint between the two tips of the 'v". Watch for the butt of the limb to jump up. Don't get hit.

Once high enough to slide, then I just left a slight belly in the rope to reduce forces.

I used one groundman on the 3:1, and one groundman to disconnect and stage brush for the chipper, and about 10 slings/ biners.

 

[pdqdl]

What is a rhoadie?

 

[John Paul Sanborn]

What is a rhoadie?

Rhododendron they have them the size of our large crab apples out there in the PNW I've been told that the champion crab in WA is 90 ft tall.

They have an advantage over us with all the hight they have available, which is why RogB speedlines half his jobs