spliced eye

[david miller]

large eye or tight eye what i was thinking and im probly wrong is with a large eye girth around the biner that if one side of the splice came apart it would hold unlike a tight eye

 

[RacerX]

IMO a large eye is rather useless since it takes up more room than the tight eye and yet it serves the same function. It's been my experience that another part of the rope will get destroyed long before the tight eye wears out. Not sure if that's what you're asking.

 

[FallerClimber]

Tight Eye

Tight eye no doubt.

 

[mcfly]

If a splice is done right there's no chance it'll just pull apart.

I've spliced large eyes a few times just to see if I'd like it.. I didn't.

Like RacerX said they're bulky and I had to band them close to the girth to keep them tight.

The only practical reason I can see for getting a large eye is for someone who doesn't splice their own lanyards. You can take your snap off your old lanyard and girth it onto the new one instead of having to buy another spliced right in.

 

[chad556]

I actually tested that theory on large eye splices once. I girth hitched a loose bight on the end of my climbing line to my carabiner and clipped it in. Holding the tail tight to the rope I put my full weight on the line and hang there for a bit. Moment of truth, i let go of the rope, saw it start to slip, and before I could even blink I felt the rope whipping me in the face and my ass hitting the ground lol :jester:. I saw no need for further testing after that experience.

Point is, if your splice, or any part of your rope for that matter, fails prepare for 10 meters per second squared of acceleration straight down, and absolutely no time to react. I would go with a professionally made tight eye and trust it. A large eye in a girth hitch would be nearly the same thing as a knot if you think about it.

 

[tree md]

I have both ends of my climbing line spliced with tight eyes and alternate rope ends frequently. Easier to pull through crotches with the throw line. Much faster to recrotch with spiced eyes.

 

[Iustinian]

spliced eyes are better than knots

No spliced eye climbing ropes for me. I use the anchor hitch.

Why use a spliced rope termination?
• Up to 50% stronger than knots
• Zero bulk, maximum security
• Easy attach and detach from systems
• Faster than knot tying

The alternative knot-tied eyelet is not only bulkier but reduces the ropes tensile strength by 40-60% compared to splicing at a mere 5-10%.

KNOTS
PRO’S
•No cost
•Adjustable eyelet size
•Create as needed
•Can connect to “closed” hardware

CON’S
•Bulky
•Over-loaded knots hard/impossible to untie
•Slower to create connections
•Requires proper knot knowledge
•Reduces overall rope strength (often by half)
•Damaging to rope ends

HAND-SPLICED
PRO’S
•Narrow and slender
•Quick to connect to and from hardware
•Maximizes rope strength
•Eliminates knot-tying mistakes
•Can incorporate a thimble when abrasion is anticipated

CON’S
•Cost’s more than knots
•Requires considerable practice to perform neatly
•Eyelet size not adjustable

-- from Sherill Tree's learning center lol. it is true though

 

[RacerX]

I have both ends of my climbing line spliced with tight eyes and alternate rope ends frequently. Easier to pull through crotches with the throw line. Much faster to recrotch with spiced eyes.

Good point. Those tight eyes do slide nicely through a crotch and almost never get caught up on anything.