Splitter hydraulics quite

[DrDon]

I've split about a dozen cord with my new-to-me 27-ton Troy-Bilt splitter and never had the least problem, until yesterday, when the ram just stopped moving entirely. I had just just gone through a very large and green round of cherry and flipped the lever to return the ram, but it didn't do anything. I thought it had gone as far as it could through the log, but i've since noticed that it might have had another 3/4-1 inch to go for full extension. So I don't know if it quit by itself on its way down or after I let off on the lever. All I know is that it was working great until it stopped entirely. I checked the hydraulic oil, and it was a bit low. I topped it off, but that didn't make any difference.

I've never done maintenance on a log splitter or other sort of hydraulics, so I'm looking for any suggestions for diagnosis as well as possible repairs. Is it likely the valve, the pump, or what? What can I do to narrow it down before I start tearing things apart or hauling it to someone else to do that for me?

Thanks in advance for whatever you can tell me.

 

[Big_Eddy]

Start with inspecting the lovejoy connector to the pump. If the pump is not turning, then you will have no flow.

If the pump is turning, then there should be fluid flow. Check the valve in all positions. Any change in sound, or any movement of the cylinder?. If not, then it seems unl8kely you have fluid flow. If there is any way to confirm oil is returning to the tank, check that. Otherwise loosen the filter or return line (with a catch container handy) and pull the engine over by hand a few times with the switch off. If the pump is working, you should get a small amount of oil every time the pump rotates.

if there is oil flow, the valve is bad. If no oil flow, the pump is bad or the inlet line from the tank to pump is blocked or collapsed.

 

[Big_Eddy]

Yo DrDon. any updates? Don’t leave us in suspense.

 

[DrDon]

Yo DrDon. any updates? Don’t leave us in suspense.

I'm sorry. I kept hoping to get back to thank you and say that it was now running beautifully, but I've been too busy to put much time into it. I removed the filter and pulled the starter cord, and no oil came out beyond the drips from removing the filter. So I guess it must be either the pump or the Lovejoy connector. I was hoping to be able to look underneath to see if it was turning, but I see that will require separating the pump from the motor. If it is the pump, it looks like just a matter of disconnecting the two hoses, removing four nuts and swapping it out with a new pump.

I see that new pumps are VERY expensive: $225 here: https://www.fremontindustrialsupply...acement-pump-for-mtd-log-splitters-40869.html. Are there any less expensive alternatives?

I hate getting in over my head, but I do it all the time. Any advice or thoughts would be welcome.'

 

[VirginiaIron]

I'm sorry. I kept hoping to get back to thank you and say that it was now running beautifully, but I've been too busy to put much time into it. I removed the filter and pulled the starter cord, and no oil came out beyond the drips from removing the filter. So I guess it must be either the pump or the Lovejoy connector. I was hoping to be able to look underneath to see if it was turning, but I see that will require separating the pump from the motor. If it is the pump, it looks like just a matter of disconnecting the two hoses, removing four nuts and swapping it out with a new pump.

I see that new pumps are VERY expensive: $225 here: https://www.fremontindustrialsupply...acement-pump-for-mtd-log-splitters-40869.html. Are there any less expensive alternatives?

I hate getting in over my head, but I do it all the time. Any advice or thoughts would be welcome.'View attachment 1019329

That square tube between the pump and the engine/mounting plate is a spacer and your coupling is hidden in there. You must take it apart to examine the connection.

 

[TRTermite]

A simple key shearing shouldn't be overlooked.
I would guess Troybilt like to sell their parts but you might check out Surplus Center (in Lincoln Nebraska) for replacement pumps and price.

 

[blades]

A sudden stop of function kinda points to the love joy. Pumps do not blow that often. Now that I have said that my 20+ year old HF pump will likely go south along with love joy and the cylinder- there are over a 1000 cords across this unit. i am on my 3rd valve, second beam , and repaired a few OEM weld failures over the years. and yes it is still the same 8hp briggs motor on it that it came with.

 

[DrDon]

That square tube between the pump and the engine/mounting plate is a spacer and your coupling is hidden in there. You must take it apart to examine the connection.

Thanks. You guys are great! I got it apart easily enough, though I had to remove the engine to access the bolt heads, which were spinning. Good news: looks like it's the lovejoy and, presumably, not the pump, which turns fine and pushes oil.

Now, I have what looks like a broken lovejoy, one half attached to the engine, the other to the pump. I've backed out the set screw on the engine half, but haven't been able to get it off (maybe I just need more elbow grease). I see a threaded hole on the other (pump) half, where it looks like there should be a set screw. What I DON'T see is a piece to go between the two halves, like in pictures I find online of lovejoy connectors (a kind of star, or ring with six square lobes). Maybe it disintegrated and fell out?

QUESTION: Is it going to require a hydraulic press or something to get these off?

 

[skeet88]

Looks like it sheared the ears off. Was there any pieces laying in the spacer between pump and engine? Should be able to remove the couplings with a 2 or 3 jaw puller after you loosen the set screws. If you don’t have one your local parts store may rent them . Good luck and Stay Safe.

 

[Del_]

Looks like it sheared the ears off. Was there any pieces laying in the spacer between pump and engine? Should be able to remove the couplings with a 2 or 3 jaw puller after you loosen the set screws. If you don’t have one your local parts store may rent them . Good luck and Stay Safe.

Yes it did. Maybe one of the halves moved resulting in not completely engaged ears.

 

[VirginiaIron]

Thanks. You guys are great! I got it apart easily enough, though I had to remove the engine to access the bolt heads, which were spinning. Good news: looks like it's the lovejoy and, presumably, not the pump, which turns fine and pushes oil.

Now, I have what looks like a broken lovejoy, one half attached to the engine, the other to the pump. I've backed out the set screw on the engine half, but haven't been able to get it off (maybe I just need more elbow grease). I see a threaded hole on the other (pump) half, where it looks like there should be a set screw. What I DON'T see is a piece to go between the two halves, like in pictures I find online of lovejoy connectors (a kind of star, or ring with six square lobes). Maybe it disintegrated and fell out?

QUESTION: Is it going to require a hydraulic press or something to get these off?

It's odd that there appears to be damage on the Dawgs but there is no apparent grinding of metal shards or any rubber debris which leads me to believe that was always metal on metal contact without the rubber spider insert for vibration.
I would not move them unless necessary. Just find the right spider bushing. Maybe the one coupling that moved was the one that slipped out of place.

Edit, not sure if this is the right size or thickness, but it looks very thin and might apply to your coupling.

 

[skeet88]

Yeah that was sorta obvious .Does look like the rubber part of the coupling has long since disintegrated and they were driving metal on metal until they wore so thin and broke off. No wonder it got quite.

 

[Big_Eddy]

The rubber spider wore out or disintegrated, then the metal legs of each coupler half were bearing directly on each other until the metal on metal friction wore the legs right off. Been there. Caught mine before it quit, but not by much.

You need three parts. A spider bushing and a metal L095 coupler half for each shaft. Most likely the motor and pump have different shaft diameters, so measure before ordering.

A 2 or 3 leg gear puller should make short work of pulling the old coupler halves off. There likely is a set screw deep in the hole on the pump side too.

You will be amazed how quiet the pump sounds with a rubber spider in the coupler.

 

[DrDon]

The rubber spider wore out or disintegrated, then the metal legs of each coupler half were bearing directly on each other until the metal on metal friction wore the legs right off. Been there. Caught mine before it quit, but not by much.

Once again, thanks for all the help. This is a great group of folks here! It's all put back together now, and I'm looking forward to trying it out. ONE MORE QUESTION (I hope!) -- how serious is it if the hydraulic fluid goes above the top line on the dipstick? It's really hard to see it, because it's so close to clear, so I'm thinking I'm better off erring on the side of too much than too little.

 

[Del_]

Once again, thanks for all the help. This is a great group of folks here! It's all put back together now, and I'm looking forward to trying it out. ONE MORE QUESTION (I hope!) -- how serious is it if the hydraulic fluid goes above the top line on the dipstick? It's really hard to see it, because it's so close to clear, so I'm thinking I'm better off erring on the side of too much than too little.

The tank is vented so the only problem with running the tank extra full is that is may puke oil out of the vent.