Splitting axe

[North by Northwest]

I have never seen a maul that can not be struck on the back of the head, where did I imply you can or should strike the back of a axe head? A common maul and a fiskers both rely on the impact and wedge shape neither, have the best shape, edge or steel the only real difference is the handle on the fiskers acts like a rubber band giving more force into the wood and cushions the hand...both are cheap hardware store axes compared to a ochsenkopf or bruks.

All splitting or felling axes can be struck on the head they are all tempered . Not something I recommend however . Same with splitting mauls . However common sense appies , protective eye wear should always be worn . Iam old school back before hyd. splitters . Steel splitting wedges and sledge hammer use was routine , when narly an knotty rounds were encountered that splitting axes or mauls could not effectively reduce . I have used the fibreglass or other man made polymar grade handles they due reduce shock as well as quality hickory or ash . Today there are a variety or quality choices !

 

[Ronaldo]

Nice! How long pieces of wood do you split with it? Do you do 20" pieces?

I am splitting 16 to 18" pieces for my stove and 24" for the boilers at Dad's and my brothers. The X25 was my first purchase and maybe that's why I prefer it, cause I'm so accustomed to using it. The X27 feels too long and I think the Husqvarna S2800 tends to stick in the wood more than the Fiskars. What svk mentioned was that the Fiskars poll area is not designed to pound on or to pound steel wedges like a say a sledgehammer.

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[North by Northwest]

Thanks for the welcome

Haha! Yeah, buying all of them is one way to do it if you can't decide



For a guy my size, would you recommend the x25 or x27? Most people seem to really like the x27 but I'm worried it's too big for me.



Thanks a lot for bringing this up. Are 20" pieces just too long to get a good crack in with an axe? What's the longest you can do with an axe?
What's everyone else's thoughts on this?

Most woodstove accommodate 16" - 18" length that is why that is the standard stove length . 20-24 although uncommon is routinely split however more often with hydraulic splitter users for larger potbelly or parlour stoves !

 

[SimonHS]

This is a small part of my axe 'collection' - I have Axe Accumulation Affliction. These are my go-to splitting axes that I use the most, apart from the plastic Husqvarna far right which is a recent acquisition, because I found it on sale and it was too cheap to pass by.



From left to right:

• Helko Werk Vario Heavy Log Splitter - 2.3kg. Much abused. Needs a new handle and sharpening. Used on big rounds and tough splits.
• Gransfors Bruk Small Splitting Axe - 1.6kg. Lovely quality.
• Husqvarna Small Splitting Maul - 0.9kg. Scandinavian pattern. This is the one I use the most.
• Oyo Small Axe - 0.5kg. Just for kindling.
• Husqvarna Universal Axe A1400 - 1.0kg. Not used it much yet. It came very sharp out of the box.

 

[LondonNeil]

All splitting or felling axes can be struck on the head they are all tempered . Not something I recommend however . Same with splitting mauls . However common sense appies , protective eye wear should always be worn . Iam old school back before hyd. splitters . Steel splitting wedges and sledge hammer use was routine , when narly an knotty rounds were encountered that splitting axes or mauls could not effectively reduce . I have used the fibreglass or other man made polymar grade handles they due reduce shock as well as quality hickory or ash . Today there are a variety or quality choices !

Err no they aren't. The cheap maul I started with quickly mushroomed driving wedges. Fairly sure my oschenkopf says don't beat wedges. DEFINITELY don't beat ON any axe with a sledge, tempered poll or not, the eye will deform.

 

[LondonNeil]

birch generally really easy to split, spruce will vary more but not bad. Bigger rounds might want a bit more persuasion to initially pop so I like to have a heavier maul to hand for those occasions, then swap to a lighter axe. the x27 for moderately tough stuff but lighter and shorter for easy splitting and long sessions. I've been doing a lot of oak recently with my 3.5lb Jersey on a 28" ash haft. its a weight and length that has plenty of oomph but can be swung with very little effort. Hand splitting needs a few axes in the arsenal though, and good technique, which takes a little learning.

 

[North by Northwest]

Err no they aren't. The cheap maul I started with quickly mushroomed driving wedges. Fairly sure my oschenkopf says don't beat wedges. DEFINITELY don't beat ON any axe with a sledge, tempered poll or not, the eye will deform.

Must have been really cheap ...China Cheap lol. All quality axes are tempered , some even case hardened and stress relieved . No , never hammer on an axe with a Sledge hammer that is common sense and I said I did not recommend it ! However driving wedges while felling was common place done every job . Never distorted a axe pole or eye in 40 + yrs , then again never owned a cheap axe . I usually used a sledge on wedges during splitting lol .

 

[old guy]

Thanks for the welcome

Haha! Yeah, buying all of them is one way to do it if you can't decide



For a guy my size, would you recommend the x25 or x27? Most people seem to really like the x27 but I'm worried it's too big for me.



Thanks a lot for bringing this up. Are 20" pieces just too long to get a good crack in with an axe? What's the longest you can do with an axe?
What's everyone else's thoughts on this?

Most of my life I've been 5' 7'' & about 150 - 160 lbs., cut & split wood all my life.
I've always cut my maul, pick and axe handles to 31''. Mostly 16'' wood, anytime somebody decided to cut longer wood we soon got over that cuz it was to hard to split and handle, lifting 20''x 20'' pieces of oak gets old. Back then I split with a 6 or 8 lb. hardware store splitting maul, shattered many a handle.
Now I have a fiskers 27 and a husqvarna splitting ax, I find the fiskers handle too long and don't like the vibrations from that plastic handle, also it is constantly stuck in the wood.
The husky ax has a wooden handle and does not stick nearly as much.

 

[LondonNeil]

Must have been really cheap ...China Cheap lol. All quality axes are tempered , some even case hardened and stress relieved . No , never hammer on an axe with a Sledge hammer that is common sense and I said I did not recommend it ! However driving wedges while felling was common place done every job . Never distorted a axe pole or eye in 40 + yrs , then again never owned a cheap axe . I usually used a sledge on wedges during splitting lol .

Drive plastic or even ALU felling wedges, fine, they are soft, but if you try driving hardened steel splitting wedges with an axe poll you'll mushroom it.

 

[North by Northwest]

Drive plastic or even ALU felling wedges, fine, they are soft, but if you try driving hardened steel splitting wedges with an axe poll you'll mushroom it.

Cold rolled steel wedges were the norm in my day , cut 20-30 cord of fire wood a yr in the 60's. Actually the butt of a felling or splitting axe is designed to set wedges . Sure a minor mushroom of the edge perhaps however a grinder or bastard file would clean that up . Anyhow , my point was that common sense applied that steel wedges and a sledge could reduce the splitting effects of larger or narly rounds . I have no axes that I would strike with a sledge , that would benefit splitting any of the rounds that I split lol. Actually my current 6 axes are over 40 yrs old . 4 splitting: 2 Michigan 4.5 lb , 1 Jersey 3.5 lb & 3 Garand Canadian Edition 2 felling: 2.5 lb & 3.5 lb . All with hickory handles . My mauls were made from scratch from 6 & 8 lb sledges with metal handles . I personally made my wedges also , including case hardening & normalizing each .

 

[Walkdog]

Definitely get a maul. Bigger the better, in my experience. In the modern age,the only useful functions axes serve in relation to firewood production are driving wedges and cleaning out face cuts. Even for splitting kindling they aren’t the best tool - a froe is much safer, faster, and more ergonomic.

The Fiskars IsoCore is my favorite beater maul. I’ve used mine to split at least 15 cords of oak the past three years. Best $75 a wood splitting hombre can spend.

As far as prettier options go, Ochsenkopf makes the cleanest, strongest drop forged mauls I’ve seen ($150-200). Gransfors large maul is also a thing of beauty and a very effective tool if you want a hand forged heirloom ($200-300).

A good aluminum wedge is very handy when you encounter the knottiest, most recalcitrant bits. Being softer than the steel of your striking implement, aluminum wedges transfer more of the force of your blows into the wood. The spiral ones by Muller (which Stihl re-brands and marks up) and Ochsenkopf are superior products.

 

[Witterings]

I am splitting 16 to 18" pieces for my stove and 24" for the boilers at Dad's and my brothers. The X25 was my first purchase and maybe that's why I prefer it, cause I'm so accustomed to using it. The X27 feels too long and I think the Husqvarna S2800 tends to stick in the wood more than the Fiskars.

Agree with the above .... The Husky whilst more "powerful" does seem to stick more and quickly becomes more tiring with the extra weight.

 

[Big_Eddy]

Let’s talk handle length. I much prefer a longer handle on either an axe or maul.

A 30” handle gives 50% more splitting power at the block than a 24” handle for the same swing speed and head weight. A 36” handle adds even more. (More than 2x the 24”)

A 36” handle gets you further from the block. I alway split a block on the ground. Never on top of another block. Take a block on the ground and a 36” handle, and even if you miss the close edge of the block entirely, when the swing continues on to the first obstruction, it hits the ground.

Shorten up that axe handle to 28” and swing. This time when you miss the front edge of the block, the arc continues right around to your toes. Ouch!

Stick that same block up on another one, and you further increase the risk of a toe or shin strike because the whole arc occurs higher up.

I’m 5’8”. I prefer a 36” handle.
I use them all. Fiskars splitting axe, 4lb splitter, 6 and 8 lb mauls.

For the birch in the picture, I would grab the fiskars or the 4lb axe everytime. The mauls are reserved for crotches, elm, or generally uncooperative blocks


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[North by Northwest]

Let’s talk handle length. I much prefer a longer handle on either an axe or maul.

A 30” handle gives 50% more splitting power at the block than a 24” handle for the same swing speed and head weight. A 36” handle adds even more. (More than 2x the 24”)

A 36” handle gets you further from the block. I alway split a block on the ground. Never on top of another block. Take a block on the ground and a 36” handle, and even if you miss the close edge of the block entirely, when the swing continues on to the first obstruction, it hits the ground.

Shorten up that axe handle to 28” and swing. This time when you miss the front edge of the block, the arc continues right around to your toes. Ouch!

Stick that same block up on another one, and you further increase the risk of a toe or shin strike because the whole arc occurs higher up.

I’m 5’8”. I prefer a 36” handle.
I use them all. Fiskars splitting axe, 4lb splitter, 6 and 8 lb mauls.

For the birch in the picture, I would grab the fiskars or the 4lb axe everytime. The mauls are reserved for crotches, elm, or generally uncooperative blocks


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Yeah , I mentioned previously length was paramount within effective & safe splitting . Secondarily is in handle composition and design . Actually head design ( taper) & sharpness is more personal preference dependant on the users splitting technique . I had always favoured 32" length straight handled maple & 3.5 lb head during my teens . As I got older , I went a little longer & heavier to increase my leverage and terminal velocity as you have advised . At 5'-10" 200 lbs & 67 yrs young I now prefer a 34 " Michigan @ 4.5 lbs swinging linseed curved ash . I found handle lengths of less than 28 " were reserved for the girls or youngsters . I always used a 12" tall × 20" wide hardwood splitting block to reduce bounce on rounds , although I agree with your safety advice . Today pretty well now use my 30 ton hyd. splitter on the big rounds or narly splits lol.

 

[user 178840]

I alway split a block on the ground. Never on top of another block.

I get why this is good from a safety point of view, but doesn't the spring/mushiness of the ground eat up a lot of the energy from the strike of the axe? Or are you splitting on solid ground? I'll be working on my lawn, so soft grass...

 

[North by Northwest]

I get why this is good from a safety point of view, but doesn't the spring/mushiness of the ground eat up a lot of the energy from the strike of the axe? Or are you splitting on solid ground? I'll be working on my lawn, so soft grass...

TL this is not rocket science . Yes , some of the energy is transmitted to the ground regardless , the softer the ground surface more energy absorbed . A hardwood splitting block , sized properly (height) according to your height & axe handle length alleviates any safety issues that Ed has correctly indicated . Shorter individuals using a shorter handle under 28 " would be a worst case scenario , should a short splitting block be utilized . I would suggest you checkout any Buckin Billy Ray splitting session for a quick illustration of proper axe selection and splitting techniques .This guy makes his own axes and has been felling , bucking & splitting professionally for decades .

 

[svk]

Let’s talk handle length. I much prefer a longer handle on either an axe or maul.

A 30” handle gives 50% more splitting power at the block than a 24” handle for the same swing speed and head weight. A 36” handle adds even more. (More than 2x the 24”)

A 36” handle gets you further from the block. I alway split a block on the ground. Never on top of another block. Take a block on the ground and a 36” handle, and even if you miss the close edge of the block entirely, when the swing continues on to the first obstruction, it hits the ground.

Shorten up that axe handle to 28” and swing. This time when you miss the front edge of the block, the arc continues right around to your toes. Ouch!

Stick that same block up on another one, and you further increase the risk of a toe or shin strike because the whole arc occurs higher up.

I’m 5’8”. I prefer a 36” handle.
I use them all. Fiskars splitting axe, 4lb splitter, 6 and 8 lb mauls.

For the birch in the picture, I would grab the fiskars or the 4lb axe everytime. The mauls are reserved for crotches, elm, or generally uncooperative blocks


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I agree with your math however it is not always physically possible to swing a 36" tool as fast as a 28" tool. And with the modern light splitting tools, speed is what gets the work done.

When the Fiskars first became popular, a lot of people maligned it because they were trying to split it like a maul and not getting results. A lot of time it was the heavier built, older fellows who had the worst luck with it because they couldn't generate speed. Then you get a tall, thin guy like @MustangMike and he makes the wood sound like it was hit by lightning when he swings it because he has long arms yet generates a fast swing.

 

[svk]

This is a small part of my axe 'collection' - I have Axe Accumulation Affliction. These are my go-to splitting axes that I use the most, apart from the plastic Husqvarna far right which is a recent acquisition, because I found it on sale and it was too cheap to pass by.

View attachment 901983

From left to right:

• Helko Werk Vario Heavy Log Splitter - 2.3kg. Much abused. Needs a new handle and sharpening. Used on big rounds and tough splits.
• Gransfors Bruk Small Splitting Axe - 1.6kg. Lovely quality.
• Husqvarna Small Splitting Maul - 0.9kg. Scandinavian pattern. This is the one I use the most.
• Oyo Small Axe - 0.5kg. Just for kindling.
• Husqvarna Universal Axe A1400 - 1.0kg. Not used it much yet. It came very sharp out of the box.

View attachment 901985View attachment 901986View attachment 901987View attachment 901988View attachment 901990

Very good illustration. The Helko, Gransfors, and Husky S series all have that same head shape that was copycatted by Fiskars. Not saying the other tools don't work well either, but that face shape and angle of the 3 really works well.

 

[MustangMike]

Speed does make the Fiskars X-27 very effective, but I also like (as I get older) that the much lighter head lets me keep going a lot longer.

For most of the time I heated my house with wood, I was using the larger/heavier steel handle Monster Mauls with the triangle heads. The X-27 is soo much more efficient.

I stopped using wood handle mauls when one of the handles split and the maul head came back at my head at high speed! Luckily, my boxing reflexes allowed me to "slip it", and it just grazed my cheek, but I was worried I would not be so lucky the next time.

 

[North by Northwest]

I split about 16 cord per year with the Fiskars x27. I tried an x25, and it was too short for me - I'm 5'10", but maybe 30% heavier and in my case not all lean muscle. I split 18" pieces of oak. There are plenty of variables in the process of splitting wood, not the least of which is the type wood, and the lay of the grain. If you can find a store that carries both size Fiskars you might get a sense by just handling on. For the price, I'd put a Fiskars in my arsenal and let it work. If you find you want to do this work year after year, and then shine your splitter and hang it over the mantle while you are burning, then invest in the Gränsfors Bruk. But recognize, this is just one guy's opinion, and not a measured and relatable guide for anyone else.View attachment 901910

Nice solid splitting block !