Splitting Wood

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mswabbie

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I will be felling some 40" to 48" burl oak trees for fire wood. I will be cutting into 16" lengths. I will then rent an 18HP log splitter. What is the best way to split 16" long 48" diameter logs on a splitter. I have not done this before and would like to know if it is best to stand them up and go thru the bark or lay them down and come in from the end grain.
Thanks
 
Splitter

The splitters I have used all required one to lay the log down and split it from the end. The rental place should be able to fully instruct you on how to use their machine. Is there a splitter out there that splits logs when they are standing up; I've never seen one.....
 
with the grain....

You should be able to rent a splitter that will split with the beam in a horizontal or vertical position. For 48" diameter I would split it up into managable pieces vertically and then split those horizontally into firewood. I find it is easier on the back to lift manageable pieces than to try and lift the whole thing or to bend over all day splitting vertically.

Always split with the grain of the wood fibers, I would think along the axis of the log would be much easier on the machine and quicker.18 HP?? That must be a monster of a splitter!
 
For splitting pieces that size and weight, you may want to consider a couple of options:
- the easiest might be to "rip" the rounds into quarters so they are more manageable, and then use the splitter to break them apart into blocks.
-I've seen attachments for Bobcats that split wood while it is laying horizontally. The cat comes up to one end, the splitter is lowered onto the log, and then activated.
-I've heard of, but never seen, a back hoe being used to split rounds stood on end. I assume that the bucket is brought down with the edge on the log, and the weight of the tractor is used to break the round apart.

I'd be curious if that 18hp splitter might have a log lift, but even then, 48" rounds would be pushing it.

Be careful!

George
 
just a thot. u have 48 inch oak . one of those has a lot o timber. to bad u cant do that . 2 like that mite build a house.
depending on how much good lumber is in each tree. like i said just a thot.
 
For me spiltting pieces that size and larger is no problem. But then again my tractor mounted splitter likely delivers more power than a 18hp. I'd recommend taking steel wedges and a sledge hammer and splitting them at least in half (maybe quarters) and then they'll be easier to roll into the splitter.

Steel wedges and a sledge hammer had more power to split than the avarage wood splitter by the way, especially in knotty pieces.

Always look for the "perfect spot" to split. This is a spot where there is no branch coming out of the piece, and perhaps a natural tiny crack (look at the grain closely). Also, big pieces tend to split easier when you take a small piece off with the splitter, from the edge of the piece, at a time.

If you put the whole thing in and try and spit it through the middle and the splitter doesn't have enough power to do it, then try splitting a small bit off the side. Every time you do that you weaken the piece.

Ripping it with a chainsaw is also a good tactic if nothing else works. Even maing a small cut in the wood, then "wedge and sledge" the crack, or put the crack against the wedge of the splitter and make the splitter do the work.

Another thing, does your rental place have a bigger splitter you can rent? I now cost is a factor, but it's worth considering, depending on how kotty and branchy the wood is.
 
If you can roll it up to the splitter, then flip it over on end would be the best bet. Depending how much mosture is in it will determine wheather or not it will explode apart. If too dry you will have to jockey the wood around and hit it agin with the splitter to finsh the cut on the opposit side. I have split about 38" red oak, that was wet, with a 5 hp splitter, and it did just fine. But watch out explosions have some power, and will keep you on your toes!
 
If you said "burl" Oak, like heavy, wavy grain burl, Dude you need to make lumber out of that stuff. Take out a loan, get set up with saws, bars, chains and mill equipment. Find a furniture builder or hardwood supply to sell to.
 
Dig a ditch and bury the splitter at ground level and Just roll em on. On a serious note if they slpit easy just use a wedge to 1/4 the blocks and if they are tough, 1/4 them with a saw.

I do agree however that the side lift craddle is the best way to go and should easily handle the weight if your splitter has one.
 
quartering large oak

Don't look for that sweet spot, make it for the wedge, use saw to cut at 45 degree angle on edge face of the round in four places, opposite one another, deep as blade is tall. This leaves a sweet spot to drop the wedge in were the wedge touches the sides but the tip of wedge doesn't touch wood one or two light hits splits a round all the way across. The angled cut on the edge of the face is like a mecanical advantage because you have already started the split with that cut and the wedge has that much less to do, the sides of the wedge are pushing out but the tip has not hit wood yet, no bouncing out. The idea is to get the pieces to a size that is easy on your back. A 24" round 16" long weighs in at over 200lbs. I split 48"cherry and it was near 800lbs a round. I hope you have a lift on the spliter or spliting it in quarters is going to be your only option unless you have a few gorillas in the mix.
 
This is why I like to cut tops, just stand peice on end, whack it once with maul, and goe on, maybe quarter it or more. In red oak a good maul and a good back will make a wood splitter look sad.I usually find it harder wrestling the peice around on a woood splitter, than just splitting it.If stuff is big or Knotty I usually just leave it and go to the next top.
 

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