SsRT?

[Ob1]

I've been wondering (climbing for 15 months, ascending both DdRT and SRT) why don't we cut rope expense in half when shelling out for a static line on which to ascend SRT, and rig it single-legged at the high end, by using a throwline to thread a running bowline up high from the ground? (similar to remotely setting a friction saver) Then we only need 1/2 the rope... right?

Even if we leave it in the tree when we're done and descend on our climbline as usual, couldn't it be retrieved from the ground if we re-set the throwline while still in the tree? Maybe the knot's too tight by then, esp. in a tall tree pulling on 80' or 90' of line.... ???

I probably oughta try this in a 10' crotch and see for myself, but I thought I cud glean some wisdom here. :monkey:

 

[moss]

It's a legit way to climb SRT. You want to have both methods in your skillset. The time it takes to isolate the branch in some trees to cinch the limb vs doing a ground/trunk tied SRT anchor could pay the cost of extra rope required to do a trunk anchor in one or two jobs.

And there's the benefit of the rescue potential with a trunk anchored SRT line. -moss

 

[moss]

You still need a rope long enough to have both ends reach the ground.( in order to be able to tie a running bowlin from the ground)

That's the easiest way to do it. I often use a rope that is sufficient length to reach the limb and still have enough to tie the running bowline or whatever cinch method you like to use. I create a simple tapered cone on the end of the rope with vinyl tape that captures the throwline, and tie the bowline around the throwline with the bottom of the rope. Pull the rope up with the throwline, the cone on the end of the rope eases it through the bowline bight as it's going up, you don't have to worry about the rope end getting hung on the bowline as it would normally. If you have a splice on the end of your rope you're all set, don't need to make the little cone. I've super-glued a little bit of a sling loop on one end of my 150' rope (I don't use spliced eyes on my climbing ropes) which also allows me to set for example a max 140-145 ' cinched SRT line with my 150' rope if I needed to.

Note: I'm a rec climber but I think the techniques described cross over just fine into work climbing.
-moss

 

[woodchux]

That's the easiest way to do it. I often use a rope that is sufficient length to reach the limb and still have enough to tie the running bowline or whatever cinch method you like to use. I create a simple tapered cone on the end of the rope with vinyl tape that captures the throwline, and tie the bowline around the throwline with the bottom of the rope. Pull the rope up with the throwline, the cone on the end of the rope eases it through the bowline bight as it's going up, you don't have to worry about the rope end getting hung on the bowline as it would normally. If you have a splice on the end of your rope you're all set, don't need to make the little cone. I've super-glued a little bit of a sling loop on one end of my 150' rope (I don't use spliced eyes on my climbing ropes) which also allows me to set for example a max 140-145 ' cinched SRT line with my 150' rope if I needed to.

Note: I'm a rec climber but I think the techniques described cross over just fine into work climbing.
-moss

i deleted my post after a little thought about what might work..

 

[Col2y]

if you learn how to foot lock you dont have to worry about srt rope and all the expencive ascenders crolls pantins etc.

 

[Ob1]

That's the easiest way to do it. I often use a rope that is sufficient length to reach the limb and still have enough to tie the running bowline or whatever cinch method you like to use. I create a simple tapered cone on the end of the rope with vinyl tape that captures the throwline, and tie the bowline around the throwline with the bottom of the rope. Pull the rope up with the throwline, the cone on the end of the rope eases it through the bowline bight as it's going up, you don't have to worry about the rope end getting hung on the bowline as it would normally. If you have a splice on the end of your rope you're all set, don't need to make the little cone. I've super-glued a little bit of a sling loop on one end of my 150' rope (I don't use spliced eyes on my climbing ropes) which also allows me to set for example a max 140-145 ' cinched SRT line with my 150' rope if I needed to.

Note: I'm a rec climber but I think the techniques described cross over just fine into work climbing.
-moss

Thanks for the helpful feedback Moss. I haven't had a chance to test this method yet, but I'm picturing the smart cone method like this: the base of the cone sits on the end of the rope where the throwline is tied, and it tapers down onto the throwline to smooth over the blunt rope end?

Yeah, now that I've written it out, it seems like an obvious solution to the snagging issue.

Do you not use spliced eyes out of strength/rope-integrity conerns?