Stacking felling wedges.

[Nicholas]

What is the trick to stacking felling wedges one on top of another? I can get the first wedge/wedges into the back cut without any trouble. But when I try to pound in another wedge on top of the previous wedge/wedges for more lifting power, and I can't get the buggers to start or pound into place. Any advise, tips, tricks, or pictures would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,

Nick

 

[John Ellison]

If you have one wedge in and know you need to double up it is usually easiest to start two more together, one directly on top of the other. Drive them alternately. Don't hit them both at the same time. Hit one in a bit and then the other. Offsetting them a bit makes it easier to hit one at a time, but they also will break easier that way. (If they are offset too much) Its where nice square shoulders on your axe head help a lot.

If they still want to squirt out you can put sawdust in between and under/over them.

 

[ASEMASTER]

plundge cut

bore or plundge cut a nother spot for the second wedge ,usually done brfore your back cut ,it's all part of your planning the cut.

 

[John Ellison]

We all have different ways, but if the back cut is already made, and one wedge is not lifting enough... I have the axe in my hand so I'll go ahead and wedge it over instead of picking up the saw again to make an unnessary plunge cut. Maybe we are talking about two different things. I am not saying that way will not work.

 

[John Ellison]

Sorry Asemaster, he did say any advise or tips. I was just saying what works best for me.

 

[ASEMASTER]

I do agree with you

Sorry Asemaster, he did say any advise or tips. I was just saying what works best for me.

Iagree with your method but just gave another acount of how to get a second wedge in to get a good lift.
I prefer to plunge a bore from the front cut to the back before I start my felling cut to but a wedge in and refrence my back cut to the front. then I only fell smaller trees for fire wood, most are 100+old maples and assorted hard woods with rot or scaring from running logs around them.
we all have diff. techinces as every tree is different.

 

[ericjeeper]

On Old wood.

Possibly rotten or doughty, I would leave my hinge wood intact all the way from side to side, and avoid making front plunging sweeping bore.Unless the tree has a predetermined place it is going to fall, and you do not plan on changing its fall.

 

[manual]

What is the trick to stacking felling wedges one on top of another? I can get the first wedge/wedges into the back cut without any trouble. But when I try to pound in another wedge on top of the previous wedge/wedges for more lifting power, and I can't get the buggers to start or pound into place. Any advise, tips, tricks, or pictures would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,

Nick

Theirs a thread going fight now called "how to properly use wedges".
Great stuff.

 

[Tree Sling'r]

If your two stacked wedges will not go (too tight, not enough lift), then you need to beat one wedge up first to get as much possible lift. I rarely stack wedges, two side by side is more my method.
When I do stack wedges everything else has been done and it goes easy. If they slip, put some dirt or duff in between the two. Hit one and then the other.
Another key is, that if you swing your rafter like a girl your gonna have a time at hit. Swing it like you got a pair.
Trail and error is the best advice I can give.

 

[Nicholas]

Thank you everyone for the advise and tips. I will begin implimenting the techniques discussed into my tree felling practice. Next time I go out to the woods, I will practice on some standing tree trunks, the tops completly broke off and fell to the ground during a wind storm. I figure it would be a little safer practicing on that, rather than a 80ft ash, maple, or oak trees. Once I fine tune my technique on smaller trees, I can move on to larger trees.

Thanks again everyone,

Nick

 

[tek9tim]

I prefer to plunge a bore from the front cut to the back before I start my felling cut to but a wedge in and refrence my back cut to the front. .

Hmm... And take out 4" of holding wood?

 

[Tzed250]

distance

Remember that the greater the distance from the wedging point to the hinge, the greater leverage you have.

 

[Husky137]

Thank you everyone for the advise and tips. I will begin implimenting the techniques discussed into my tree felling practice. Next time I go out to the woods, I will practice on some standing tree trunks, the tops completly broke off and fell to the ground during a wind storm. I figure it would be a little safer practicing on that, rather than a 80ft ash, maple, or oak trees. Once I fine tune my technique on smaller trees, I can move on to larger trees.

Thanks again everyone,

Nick

Most excellent.

 

[Nicholas]

I noticed Baileys sells special yellow wedges they call "Rifled Wedges" designed with the intent of stacking. Would it be worth it for a person to invest in a few of these to experiment with?

Also, how many wedges does everyone carry to the woods? I carry four 5.5" wedges with me at all times in the woods.

Thanks,

Nick

 

[FSburt]

Swinging a falling axe like you got a pair

Hey Slinger that technique alone will get alot of trees over but have seen too many cutters tap on their wedges like they are made of glass. Being in a good solid position with a comfortable stance is key to getting some good solid driving accomplished roughest time I have had is working out of Orleans prepping units for burning and cutting on the snags that the fallers left in bottom of these units , they were usually big as hell and most of time rotten with no deck to pound wedges off of. Also the ground was usually the steepest because it was the final drop into the creek. The key I learned early in the game was not make the undercut to high because the effect is the backcut will be too high for comfortable efficient pounding. That is the problem I have with the Forest Service method of teaching our fallers that making a high undercut so you can stand up and be ready to run out of the danger zone. I understand the safety aspect but have seen it applied to every tree and causes serious problems on steep ground especially working on the low side if it can be accesed at all. My first cut usually starts at the knee to mid thigh but not higher to mitigate the above problems.
Also what is your rule of thumb for lift on wedges for example how much will 1" of lift in the backcut move the top of a tree. I use a 1 to 1 ratio but just curious about others.

 

[Tree Sling'r]

Hey Slinger that technique alone will get alot of trees over but have seen too many cutters tap on their wedges like they are made of glass. Being in a good solid position with a comfortable stance is key to getting some good solid driving accomplished roughest time I have had is working out of Orleans prepping units for burning and cutting on the snags that the fallers left in bottom of these units , they were usually big as hell and most of time rotten with no deck to pound wedges off of. Also the ground was usually the steepest because it was the final drop into the creek. The key I learned early in the game was not make the undercut to high because the effect is the backcut will be too high for comfortable efficient pounding. That is the problem I have with the Forest Service method of teaching our fallers that making a high undercut so you can stand up and be ready to run out of the danger zone. I understand the safety aspect but have seen it applied to every tree and causes serious problems on steep ground especially working on the low side if it can be accesed at all. My first cut usually starts at the knee to mid thigh but not higher to mitigate the above problems.
Also what is your rule of thumb for lift on wedges for example how much will 1" of lift in the backcut move the top of a tree. I use a 1 to 1 ratio but just curious about others.

Don't really have a ratio method, just beat them up, saw a little more, beat them up -check my holding wood and go from there.
The way you swing your axe is key.
I played a lot a baseball in my days, all the way through college, I use my hips and legs to get the extra ump - in the swing, just like a bat. Left or right, don't matter.
As far as height, my stumps are rarely any taller than 7" - 8" on the up hill side. Mills hate the waste - and I cut for wood scale. I do understand the saftey idea though.

 

[PA Plumber]

I noticed Baileys sells special yellow wedges they call "Rifled Wedges" designed with the intent of stacking. Would it be worth it for a person to invest in a few of these to experiment with?

Also, how many wedges does everyone carry to the woods? I carry four 5.5" wedges with me at all times in the woods.

Thanks,

Nick

Can't help you with how they work, but I did order a 1/2 dozen of Baily's yellow wedges in 8 1/2". One side is grooved and the other is raised to fit in the groove. Hope to try them out in a couple of months. They fit together very well and they have a rough edge at the tip to help with slipping.