I prefer the single level myself, never liked separate switches/levers/rods. My saws don't hit WOT on the high idle position, probably somewhere between 1/2 & 3/4 throttle. I personally defer to the experts who R&D'd and produced my saws that they might have known a little bit about what they're doing. Plus, I've got thirty year old saws with this setup and original P/Cs still in serviceable condition. I can live that kind of service life. But if you don't like, or prefer not to use, just do like Troutfisher; push to full choke till you get the pop then put lever to normal operation position. Nothing wrong with options. I do not start with the brake on, that's safety (CYA) thing. Not for protecting the saw, but protecting operator from injury and thus the manufacturer from liability. I have never replaced a clutch on one of my original saws, on fixer-uppers and company saws but not my own. I do start mine using the high idle position and think nothing of it, but only leave it there long enough to even out(few seconds) then kick it down. I don't do extensive warm ups either, 20-30 seconds then let 'er rip. Saw engines don't require extensive warm up like four strokers or diesels. My .03 cents. I may be way wrong but have yet to fry a properly maintained saw in over 25 years of operating.:monkey:
