Starting my first complete build, Husky 372xp!

[elittle]

First let me say thanks to the members of this forum. Some of you have really helped me out with my newbie questions and saved me a lot of time, I appreciate it!

I decided to build a 372xp because there are tons of parts around and it's not super expensive and it's a pretty legendary saw before the xtorque took over.

I got a Chinese saw kit, an OEM crankcase, OEM used crankshaft, meteor piston/cylinder kit, OEM carb and most of the stuff that goes with it like the boot and air filter base. I ordered SKF bearings and they came with BAO seals which I just installed. If they are no good I bought the tool to remove them and I'll put in better ones.

I've never built a saw before from the ground up so hopefully it goes good. Or you'll get to see it implode.

I just figured I'd post photos to this thread with stuff I've done, maybe it can help someone in the future or will be good for a laugh, it's too soon to know.

I just used a socket/rubber mallet to tap the seals in, it wasn't too difficult. I'll pressure/vac test the case once it's together.




The coating on the real crankcase is way nicer but overall they really look identical, it's pretty crazy.

Thanks for looking!

 

[elittle]

Just put the crank in the clutch side half. I used the tool made by husky and it couldn't have been easier. Although im not sure if i pulled the crank in too far with the tool. I guess I'll find out.

Also realized I had no yamabond or dirko so now it gets to sit for 2 days. Thank you Amazon for driving every small local business out of business.

If anyone sees anything obvious that I did wrong let me know. I almost used motoseal for the case but I found a post that said that was bad.

 

[elittle]

Just broke out the meteor cylinder to compare it to the kit cylinder. The intake and exhaust windows are both lopsided. The ones on the $15 kit jug look better. Not sure if it matters or not though. I don't have an angle grinder to try and fix them so I'm just going to try it how it is.

 

[J D]

When you get the cases together give the crank a tap each way with a soft mallet to center it & relieve the pre load.
An OEM oil pump would be advisable as the Chinese ones don't tend to last long.
That cylinder doesn't look great, maybe send meteor some pic's & see what they say. It's the port timing (ie their heights) thats going to make the most difference... thats what you want to be comparing (along with finish & plating quality)
Check & set squish when you put the cylinder on, you want it close as possible to 0.020".
When you vac & pressure test it (in that order) you should should see the guage flucuate when the engine is rotated but it shouldn't drop significantly overall.

 

[sean donato]

Just put the crank in the clutch side half. I used the tool made by husky and it couldn't have been easier. Although im not sure if i pulled the crank in too far with the tool. I guess I'll find out.

Also realized I had no yamabond or dirko so now it gets to sit for 2 days. Thank you Amazon for driving every small local business out of business.

If anyone sees anything obvious that I did wrong let me know. I almost used motoseal for the case but I found a post that said that was bad. View attachment 1249026

Amazon didn't drive anyone out of business. The people buy from them did. Motoseal would have been just fine to add to the gasket for the crank halves.

 

[elittle]

Amazon didn't drive anyone out of business. The people buy from them did. Motoseal would have been just fine to add to the gasket for the crank halves.

Good to know about the motoseal. I remember before Amazon existed i could find anything i needed at least within maybe 15 minutes of my house. Now for certain things you have to use them or someone on the internet. I can't drive 30 miles for a gopher trap that with gas would end up costing 35$.

I'll refrain from adding personal opinions to my posts and stick to chainsaws.

 

[Gord404]

seals generally go in after your case halfs are together- take the stress off the bearings with a soft blow on the flywheel side and when they run freely put your seals in- usualy coat the outside of the seals with red loctite or motoseal- I have done so many 372's I have tools to set the seal exctly where they are supposed to be, cuts down time and or draging out a seal that wasn't done right- will use motoseal on the one case half with the crank in PTO side but not the other in case it has to come apart again -unless the case looks like it needs it- base gasket - one side to hold it on the case while i'm doing cyliner work- fantastic saws, very popular in my area as well as the big brother 390xp.

 

[sean donato]

Good to know about the motoseal. I remember before Amazon existed i could find anything i needed at least within maybe 15 minutes of my house. Now for certain things you have to use them or someone on the internet. I can't drive 30 miles for a gopher trap that with gas would end up costing 35$.

I'll refrain from adding personal opinions to my posts and stick to chainsaws.

it's a problem most rural areas have. Our biggest issue is the small shops getting bought out/changing hands and going down hill. The closest saw shop got bought out about a year ago now, no more hardware/ Farm store. Their sales and service is terrible. I actually run to the other side of the county if I need something. Waste half a day going it too. Tsc and the like are going yuppie too. Don't even stock plow share bolts anymore. What do you do?
Any way, yep motoseal is fine to use.