STIHL - 024 Kill Switch Contact Spring

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jarralads

ArboristSite Lurker
Joined
Aug 8, 2012
Messages
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Location
Jarrow Upon Tyne.
Hi,

I recently inherited the above Stihl saw. I have worked out the start and choke positions,but it won't stop when the lever is pushed upwards.

It looks like the spring which shorts out the ignition coil is broken, I have managed to download a IPL which shows part number 1125 442 1600/1. As I'm unsure of the configuration could anyone please kindly forward a photo of a working arrangement.

I would also be grateful for a users manual, I can only find one for the 026 machine.

Thanks in advance.

Kind Regards,
jarralads.
 
STIHL-24 Kill Switch.

Hi,

Many thanks for the info and pictures and taking the time to reply. It's greatly appreciated,and is a great help.

Kind Regards,

Jarralads
 
Hi,

I recently inherited the above Stihl saw. I have worked out the start and choke positions,but it won't stop when the lever is pushed upwards.

It looks like the spring which shorts out the ignition coil is broken, I have managed to download a IPL which shows part number 1125 442 1600/1. As I'm unsure of the configuration could anyone please kindly forward a photo of a working arrangement.

I would also be grateful for a users manual, I can only find one for the 026 machine.

Thanks in advance.

Kind Regards,
jarralads.

Should look like this
Killswitchview026.jpg
Killposition026.jpg
Runposition026.jpg
 
Great pics


I don’t think this is your original question or situation ( the wire has probably popped out of the orange cam), but it is one more thing to watch for. It is going to be hard to explain, but I will try using the pics above: On the 026 at least, and probably this one also, the detent spring slips into a slot at the bottom, and behind a molded tab on the front, or high on the left side of the white plastic in the picture. The spring should be solidly held, and flexes at a point in the metal very high on the spring, close to where you see the spring exiting from the white plastic. Thus the point that touches the orange cam is quite below that upper tab. The spring tends to bend moving left and right, because the bend point of the spring that doesn’t move is high, above the point where it touches the orange cam, and the force of the spring works like a detent, pushing directly against the orange cam left and right.

If the upper tab on the white plastic is broken or damaged, then the spring stays in place fine, but it tends to bend /flex/pivot down very low, closer to where the lower rolled end goes into its slot. The point where the spring flexes is now about the same height as where the other end of the spring touches the orange cam. When the orange cam is moved from off to on, the spring tends to move up with the cam. Instead of the forces being left and right perpendicular to the cam, the force raises the spring ever so slightly, which since its pivot point is about the same height pushes the spring hard against the cam and it sort of jams or rides up. No distinct clicky feeling detents.

On one I built for my son, I bent and rebent the spring several times, then put a new spring in, and still didn’t solve it. On closer inspection, which I should have done first, I could just barely see the different motion. My solution to the worn tab was a bit of fine safety wire around the plastic and spring near the top where the worn tab was. Works smooth and reliable now.
 
Stihl - 024 Kill Switch

Hi ,

Many thanks for the pics which are ace,it's all much clearer now. I have the same situation where the detent spring is riding over the top of the cam and jamming it,so I can't push the lever up any further in order to make contact with the ground wire of the ignition coil.

Many thanks agin for taking the time and trouble.

Kind Regards,

Geoff Wells.

Great pics


I don’t think this is your original question or situation ( the wire has probably popped out of the orange cam), but it is one more thing to watch for. It is going to be hard to explain, but I will try using the pics above: On the 026 at least, and probably this one also, the detent spring slips into a slot at the bottom, and behind a molded tab on the front, or high on the left side of the white plastic in the picture. The spring should be solidly held, and flexes at a point in the metal very high on the spring, close to where you see the spring exiting from the white plastic. Thus the point that touches the orange cam is quite below that upper tab. The spring tends to bend moving left and right, because the bend point of the spring that doesn’t move is high, above the point where it touches the orange cam, and the force of the spring works like a detent, pushing directly against the orange cam left and right.

If the upper tab on the white plastic is broken or damaged, then the spring stays in place fine, but it tends to bend /flex/pivot down very low, closer to where the lower rolled end goes into its slot. The point where the spring flexes is now about the same height as where the other end of the spring touches the orange cam. When the orange cam is moved from off to on, the spring tends to move up with the cam. Instead of the forces being left and right perpendicular to the cam, the force raises the spring ever so slightly, which since its pivot point is about the same height pushes the spring hard against the cam and it sort of jams or rides up. No distinct clicky feeling detents.

On one I built for my son, I bent and rebent the spring several times, then put a new spring in, and still didn’t solve it. On closer inspection, which I should have done first, I could just barely see the different motion. My solution to the worn tab was a bit of fine safety wire around the plastic and spring near the top where the worn tab was. Works smooth and reliable now.
 
Hi ,

Many thanks for the pics which are ace,it's all much clearer now. I have the same situation where the detent spring is riding over the top of the cam and jamming it,so I can't push the lever up any further in order to make contact with the ground wire of the ignition coil.

Many thanks agin for taking the time and trouble.

Kind Regards,

Geoff Wells.

On my 026 the spring is contacted by the air filter. Works great with the filter on but not with it off.
 
Many thanks for the pics which are ace,it's all much clearer now. I have the same situation where the detent spring is riding over the top of the cam and jamming it,so I can't push the lever up any further in order to make contact with the ground wire of the ignition coil.



well that is interesting: on mine, it would go off just fine, the cam is moving down on the spring and it moved fine. It just won't not go up (switch down) for run or choke. learn something new everyday on this site.
Does the air filter hold it in properly as posted above? mine didn't.
let us know what the eventual problem and fix are.

k
 
Many thanks for the pics which are ace,it's all much clearer now. I have the same situation where the detent spring is riding over the top of the cam and jamming it,so I can't push the lever up any further in order to make contact with the ground wire of the ignition coil.



well that is interesting: on mine, it would go off just fine, the cam is moving down on the spring and it moved fine. It just won't not go up (switch down) for run or choke. learn something new everyday on this site.
Does the air filter hold it in properly as posted above? mine didn't.
let us know what the eventual problem and fix are.

k

I had to bend the spring slightly to get it where it is supposed to be. The springs are quite cheap to buy at the dealer.
 
024 Kill Switch

Hi,

I'm on a ship in the Caribbean at the moment, I purchased a new spring for 54p before I left home but it looks like I may not have needed it after all, but it's a piddling amount anyway and good to have a spare. I think now that it's either not contacting the underside of the air filter properly,or it's been bent out of shape by the previous Owner. I'll let you know the outcome when I have looked at it when I'm back in the UK.

And once again many thanks for the comprehensive photos and explanation.

Kind Regards,

jarralads.


Many thanks for the pics which are ace,it's all much clearer now. I have the same situation where the detent spring is riding over the top of the cam and jamming it,so I can't push the lever up any further in order to make contact with the ground wire of the ignition coil.



well that is interesting: on mine, it would go off just fine, the cam is moving down on the spring and it moved fine. It just won't not go up (switch down) for run or choke. learn something new everyday on this site.
Does the air filter hold it in properly as posted above? mine didn't.
let us know what the eventual problem and fix are.

k
 
Stihl - 024 Kill Switch

Hi Kevin.

You wrote to me a few months ago concerning the kill switch on a Stihl 024. Along with some ace photos.

Just to let you know that I fixed it with a new detent stop switch which is shaped less like a fish hook and has more of a curve to it so it doesn't foul the stop structure and ride over the top.

Many thanks again for taking the time and trouble,much appreciated.


Kind Regards,

Geoff Wells,






Great pics


I don’t think this is your original question or situation ( the wire has probably popped out of the orange cam), but it is one more thing to watch for. It is going to be hard to explain, but I will try using the pics above: On the 026 at least, and probably this one also, the detent spring slips into a slot at the bottom, and behind a molded tab on the front, or high on the left side of the white plastic in the picture. The spring should be solidly held, and flexes at a point in the metal very high on the spring, close to where you see the spring exiting from the white plastic. Thus the point that touches the orange cam is quite below that upper tab. The spring tends to bend moving left and right, because the bend point of the spring that doesn’t move is high, above the point where it touches the orange cam, and the force of the spring works like a detent, pushing directly against the orange cam left and right.

If the upper tab on the white plastic is broken or damaged, then the spring stays in place fine, but it tends to bend /flex/pivot down very low, closer to where the lower rolled end goes into its slot. The point where the spring flexes is now about the same height as where the other end of the spring touches the orange cam. When the orange cam is moved from off to on, the spring tends to move up with the cam. Instead of the forces being left and right perpendicular to the cam, the force raises the spring ever so slightly, which since its pivot point is about the same height pushes the spring hard against the cam and it sort of jams or rides up. No distinct clicky feeling detents.

On one I built for my son, I bent and rebent the spring several times, then put a new spring in, and still didn’t solve it. On closer inspection, which I should have done first, I could just barely see the different motion. My solution to the worn tab was a bit of fine safety wire around the plastic and spring near the top where the worn tab was. Works smooth and reliable now.
 
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