Need Help With Stihl 015AV On/Off Switch

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pioneerguy600, I have not had the flywheel off. After I inherited the saw, it didn't run so I figured the carb was gummed up so purchased a few parts for it (carb kit, aftermarket fuel line, etc) and am soon going to spend a Saturday getting it going again. The reason for this post is because I remember the switch never worked so I wanted to fix that too as long as the saw is disassembled. Also, I see the #16 wire in the diagram from my other post. Is #17 Contact Sleeve the "nub" that we're talking about?

AoxoMoxoA, I checked for continuity with the switch removed.
 
Walleye Guy said:
pioneerguy600, I have not had the flywheel off. After I inherited the saw, it didn't run so I figured the carb was gummed up so purchased a few parts for it (carb kit, aftermarket fuel line, etc) and am soon going to spend a Saturday getting it going again. The reason for this post is because I remember the switch never worked so I wanted to fix that too as long as the saw is disassembled. Also, I see the #16 wire in the diagram from my other post. Is #17 Contact Sleeve the "nub" that we're talking about?

AoxoMoxoA, I checked for continuity with the switch removed.
Click to expand...

Yes, the Contact Sleeve is the "nub" I spoke of...

And yes, with the switch removed, if you place one of your multimeter probes on the case, and one on the contact sleeve, there will be continuity. In doing so, you have created an electrical path from case to coil, which duplicates what the switch does when, in the stop position, it creates the electrical path from case to coil, killing the spark.
 
AoxoMoxoA, I would like to respectfully say that doesn't make any sense to me. If the switch is physically removed then shouldn't the circuit be open (ie no continuity)? It's Monday so maybe I'm just slow today. :omg:

Getting back to the wire: we've established that the nub is the end of the #16 wire. Since I only see a nub, does it look to you like the contact portion is missing? Or does mine look normal/typical to you? Previously you said it looks good but I just wanted to confirm that there isn't a contact missing.

Thank-you to everyone for the help thus far!
 
Walleye Guy said:
AoxoMoxoA, I would like to respectfully say that doesn't make any sense to me. If the switch is physically removed then shouldn't the circuit be open (ie no continuity)?

Getting back to the wire: we've established that the nub is the end of the #16 wire. Since I only see a nub, does it look to you like the contact portion is missing? Or does mine look normal/typical to you? Previously you said it looks good but I just wanted to confirm that there isn't a contact missing.

Thank-you to everyone for the help thus far!
Click to expand...
I can't speak to what makes sense to you, but I've tried to explain how the switch component works on the 015, to the best of my ability.

For what it's worth, on MY perfectly functioning 015L, there IS continuity between the case and the contact sleeve, as there is supposed to be for it to do its job, which is grounding out the coil to the case.

As to the condition of your contact sleeve, which sits within the brass "grommet" surrounding it, all appears to be exactly like the one on my saw.

Best of luck.
 
Walleye Guy said:
pioneerguy600, I have not had the flywheel off. After I inherited the saw, it didn't run so I figured the carb was gummed up so purchased a few parts for it (carb kit, aftermarket fuel line, etc) and am soon going to spend a Saturday getting it going again. The reason for this post is because I remember the switch never worked so I wanted to fix that too as long as the saw is disassembled. Also, I see the #16 wire in the diagram from my other post. Is #17 Contact Sleeve the "nub" that we're talking about?

AoxoMoxoA, I checked for continuity with the switch removed.
Click to expand...
Yes #17 is the contact, usually the contact is just a brass cylinder like tube that is crimped onto the end of the wire, it sticks up through the metal engine casing inside an insulating grommet, likely made from a rubber like material. To get a sort of visual pic of how it works, the electric charge comes up the wire from the points or module to that brass nib, we call that the hot or electrified side, the switch spring steel bridges or connects the brass nib to the engine case and thus shorts out the spark to the spark plug shutting off the engine.
 
AoxoMoxoA, thank-you for the grace and patience. : ) You,pioneerguy600 and the others have been a tremendous help. I'll report back once I get it running. I first have a couple Saturdays of work on our vehicles and then will get into the chain saw. I suppose my next question would be for a good link on tuning the mixture screws but I'm pretty sure I can find many of those on You Tube.

I do understand grounding the plug to shut it off. My grandfather used to have a Trac Vac and his yard had a lot of oak trees so I would help him with leaf clean-up in the fall. The Trac Vac had a Briggs & Stratton engine but there was no on/off switch. Rather, it just had a piece of thin metal with a point on it. You were supposed to push on the lever so the point would pierce the plug boot and contact the plug thus grounding it and shutting it off.
 
Default starting point for both the H and L screws on the 015 Walbro carb (HDC I believe) is 3/4-turn out from seated. Fine tune from there.
 
Thank-you, I'll make a note of that. Again, hoping to get back into this right after doing some overdue work on our family van and my daily driver. I really appreciate all the help from all of you!
 

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