stihl 025 not oiling

[Lakeside53]

thanks a lot for all your help guys, the saw is back up and running thanks to a little jb weld and a new clutch spring

and the oil is coming out on the bar just fine.

I was wondering what kind of life expectancy I can expect from this repair. I'm worried that the heat from running the saw will loosen up the patch. jb weld has a quote on their package that says one guy fixed a cracked engine block so i'm guessing it can take the heat.

the jb weld seems to be holding on tight but it doesn't seem very hard. I can scratch it with my fingernail quite easily.

I can't wait to make some chips fly with it, maybe this weekend.

thanks
James

The JB Welds will be fine, but it's "hardness only as good as the "mixer". You need EXACT equal parts for a correct cure, and that's tough to do in small quantities. You can get a couple of hypodermic syringes and load the two parts into the tubes - makes it much easier to meter the output.

LIfetime - probably longer than the saw!

 

[JONSSTIHL]

I think I caught the disease all ready because everytime I go get parts for my stihl I keep looking at the jonsered rack my dealer has out by the cash. that 2156 is really winking at me.

and I'm all ready thinking about a muffler mod for my 025

I love this disease

James

 

[Lakeside53]

I think I caught the disease all ready because everytime I go get parts for my stihl I keep looking at the jonsered rack my dealer has out by the cash. that 2156 is really winking at me.

and I'm all ready thinking about a muffler mod for my 025

I love this disease

James

The only cure is spending more $$$$, and it's temporary

 

[JONSSTIHL]

It is leaking oil again and not getting any oil on the bar.

I guess I didn't put enough epoxy on the first time. now the problem is I can't get the clutch off, I torqued it to spec 37 lb ft when I installed it but man is it ever on tight.

I've been using some small dia starter rope to block the piston I shove a little more rope in the cylinder with some needle nose pliers but that doesn't seem to do the trick anymore.

I guess I will try with some thicker rope

thanks
James

 

[THALL10326]

It is leaking oil again and not getting any oil on the bar.

I guess I didn't put enough epoxy on the first time. now the problem is I can't get the clutch off, I torqued it to spec 37 lb ft when I installed it but man is it ever on tight.

I've been using some small dia starter rope to block the piston I shove a little more rope in the cylinder with some needle nose pliers but that doesn't seem to do the trick anymore.

I guess I will try with some thicker rope

thanks
James

I always use a long breaker bar on clutches and gently and slowly apply pressure untill she lets go. The long handle can really put some power on the turn.

Leaking again, not good. I don't think its because your expoxy job didn't hold but that theres a channel somewhere under it letting the oil flow past. Can you post a pic of that saw so we can get a good look at how much damage there was to fix? I've seen a few that were well beyond repair, yours may be one of those..

 

[JONSSTIHL]

I got the clutch off , the only other rope i had was too big so I just shoved more of the rope into the cylinder. the first time I tried it felt like it was going past TDC.

the epoxy looks like it was holding on pretty good. the worm had some oil on it so I'm wondering if the oil pump is not sealing anymore where the little pinion gear is.

I flushed out the oil tank with gas and no gas leaked out so I'm not sure where to go next on this one. I would think that if oil was leaking out the gas would leak out also.

I looked at the connector and it is kind of see through and it is still red so maybe the gas didn't have time to make it's way through to the repaired area.

I don't have a dig. camera but I may be able to borrow my parents camera.

although it is pretty hard to see the actual damage with the epoxy covering it.

I am an inspector in a overhaul shop for aircraft engines so I like to think that I have a good eye for that sort of thing. there was only a small hole the dia of a pencil in the oil passage just below the pump. I thought I was doing well when I added a little epoxy over the passage that goes to the bar because it was obvious it had been worn down a little but not all the way through the passage, but I guess I didn't pay enough attention to the prep work maybe there is a crack somewhere.

Thanks

James

 

[sugarbush]

I got the clutch off , the only other rope i had was too big so I just shoved more of the rope into the cylinder. the first time I tried it felt like it was going past TDC.

the epoxy looks like it was holding on pretty good. the worm had some oil on it so I'm wondering if the oil pump is not sealing anymore where the little pinion gear is.

I flushed out the oil tank with gas and no gas leaked out so I'm not sure where to go next on this one. I would think that if oil was leaking out the gas would leak out also.

I looked at the connector and it is kind of see through and it is still red so maybe the gas didn't have time to make it's way through to the repaired area.

I don't have a dig. camera but I may be able to borrow my parents camera.

although it is pretty hard to see the actual damage with the epoxy covering it.

I am an inspector in a overhaul shop for aircraft engines so I like to think that I have a good eye for that sort of thing. there was only a small hole the dia of a pencil in the oil passage just below the pump. I thought I was doing well when I added a little epoxy over the passage that goes to the bar because it was obvious it had been worn down a little but not all the way through the passage, but I guess I didn't pay enough attention to the prep work maybe there is a crack somewhere.

Thanks

James

start it without the clutch off but don't let it rev up much, just enough to pump oil, should be able to see where the leak is. when finding the leak clean area good with mineral spirits or acetone, flush with water and dry good, I use Seal-All and you can get it at wallmart. it's gas and oil resistant. it flows like silicone and bonds good. should have read: start it with the clutch off.

 

[JONSSTIHL]

I think I hit a break through today. the last time I worked on the saw I left it laying on it's side with the clutch side down and now it appears that there is oil leaking from the top of the pump. either between the pump and the housing or from the top of the pump where the pinion gear passes through the pump body. The pump is secure in the housing with no movement and the hole was not in the top part near the gear it was in the bottom passage near the connector.

how common is it for the pump to leak from between the gear and the pump body. is that how they fail or do they more commonly seize up.

thanks
James

 

[Stihldoc]

Leave the oil pump in place and THOROUGHLY clean the area around the hole with carb. cleaner or denatured alcohol. Get ALL the oily muck off the plastic. Mix up a small amount of JB weld and apply a thin coat over the hole. Lots of 025 cases have been saved this way. I prefer the JB Quik- it sets in 5 minutes. Good Luck.

 

[JONSSTIHL]

I all ready patched up the hole, I was just mentioning it's location to indicate that the top part of the pump was not damaged as far as I can see from whatever it was that torn the hole in the housing.

I used jb weld and it seems to be holding up quite well but it is still leaking oil and I think it is the pump that is leaking

I guess my question is

is it normal for the pump to start leaking oil at the top between the pump body and the gear that goes inside (is this how they typically fail or do they tend to seize up

thanks
James

 

[Lakeside53]

Not sure I've ever seen a bad 021/23/25 pump... Almost aways the worm or the case that fails.

 

[JONSSTIHL]

I will be taking a look at it more in depth this weekend. I'm guess i'm left with a leak probably from between the pump housing and the case. I will try and take the pump out and putting it back in with a little silicone in the hole to get it to seal.

the case still looks good, I'm hoping this will fix it.

thanks
James

 

[JONSSTIHL]

I checked it out and there is nothing wrong. I put some gas in the inlet to the pump and it doesn't leak out. and the pump works when I turn it by hand. so I put everything back together and tried it and I<m getting oil on the bar.

maybe it is a crack that only opens up when the saw gets hot.

or maybe it was what I was cutting that made the chain get too hot. I was using it to cut a few small pieces may 10 cuts then my dad asked me to cut a checkerboard pattern into the top of 2 stumps so I went at it and by the time I got done the second stump the bar and chain was smoking and was really hot. this was with rm safety chain and a stihl bar

thanks
James

 

[JONSSTIHL]

just a quick update,

I just put everything back together and tried it. I put about a tank of gas through it and no problems other than it doesn't idle for very long, I need to adjust the carb.

The bar is getting oil even when the saw is hot so I guess it must have been the stump I was cutting that overheated the bar and chain because it works great now.

thanks a lot for all your help guys
James