stihl 026 problems

[SteveSr]

Run the Saw without the airfilter.

Just once please.

Report back.

"Mesh style" filter. Is it aftermarket or OEM?

Notorious Saw for pulling choke flap closed. I've seen guys go as far as splitting the case when it was the air filter.

I have seen an OEM filter do this and was VERY surprised. It would rev up o.k. until this point and then die when the choke got pulled in. Found an air filter spring that didn't have this issue and just replaced the spring. Initially I thought it was the ignition dieing!

 

[SteveSr]

It is -29C outside.
In the morning, new plug. Ill try it again.

And to clearify it starts with choke and then runs with choke off idles and runs but wont keep a high rpm when going through wood. (Wont run with choke on after it has warmed up. At -29C, that takes a bit of time)

I don't run very good at -29C either! I am surprised that you could get it ti start at all at those temperatures. This brings up another point could this be carburetor icing? You should be able to see readily on the run without the air cleaner. Stihl makes arctic version saws with carb heaters and heated handles. Sounds like you need one of those for these conditions!

 

[Orangeinthebarn]

Make sure the barb on the carb that fuel line attaches to doesn't have a small crack and a very small fuel leak. After replacing fuel line/ filter and impulse my problem was the barb on carb had a very tiny crack. A new Wt194 and it runs like new

 

[SteveSr]

Make sure the barb on the carb that fuel line attaches to doesn't have a small crack and a very small fuel leak. After replacing fuel line/ filter and impulse my problem was the barb on carb had a very tiny crack. A new Wt194 and it runs like new

Yes, found and fixed (by fitting replacement) several of these. The fitting should NOT rotate on the shaft. Replacement fittings are available from Walbro. Removal is with vice-grips and replacement is press fit. Much cheaper than a new carb!

 

[Ykmajik]

Something else you should be doing when running your saws at those temps(if you aren't already). One the top cover there is a 2 sided black cover, one side is solid and the other side has a hole in it. That cover needs to be repositioned with the hole open to allow hot air from the cylinder area into the filter box to help prevent carb icing.

 

[Okie]

AND
Heads Up:
You mentioned that you are not familiar with tweaking chainsaw carbs is why I mention this one.

Ask here about how to adjust the H jet BEFORE adjusting it or you can easily lean out and ruin your engine in short order if you adjust the H jet and it quits bogging and starts running and cutting like a scalded ape when in the cut.

 

[Orangeinthebarn]

Yes, found and fixed (by fitting replacement) several of these. The fitting should NOT rotate on the shaft. Replacement fittings are available from Walbro. Removal is with vice-grips and replacement is press fit. Much cheaper than a new carb!

If you want my old carb that needs the barb pm me and I'll mail it to you no charge.

 

[Okie]

AND
Heads Up:
You mentioned that you are not familiar with tweaking chainsaw carbs is why I mention this one.

Ask here about how to adjust the H jet BEFORE adjusting it or you can easily lean out and ruin your engine in short order if you adjust the H jet and it quits bogging and starts running and cutting like a scalded ape when in the cut.

for example: ( I borrowed this one from another thread)
Tune old saws in the wood.
Adjust the H side so that it burbles (four strokes) at WOT unloaded, and runs clean when under load in the cut. When you lift cutting pressure, it should immediately revert to four stroking. Warm up the saw before tuning it.

-John 3:16-

 

[Wood Doctor]

I hope its not scored but that would not be the end of the world, they are very easy to replace the P&C on and not hard to find parts for.

Agreed. I have rebuilt three of these 026's with new top ends. All ran well after that. I've also rebuilt two 024's with the same problem and a third is in progress. Great project for me to work on tomorrow. If successful, I'll post Pics.

 

[pioneerguy600]

Agreed. I have rebuilt three of these 026's with new top ends. All ran well after that. I've also rebuilt two 024's with the same problem and a third is in progress. Great project for me to work on tomorrow. If successful, I'll post Pics.

You have quite a few to go before you catch up to me, have a good one and Happy New Years.

 

[mckee]

Have been busy with my pickup, old fords are always one thing or another but hope to have another picture of the top of piston and results of changing the impulse and intank fuel lines tomorrow.

 

[mckee]

I have changed the impulse and intake line. Have to post a picture of a piston but new question, I have lost a couple of the screws and have to go replace those but I have an extra piece. I cant place it, will post a picture shortly.

 

[mckee]

So right now I have a spare 026 to use as my picture as I put the puzzle back together, I missing a 8,9,10 from page 28 of the repair manual, that is two screws with course threads and a grommet for the housing top left above carb housing. I lost the parts when I moved this off the bench and to my brothers house. Clearly a bad idea.
Bright side, fuel lines are changed and carb is back together with new parts, didnt change the screen but blew it out with carb cleaner. So from the pictures any idea what the metal thing is beside the clutch cover nuts?

 

[farmer steve]

So right now I have a spare 026 to use as my picture as I put the puzzle back together, I missing a 8,9,10 from page 28 of the repair manual, that is two screws with course threads and a grommet for the housing top left above carb housing. I lost the parts when I moved this off the bench and to my brothers house. Clearly a bad idea.
Bright side, fuel lines are changed and carb is back together with new parts, didnt change the screen but blew it out with carb cleaner. So from the pictures any idea what the metal thing is beside the clutch cover nuts?

need to go check my parts bin but i think part # 8 on page 12 of the ipl. i think there were 2 different styles to hold the annular buffer in. i remember seeing that part a while back when working on my 1 026. let you know for sure in a bit.

 

[farmer steve]

found it. this came off of a 026 black lever saw. i replaced it with the cup style which i think works better on the buffer. note the coarse screw (#9) in the ipl. this is for the annular buffer above the recoil.

 

[mckee]

found it. this came off of a 026 black lever saw. i replaced it with the cup style which i think works better on the buffer. note the coarse screw (#9) in the ipl. this is for the annular buffer above the recoil.View attachment 642776

Thank you very much for the reply, that tells me that since I went and bought the cup style today with the screw that I wont be needing it. That is great. I finally have the saw together except I am struggling with the contact spring and the stihl dealer in blind river didnt have one in stock. I have the old one and the other 026 I have has one on it but it is slightly different.

 

[mckee]

Picture of red switch shaft is the saw in question, the black shift saw is my friends saw

 

[farmer steve]

Thank you very much for the reply, that tells me that since I went and bought the cup style today with the screw that I wont be needing it. That is great. I finally have the saw together except I am struggling with the contact spring and the stihl dealer in blind river didnt have one in stock. I have the old one and the other 026 I have has one on it but it is slightly different.

use the cup style and save the screw in a baggie marked what it is for. i'll look at my contact springs in the morning.

 

[farmer steve]

Picture of red switch shaft is the saw in question, the black shift saw is my friends saw

the one on the red shaft saw looks bent. when in doubt get a new one. not sure if there is a difference on the two saws.

 

[mckee]

for example: ( I borrowed this one from another thread)
Tune old saws in the wood.
Adjust the H side so that it burbles (four strokes) at WOT unloaded, and runs clean when under load in the cut. When you lift cutting pressure, it should immediately revert to four stroking. Warm up the saw before tuning it.

-John 3:16-

Thank you for the advice, after I get the contact spring back in place I should be able to start the adjustments.