Stihl 026 vs Dolmar PS5100 - My initial observations

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davefr

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I just rec'd a new Dolmar PS5100 from Cutter's Edge and did some comparison with my Stihl 026. Here are my initial observations:

1. Design/engineering - Both saws seem very well engineered but I'd give the Dolmar a slight edge. Just my gut feel from looking it over.

2. Weight - When both saws are outfitted with 18" bars and fueled up ready to cut wood they weight exactly 15.75#. The data sheets show the 026 being about 1 lb lighter but I found them nearly identical.

3. Features - The PS5100 has an adjustable oiler, Stihl 026 (non Pro model) does not. I really like the oil and gas caps on the Dolmar with the raised edge. I'm amazed that Stihl hasn't figured out we can have slippery hands and don't want to find a screwdriver to fuel up. However the Dolmar has very little slack in the gas cap retainer. It can get in the way during refueling.

I also like the Dolmar's access cover that can be removed by 3 simple clips. It looks like maintainence/repair is very easy on the Dolmar.

4. Balance - The 026 with 18" bar points down about 10-20 degrees from horizontal when balanced by the handle. The Dolmar actually points up about 5 degrees.

5. Mod. Friendly - The 026 muffler is really easy to modify. It's 2 halves and the interior baffle and outlet port can be easily enlarged. However my 026 carb has a fixed HS jet that I had to drilled from .56 to .57 mm to richen it up. I think the new MS260's have gone back to adjustable jets.

The Dolmar muffler is crimped. It looks to be more difficult to modify but probably not a big deal. The outlet deflector looks pretty restrictive. The Dolmar has limiter caps on the carb. You can carefully remove the rubber dust seal on the case and get easy access to the screws. If you need more range it looks like a couple nips will remove the wings and give you a fully adjustable carb.

6. Usable bar - I measured the usable bar length on both saws and the Dolmar is 17.25" yet the 026 is the full 18". Maybe Stihl provides slightly longer chain.

7. Starting - Both saws start after several pulls cold and one pull hot. However the 026 is a very easy pull (like a lawnmower) yet the Dolmar requires a very strong yank. The Dolmar manual says there's a compression release but there isn't one on my saw. I think the Dolmar could really benefit from compression release whereas it isn't needed on the Stihl.

The Dolmar control is 3 position. Full choke, on and stop. There isn't a half choke setting. (I still miss the old pull chokes)

8. Cutting test - This really isn't fair because my 026 is broken in and has an opened up muffler and a .57mm main jet. The Dolmar is just as it's come from the factory with it's first tank of fuel. I took both saws to a 18" Doug Fir log and made some "pizzas". They both plow thru it without slowing down. I think my 026 outperformed the Dolmar by a tad. However after muffler mods, carb tuning, and break in the Dolmar should surpass the 026. I'm not sure how sharp the factory chain is on the Dolmar but my 026 chain was recently filed.

The Dolmar seems very smooth and accelerated almost instantly. There's hardly any vibration on the 026 and no noticable vibration on the Dolmar.

9. Support - I was somewhat apprehensive buying this saw since the U.S. Dolmar support channel is so weak. However getting parts for my other Dolmar (DCS 401) was easier then getting parts from Stihl since I could do it online vs. making 2 trips to a B&M Stihl retailer. I hope the Makita parts distribution network supports Dolmar.

12/10 Update:
I've opened up the muffler (seperate thread) and increased the H jet to 1/8 turn beyond the limiter. The saw has had about 3-4 tanks so it's well on it's way to be broken it. At this point I'd say it definately outperforms my 026 with no weight penalty. The saw feels as though it floats thru the cut - perfect balance and not even a hint of vibration.

Yesterday I did some stump cutting and this saw performed the task very efficiently. (I usually pull out the 046 for stumps)
 
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Good write up! One small correction: Since 2000 Stihl has had screw-driver-less caps on oil and gas on the "026" and the model then changed to the MS260
 
Dave, Good to see you're happy with the saw. When you get some time on the PS-5100S it will easily outcut you're 026!

Steve
 
I too enjoyed the right up, but did find one mistake regarding the Dolmar. You mentioned that there was no half throttle on the Dolmar. This is incorrect, the half throttle is achieved by lifting the lever to full choke position and then pushing it down to the run position. This holds the throttle shaft at half throttle until the throttle trigger is pressed and releases the holding mechanism on the carburetor.
 
We are indeed looking for more dealer support. The western half of the USA has not had Dolmar representation for the past 10 years. We do now have distribution that covers the USA. The Dolmar Distributor for Oregon is Magneto Power, they have a new building in the Portland area seems to me it is in Clackamas. Phone number is 800-733-7388.
 
What chain were you running on the two saws? That will of course, make a world of difference. If you are running the stock .325 pitch, 33SL chain that comes with the 5100, I don't think you'll find a slower cutting chain out there. I'm guessing your 026 is probably wearing a better chain. If you put some stihl RS or oregon LP on the 5100, I think it will send that 026 running with its tail between its legs.
 
I was referring to half choke vs. half throttle. I read that you could get half throttle by the method you described but as far as the choke I believe it's either full open or full closed.

Dolmar_Tech_Mgr said:
I too enjoyed the right up, but did find one mistake regarding the Dolmar. You mentioned that there was no half throttle on the Dolmar. This is incorrect, the half throttle is achieved by lifting the lever to full choke position and then pushing it down to the run position. This holds the throttle shaft at half throttle until the throttle trigger is pressed and releases the holding mechanism on the carburetor.
 
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Yes, I was running the stock .325 chain on the Dolmar. (I'm guessing it's Oregon chain but not 100% sure). My 026 also has .325 chain but it's Stihl RS.

I would like to cross swap chains or use the same chain to test both saws. However I'm not sure they have the same number of drive links even though both bars are 18".


brent denny said:
What chain were you running on the two saws? That will of course, make a world of difference. If you are running the stock .325 pitch, 33SL chain that comes with the 5100, I don't think you'll find a slower cutting chain out there. I'm guessing your 026 is probably wearing a better chain. If you put some stihl RS or oregon LP on the 5100, I think it will send that 026 running with its tail between its legs.
 
I think the chains are a different # of drive links. I believe the dolmar is 72 and the stihl is 74 (hence the longer useable cutting length). As I mentioned before, once you have equal chains and your saw is broke in, it should be a no contest.
 
When we first ran the 5100 at Joker's GTG it had the stock chain on it. That was the slowest "sharp" chain I have ever seen. The saw was just sitting in the cut at full throttle and nothing was happening. You could push on the saw and it wouldn't bog.

The Dolmar rep later swapped the stock chain for some real chain and it made a world of difference; just dig in the spikes, an easy lift on the rear handle and it sunk through the wood.
 
rmihalek said:
When we first ran the 5100 at Joker's GTG it had the stock chain on it. That was the slowest "sharp" chain I have ever seen. The saw was just sitting in the cut at full throttle and nothing was happening. You could push on the saw and it wouldn't bog.

The Dolmar rep later swapped the stock chain for some real chain and it made a world of difference; just dig in the spikes, an easy lift on the rear handle and it sunk through the wood.

I think you guys are right about the stock chain not being sharp.

During my initial test, my 026 was throwing off nice big curly chips. I noticed the Dolmar was throwing off a lot of fine sawdust mixed in with the chips.

Do you think the chain is crap or just needs to be filled?
 
The chain is crap. I'm sure it was fairly sharp out of the box but the tooth is just way too small. Add that to the fact that is has the triple humped tie straps and you have all the makings for a chain that feeds into the wood very poorly.
 
davefr said:
I was referring to half choke vs. half throttle. I read that you could get half throttle by the method you described but as far as the choke I believe it's either full open or full closed.
All of our saws chokes are either full open or full closed.
 
brent denny said:
The chain is crap. I'm sure it was fairly sharp out of the box but the tooth is just way too small. Add that to the fact that is has the triple humped tie straps and you have all the makings for a chain that feeds into the wood very poorly.
I have never tried the SL chain, and I have no intention to.
The appearance of the chain alone is enough to conclude that Brent has to be right in his observations.
That :angry2: chain is probably even worse than the Stihl RM2.....
 
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davefr said:
The Dolmar manual says there's a compression release but there isn't one on my saw. I think the Dolmar could really benefit from compression release whereas it isn't needed on the Stihl.
If the Dolmar had a comp release, I think it would have been designated
PS-5100SH (or HS).

davefr said:
The Dolmar control is 3 position. Full choke, on and stop. There isn't a half choke setting. (I still miss the old pull chokes)
Dolmar_Tech_Mgr said:
All of our saws chokes are either full open or full closed.
I don't think the MS260/026 has a halv choke position either - What often is referred to as halv choke really is the fast idle position.
 
What chain would you all recommend for the Dolmar 5100?? (.325, .050, 72 drive links).

I'm considering Bailey's Woodsmans Pro 20RC. Is there a better choice for all around use?
 
Davefr,
I've only had one loop of Woodsman Pro .325 for my Husky 346XP but it seemed like a fine chain. Most of the time I'll either order Carlton from somebody up North or else I'll buy Stihl RM locally at the Stihl dealer. The only other chain available locally is Oregon and I've found it to be not as hard as the others, needs filing twice as often and therefore doesn't last as long.

I think Stihl RM is the best .325 and Woodsman/ Carlton (I think they are the same) as the best value.
 
In chisel chain, stihl 23RS or oregon 20LP cant be beat. You said "all around use". I'm not sure what you mean but if most of the stuff is clean go with chisel. If dirty, semi-chisel. BTW Rocky, if I remember right, the oregon chain you tried was 33LG. If you get a chance, try the 20LP. It is definately harder and has a much bigger tooth. I think you would be pleasantly surprised.
 
Actually I've run lots of Oregon chain, both LG and LP. Like I said, it's the only brand available locally except for Stihl (I currently have Oregon LP on one of my 372's). And I'm surprised somebody remembers when Russ sent me a loop of .325 LG to try. I had forgotten that myself.
 

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