Stihl 026 Won't Start

[secureland]

OK thanks Madrone,

I'm going to do the vacum test, but I will do the carb cleaning anyway. It will be a learning experience and hopefully eliminate that as a possible problem.

I'll start reading about cleaning the carb, wish me luck!

Also, will starting the saw without the gas cap on (not sure how I'll do this) eliiminate a possible problem?
Bill

 

[secureland]

Vacuum Testing Question

While searching for info on vacuum testing i found this helpful post by 4paws.
Is this the technique to use for my 026 and are there any specific things that need to be done to vacuum test the 026?

Regarding carb cleaning, I have been searching, but haven't found a step-by-step guide for people like me with no experience. perhaps the various spellings of the word full word make it hard to come up with results.

http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?t=42768&highlight=poormans+vacuum

Thanks,
Bill

 

[teacherman]

http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?t=69784


Try this one, a very recent thread.

 

[madrone]

Hey again Bill, good to see you haven't given up. Your on the easy side of the learning curve.
The vacuum test procedure is right on and you should be able to pinpoint any seal or gasket leaks by following it.
The carb info is also very good but still may confuse you if your new so I'll offer a brief recap.
The carb has 2 removable sides. open the one with the big screw in the center. try not to damage the gasket underneath (if you have to then you should replace it) and remember the way the gasket and pump diaphragm went on. Clean the diaph. lightly. In a hole inside there is a little screen. Prick it out w/ a needle and clean it.
The other side is held on with 4 screws, open it up the same as the other. If the Diaphragm is not flexible it needs replacement. Remove the little screw in there and be careful to watch how the arm, rod, needle and spring go and not to lose anything. There is probably also a slotted jet that unscrews, remove that.
Now remove the L and H screws, don't mix them up.
Take the carb body and spray it clean with carb cleaner especially in the holes. Follow lakesides info above. Don't use compressed air but if any holes are clogged use a piece of wire to clear them. If it's really gunky soak it for a while.
Now clean the little pieces and put them back the way you found them.
Reset the L and H to 1 turn out (or whatever it says on the air filter cover)
And yur Done.
Hope this helps

 

[secureland]

Thanks for the help. Here I sit next to the Walbro carb. from Singapore preparing to disassemble it

The thought went through my head that perhaps the tank vent isn't working? Is there a simple way to check the tank vent?

Would a bad tank vent cause it to not start at all without fuel poured directly into the carb?

I'm going to do the carb cleaning, but am wondering about the vent.

Thanks,
Bill

 

[Lakeside53]

Not usually from cold. If you're concerned, just pull the tank vent out, or loosen the gas cap.

 

[madrone]

I've never experienced a plugged tank vent so I'm not sure but I'd think that it would cause the saw to run rough or die after some vacuum built up which would take some time. I've seen some very beat up/dirty saws and never had a vent plug up, but hey, it happen i'm sure.
Good luck on the carb. i'm sure you'll have it runnin in no time.
If you need a rebuild kit check e-bay. Lots of AS members sell on there, Cbailey is one.

 

[Fish]

Take the cover with the 4 screws off, and carefully peel off the diaphragm
with care, do not bend the metal disc, leave the gasket stuck to the carb body.

Loosen the screw on the hinge pin, and carefully remove the lever and needle
and do not lose the spring.

Next, remove the other cover with the one big screw, and remove the
one diaphragm, and leave the gasket stuck to the cover.
Now, hold the carb up to a light source, and look through the hole
where
the needle sits, it is likely plugged.

You need to blow the crud out of that passage with carb spray or air, also
clean out the other holes, remove the mixture screws and clean, but do
one at a time, so you cannot mix them up. You can see light through the
screen, so try to leave it in.
Reassemble, set the mixture screws @ one turn out each, and install
and see how the saw runs.

If you use compressed air, don't go crazy.

 

[Lakeside53]

I'm still betting it's a flywheel side seal:greenchainsaw:

 

[Fish]

Yes, could very well be, but he needs to become familiar with the carb,
which normally is the first stop, at least it would be for me.

 

[kevin j]

Instead of compressed air, I use short pieces of Tygon tubing of different diameters, about 12 inches long. Put one end flat against the hole to be cleaned and blow through the tubing. works better for me as I can tell if air is going where by sound. With compressed air, too much noise, and the pressure tends to send loose parts flying out of holes.
Also, on motorcycle Mikunis, there are several ways to clean circuits, without removing the carb, by using the blow tubes.

I put colored tape on one end so I am always blowing on the clean end......carb cleaner has a really bad aftertaste.....

 

[secureland]

Carb Cleaner in Eye, Duh!

I can't say I wasn't warned!

Hopefully some others will learn from my carelessness:
I Strongly recommend a full face shield and safety goggles while using pressurized carb cleaner. I had a scare, thankfully my eye is OK.

Watch your eyes... fluid can squirt out at you if you don't know what you are doing...

Or even if you think you know what your doing!!![/QUOTE]

so true....nothing quite like carb cleaner in the eye

While cleaning the outside of the carb prior to disassembly, I had made a few sprays and realized I needed to be careful. I still managed to underestimate the pressure of the carb cleaner, and while spraying a recessed area of the outside of the carb I got a good shot of it in the left eye and even some in the right eye.
I immediately flushed both eyes out under continual cold/luke-warm water for 15 minutes (as stated on container), and spent more time flushing the left eye.
After about 7 minutes of flushing I checked in the mirror and noticed a portion of cloudiness on the blue iris area of the eye, and a small portion of the black retina had "disappeared" (for lack of a better term). My vision was a bit blurry in the left eye and I decided not to take chances, so it was a trip to the ER at 11:00 PM.
On the way down my vision started to improve ( a huge relief, wife was driving). They did more flushing of the eye at the ER and a check for damage. The doc determined that it was a corneal irritation from the chemical and the eye would recover quickly and easily, but still required a follow up with the ophthalmologist (which I'm hoping will be a quick, routine visit) By the time I left the ER the cloudiness of the blue iris was gone, and the retina appeared complete.
At first, Poison Control said that an ER trip wasn't necessary, then we told them about the blurred vision and they advised that I go. The container of STP carb cleaner says to see immediately see a physician as well. I know alot of folks wouldn't have made the trip, but when it comes to my vision, I chose to follow the advised procedure.


This was a temporary delay to the project (among many other delays), but with safety in mind I'll hopefully be disassembling tonight.

To all the guys that have helped so far on this thread; Thanks! I'm embarrassed not to have been more careful and heed the warnings, but I wanted to post this for other people's safety.

Bill

 

[secureland]

I found some time for the 026 project.
I've disassembled the carb (it looks pretty clean) and purchased a carb kit at the stihl dealer today.
I'm now wondering how to clean the H and L jets. Do I spray cleaner into them and allow it to spray out the outlet?


Thanks,
Bill

 

[madrone]

Bill,
Sorry to hear bout the mishap. It reminds me to be more careful myself.
Lakeside posted some info before about the H and L but I'm a bit confused by it and maybe he'll add some details.
I usually squirt carb cleaner in all the holes, especially where the h and l screws came from and make sure the needle size idle ports blow clean. Then I let it dry and re-assemble.
I'm sure someone will come along with more details soon.

 

[secureland]

I read Lakesides post regarding H and L jets. I've been seeking info and images regarding the "metering chamber" he refers to. I haven't found definitive info yet. Is the "metering chamber" the area underneath the plate that is held down by the 4 screws?

This carb appears clean, with just a bit of dust paritcles on the round disc screen where the needle sits. I can see light easily through there (fish recommended I check for light). Perhaps there is a problem elsewhere in the carb. Once I know exact procedure, I will clean it and try it out.
Perhaps I will end up replacing seals as Lakeside suspects.

Bill

 

[Lakeside53]

Yes....

 

[madrone]

Did anyone send you an IPL of the 026? If you have one check the carb pages for names of parts. If you need one send me a pm with your e-mail.

 

[secureland]

Thanks for the IPL offer Madrone,

I didn't realize the carb breakdown was on the IPL that I've gratefully received from Teacherman. I will use that and the advice I've received to clean this carb out. I'll reinstall it and post back with results.

Thanks for the help,
Bill

 

[madrone]

Don't forget the goggles this time. :Eye: :Eye:

and don't forget,,,,this is supposed to be enjoyable.:monkey:

Sorry to tease....it must have sucked.

 

[secureland]

I cleaned the carb and installed a carb kit purchased from the Stihl dealer.
It started and i was surprised, I hope it didn't get too damaged because the muffler wasn't on, it took me a second to figure out how to turn it off (the choke siwtch isn't working) lol.

I have a list of questions for you guys! LOL I'll get them on later, I have family responsibilities right now. The carb was pretty clean but it was a good experience, it needs fine tuning, I suspect the carb might not have been the problem, but more the black choke/half choke/ run/stop lever and the technique i was using to start the saw before the carb work. Still a ways to go for this saw to be out cutting limbs on firewood tops.