Stihl 028 WB any good?

[darktower007]

My father gave me an older Stihl that belonged to his brother. He believes it was purchased in the mid 1990’s. It’s a little rough and will need a through cleaning and maybe carb cleaning to get going again... but is it a pretty good saw? I cut for firewood. Mostly use 16” bar for everything.

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[darktower007]

It’s says it’s made in West Germany.. so that would mean pre 1990 I assume.... not sure if that matters lol.


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[LoveStihlQuality]

My father gave me an older Stihl that belonged to his brother. He believes it was purchased in the mid 1990’s. It’s a little rough and will need a through cleaning and maybe carb cleaning to get going again... but is it a pretty good saw? I cut for firewood. Mostly use 16” bar for everything.

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Nope. Not worth anything. Send to me for proper disposal....... I've got a soft spot for 028s.. Lot of parts available here.

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[Wood Doctor]

It reminds me of one that I have on board. Cosmetically, mine is in better shape and rins well, but that means this one probably delivered more firewood to the owner or got bounced around in the truck. You said it does not run? Any idea what is wrong?

 

[dmb2613]

that is an older one, may not have a chain brake

 

[darktower007]

It reminds me of one that I have on board. Cosmetically, mine is in better shape and rins well, but that means this one probably delivered more firewood to the owner or got bounced around in the truck. You said it does not run? Any idea what is wrong?

My dad said my uncle rarely used it.. cut a few trees. It’s been in his shop for years. He said the last time he used it it was in 2011 and it ran then.


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[darktower007]

that is an older one, may not have a chain brake

Ut oh.. I assume that’s not good. Does that mean it’s not safe to run?


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[jchipps]

Never owned one, so can't speak to it's performance.

But I'm a firm believer that any of those older Stihl and Husky saws, especially from the 80's and 90's are worth breathing new life into, so long as you get em' cheap .... and don't have to sink an arm and a leg.
No on-board computers, gadgets and gizmos - just need gas, oil, compression and a spark - Someday that alone will be priceless.

Sounds like with a good cleaning and a tune up, you just might have a nice little firewood saw on your hands.

 

[lil171]

Looks like a nice saw. The bonus part is that it is a family saw, and is still in the family. To me, that alone would be worth it. Even if it was a cheap saw, but you got a nice one.

 

[lil171]

The other thing, to me anyways, is it looks like there is a fair bit of metal on that saw rather than plastic. Built better back then.

 

[jchipps]

Ut oh.. I assume that’s not good. Does that mean it’s not safe to run?


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No - not at all unsafe to run.

None of them used to have chain brakes, but somehow we survived

1. No chain-brake = chain won't be stopped in the event of a kickback (but that saw at least has the hand guard)
2. Smaller, Low HP saw, so kickback isn't nearly as much of an issue anyway
3. The .325 chain also lessons the likelihood of kickback (not as aggressive as .375)

4. But with all that said - if you have no prior experience running a chainsaw, you can also purchase a "Safety"chain at Lowe's or one of the Big Box stores.
It's called (anti-kickback) chain, which further reduces the risk of kickback.

5. Beginners should avoid inadvertently, or purposely letting the TIP of the bar touch the wood. (Until you learn the proper technique, that WILL cause kickback)

But once again - No it is not unsafe to run that saw.

 

[darktower007]

No - not at all unsafe to run.

None of them used to have chain brakes, but somehow we survived

1. No chain-brake = chain won't be stopped in the event of a kickback (but that saw does have the hand guard at minimum)
2. Smaller, Low HP saw, so kickback isn't nearly as much of an issue anyway
3. The .325 chain also lessons the likelihood of kickback (not as aggressive as .375)

4. But with all that said - if you have no prior experience running a chainsaw, you can also purchase a "Safety"chain at Lowe's or one of the Big Box stores.
It's called (anti-kickback) chain, which further reduces the risk of kickback.

5. Beginners should avoid inadvertently, or purposely letting the TIP of the bar touch the wood. (Until you learn the proper technique, that WILL cause kickback)

But once again - No it is not unsafe to run that saw.

Okay good. I hardly never plunge cut and usually only cut small trees no bigger than the bar. I use a saw more frequently now that I am stockpiling wood for my new stove insert. Glad to hear the saw should be a good one for years to come once it’s running again.


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[LoveStihlQuality]

Yeah, its pretty unsafe. Better send it to me to be sure. ..... Once tuned in you'll be good to go. Get a shop repair manual and IPL the Beg For Manuals guys. Lotsa help here to.

No - not at all unsafe to run.

None of them used to have chain brakes, but somehow we survived

1. No chain-brake = chain won't be stopped in the event of a kickback (but that saw at least has the hand guard)
2. Smaller, Low HP saw, so kickback isn't nearly as much of an issue anyway
3. The .325 chain also lessons the likelihood of kickback (not as aggressive as .375)

4. But with all that said - if you have no prior experience running a chainsaw, you can also purchase a "Safety"chain at Lowe's or one of the Big Box stores.
It's called (anti-kickback) chain, which further reduces the risk of kickback.

5. Beginners should avoid inadvertently, or purposely letting the TIP of the bar touch the wood. (Until you learn the proper technique, that WILL cause kickback)

But once again - No it is not unsafe to run that saw.

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[Jasonrkba]

I have a super and a woodboss. I run a 16in on the WB and 18 on the super and they run great. There are a few variants of the 028. I believe there are three piston sizes. Downloading the IPL is a must if your going to keep it.


EDIT: it may have points also.

 

[Okie]

I use some 028's in the firewood lot. One is about 40 years old and still runs like the energizer bunny.
Only requiring a carb kit couple times. I always use stihl oil mix and stihl bar oils.
Also have a 028 WB, very good saw.

Appears that saw has been bouncing around in back of a truck.
It would be a good thing to invest in a $35 dollar Stihl carrying case if you plan on using the saw for yourself.
I've always repaired my own saws with some help from the guys on this forum. I've found that saw shop mechanics stay in business by selling customers new saws and bad mouthing customers OLD used saws when they come in for repairs and several saw shop mechanics are not really good saw repair mechanics.

Those type Stihl chainsaws are built for the long haul and with a little bit of TLC maintenance will last a long time.

Not being used occasionally or improperly stored is their enemy.

 

[darktower007]

I have a super and a woodboss. I run a 16in on the WB and 18 on the super and they run great. There are a few variants of the 028. I believe there are three piston sizes. Downloading the IPL is a must if your going to keep it.


EDIT: it may have points also.

Thanks!


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[darktower007]

I use some 028's in the firewood lot. One is about 40 years old and still runs like the energizer bunny.
Only requiring a carb kit couple times. I always use stihl oil mix and stihl bar oils.
Also have a 028 WB, very good saw.

Appears that saw has been bouncing around in back of a truck.
It would be a good thing to invest in a $35 dollar Stihl carrying case if you plan on using the saw for yourself.
I've always repaired my own saws with some help from the guys on this forum. I've found that saw shop mechanics stay in business by selling customers new saws and bad mouthing customers OLD used saws when they come in for repairs and several saw shop mechanics are not really good saw repair mechanics.

Those type Stihl chainsaws are built for the long haul and with a little bit of TLC maintenance will last a long time.

Not being used occasionally or improperly stored is their enemy.

That sounds good.. once I get it cleaned and painted up.. I’ll get a hard case for it.


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[Wood Doctor]

Here's my classic Stihl 028 WB that refuses to die. My 028 Super has more grunt, but this one cuts firewood like a champ:

I generally run an 18" bar on it. I added the outer bumper spike, but other than that, it's all OEM. When I got it, all it really needed was a new fuel line and a tank vent. Age wise, I think she's pushing 40, but like women, they don't like to talk about their age.

 

[Okie]

That sounds good.. once I get it cleaned and painted up.. I’ll get a hard case for it.

You will find that the scars on that saw adds character and it will be happier in the wood lot being used with no fresh paint.
Just take a air hose and clean the air filter and blow out the crud around the cooling fins and up into the chain clutch area.
After you get it running check the chain for proper auto oiling. You can review such on-line using you tube video.
You might want to remove the bar and take a putty knife and clean the bar groove real good on both sides and the bar oiler hole with a wire.
Some of them 028's will start idling slower as the air filter get's sawdust restricted. If idling starts slowly changing during use, don't grab a screwdriver and go knob dicking the carb adjustments, just clean the air filter FIRST.
You will find a case is really handy for hand sharpening tools and a scrench tool and will prevent more scars and plastic damage.
Lots of info on this site and on-line about your saw.

Let us know how it acts when you get too testing?

 

[LoveStihlQuality]

That sounds good.. once I get it cleaned and painted up.. I’ll get a hard case for it.

You will find that the scars on that saw adds character and it will be happier in the wood lot being used with no fresh paint.
Just take a air hose and clean the air filter and blow out the crud around the cooling fins and up into the chain clutch area.
After you get it running check the chain for proper auto oiling. You can review such on-line using you tube video.
You might want to remove the bar and take a putty knife and clean the bar groove real good on both sides and the bar oiler hole with a wire.
Some of them 028's will start idling slower as the air filter get's sawdust restricted. If idling starts slowly changing during use, don't grab a screwdriver and go knob dicking the carb adjustments, just clean the air filter FIRST.
You will find a case is really handy for hand sharpening tools and a scrench tool and will prevent more scars and plastic damage.
Lots of info on this site and on-line about your saw.

Let us know how it acts when you get too testing?

They don't have to be pretty to run good.
This one is my tractor saw bundgeed to tractor or skid steer. Salvaged from a fire. Runs strong.

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