Stihl 034 Bar Oil Mess

[Adirondackstihl]

Well then, I have to rethink this one...perhaps I should yank out the oil pump and try to see if I can locate any issues there. I just can't figure out why the oil wouldn't be making it to the bar and chain. I will up-date later if I happen to get anywhere with it...

Pull the clutch and check the plastic worm gear that drives the oiler.

 

[gdrew888]

So I pulled the pump and couldn't find anything wrong. I ran the saw with the bar off and oil came out the hole that it was supposed to and not from anywhere else. I installed the plate, bar & chain put the cover back on and ran it and this is the mess I was left with. Very little of that oil you see on the saw and clutch cover is making it to the chain and bar. I'm very confused...not that that's particularly a new thing for me, but I'm also at a loss to figure this out???:bang:

Got my kid to help me with the pictures this time...

 

[Trx250r180]

Actually.....I picked up an 034 today. No way there ever was an inner bar plate on that saw. Whats the deal? Goin to take a pic......be right back.

See.....

in this picture above the rh bar stud is a round aluminum thing with a little hole in it ,its your tank vent ,its proby bad ,get a punch inside the tank and drive it out ,put a new one in ,oil mess should be gone ,they are anly a few bucks at the dealer

 

[Frogfarmer]

If the rubber line from the oiler to the bar outlet has a split it will produce results of that nature. With no restriction as in with the bar removed it will appear to operate as it should but with bar installed it will oil the case around the split hose. Its an easy fix if thats the case.

 

[Adirondackstihl]

If youre gonna use the inner bar plate, I recommend removing the bumper strips from the case.
If you wanna use the bumper strips, dont use the bar plate, they are not meant to be used in conjunction and may be restricting you from completely tightening the bar....allowing oil to go everywhere except where its intended.
I would try this before knocking out the tank vent.

 

[Trx250r180]

If youre gonna use the inner bar plate, I recommend removing the bumper strips from the case.
If you wanna use the bumper strips, dont use the bar plate, they are not meant to be used in conjunction and may be restricting you from completely tightening the bar....allowing oil to go everywhere except where its intended.
I would try this before knocking out the tank vent.

yes that saw doesnt use the metal plate ,leave it out ,those plastic guides keep the chain from derailing ,inboard adjuster type saws need no tin plate ,the plates for saws with the adjuster between the bar studs

 

[gdrew888]

Just got back from my friends place who happens to have an 034 as well. I told him what was going on with my saw and asked him if I could take a look at his. His saw has the front adjust and no plate. He thinks my saw has the wrong bar at 28 inches and suggests I try his smaller bar. Getting late now but I will try the smaller bar tomorrow without the plate and with the synthetic guides in place. Thanks for all the support out there!

 

[hotshot]

If youre gonna use the inner bar plate, I recommend removing the bumper strips from the case.
If you wanna use the bumper strips, dont use the bar plate, they are not meant to be used in conjunction and may be restricting you from completely tightening the bar....allowing oil to go everywhere except where its intended.
I would try this before knocking out the tank vent.

Been following this "head scratcher" to see what direction it went...but removing the upper & lower bumpers is right on the money. You also may need to put on a thin layer of Hylomar sealant when you put on a new inner plate, as the case looks pitted/corroded at the top, and it must be completely flat across the whole surface to prevent leaks. The bar will now slide (adjust) against the inner plate, not the soft magnesium case, when you use an inner guide.

What grade bar oil is that? (Summer/Winter), as it looks like someone was using low viscosity transmission fluid.

 

[gdrew888]

Been following this "head scratcher" to see what direction it went...but removing the upper & lower bumpers is right on the money. You also may need to put on a thin layer of Hylomar sealant when you put on a new inner plate, as the case looks pitted/corroded at the top, and it must be completely flat across the whole surface to prevent leaks. The bar will now slide (adjust) against the inner plate, not the soft magnesium case, when you use an inner guide.

What grade bar oil is that? (Summer/Winter), as it looks like someone was using low viscosity transmission fluid.

It's summer grade bar oil I think but I will confirm when I get home from work tonight. Summer grade should be thicker than winter one would think and yes that does look a little soupy to be summer grade oil. The saw and oil are stored in a heated workshop so to them its still summer.

 

[gdrew888]

I just noticed when I went back to look at the pictures for corrosion that my oil outlet is siting further out than the picture of the saw that Adirondackstihl submitted. I wonder if I need to seat my outlet back into the case further? Also, it does look like I have corrosion above the outlet as pointed out by hotshot, could be an issue there too. Thanks!

 

[Mad Professor]

And the leak is..........???????

 

[SkippyKtm]

If the rubber line from the oiler to the bar outlet has a split it will produce results of that nature. With no restriction as in with the bar removed it will appear to operate as it should but with bar installed it will oil the case around the split hose. Its an easy fix if thats the case.

I think Frogfarmer's got it right... Me thinks its the oiler's output tube that has an issue. Pull the plastic cover off that surrounds the clutch drum, you'll probably will need to pull the drum and clutch to get a gander at that oiler. I'll bet ol' froggie's right.... :msp_wink:

 

[gdrew888]

I think Frogfarmer's got it right... Me thinks its the oiler's output tube that has an issue. Pull the plastic cover off that surrounds the clutch drum, you'll probably will need to pull the drum and clutch to get a gander at that oiler. I'll bet ol' froggie's right.... :msp_wink:

Nope, pulled the oil-pump yesterday and couldn't locate a problem.

Got home tonight and plugged the oil outlet hole and ran the saw without the bar/chain to confirm if oil would come out from behind the clutch...no oil came out.

Put on the smaller bar from my friends saw and ran it and still didn't work properly, oil mess.

Next I grabbed a chunk of sandpaper and cleaned up the face area where the bar seats around the oil pump (no plate installed)...it did help a bit. I'm now getting a small amount of oil flinging off the chain when I run it up but still getting a fair bit of oil splattering around the clutch cover too. I'm tired of playing with it tonight but will give it another going over after work tomorrow.

 

[lefturnfreek]

My 034 has given me some grief over the years but never leak like that, usually just a bit of saw dust build up between the bar and saw case. I did a quick search and the bar ya got on there isn't listed for am 034, so could be just the wrong bar on there.

This is what I found,


BAR - STIHL 24in 3/8P .050G PWRMTCH MS340/341/360/361/390/440/441/660 Can$120.30
3003 000 8830
BAR - STIHL 24in 3/8P .050G POWERMATCH
MS341/360/361/390/440/441/660

 

[gdrew888]

My 034 has given me some grief over the years but never leak like that, usually just a bit of saw dust build up between the bar and saw case. I did a quick search and the bar ya got on there isn't listed for am 034, so could be just the wrong bar on there.

This is what I found,


BAR - STIHL 24in 3/8P .050G PWRMTCH MS340/341/360/361/390/440/441/660 Can$120.30
3003 000 8830
BAR - STIHL 24in 3/8P .050G POWERMATCH
MS341/360/361/390/440/441/660

Yes that‘s what I figured too so I tried the bar from my friends 034 (smaller bar) with the same oil mess result. I was thinking both bars couldn't be wrong for this saw but who knows...not me that’s for sure. I checked to see if the pickup hole on the bars were aligning with the oil outlet from the saw and it looks like they do. Perhaps I should turn down the bar-oil flow rate to minimum and see if that helps to rectify the situation. The only issue I have with that idea is that I’m only getting a minimal amount of oil coming off the chain when I do a run up test now. Turning down the oil flow rate could only serve to make it worse with respect to bar and chain lubrication.

 

[Frogfarmer]

If everything is in order with the oiler and delivery line I would suspect the clutch cover isnt putting enough pressure on the bar in the correct places to seal the system properly. I havent ever used one of the plastic clutch covers as all of mine are the mag type and never had any problems. Try a mag clutch cover and see what happens.

 

[Frogfarmer]

Also if the oil delivery tube isnt seated tightly in the case it will leak past the hose and back to the clutch housing. Verify the oil tube is tight in the case.

 

[Mad Professor]

Also if the oil delivery tube isnt seated tightly in the case it will leak past the hose and back to the clutch housing. Verify the oil tube is tight in the case.

Yes no way the brass bushing at the outlet should have been loose. That hose is thermoplastic and requires heat just to get that brass outlet and/or pump nipple installed.

Also try this. Mount the bar w/or without the metal chain catcher plate using only the nuts and some washers on bar (no clutch cover), and no chain.

Start the saw and see where the oil is puking from; Bar groove (like it should), between bar/case, under pump cover.

I'll bet the output line is loose or cracked if there is not a leak at the pump itself.

You could also do this test without the cover for the clutch installed, wear some safety glasses.

Also, does saw have OEM thermoplastic outlet hose w/metal coil insert, or a jury rigged substitute?


See the pics I posted.

The oil pump kit shows the hose cut to length (74mm) with bass nipple already installed (using heat).

Oil hose installed is the above hose seated from outside of case

oil pump connected is after inserting spring coil, then heating pump end of hose and working over pump outlet nipple

Oil pump outlet is just the hole in the case, no hose.

The above pics are from a 036 build but apply to 034 saws too.

Note:

You can connect pump to hose first (using heat), insert coil and work through case outlet, heat and install brass bushing to outlet end of hose, then tap hose outlet back into case (backwards of what I did).

Hope this helps,

MP

 

[gdrew888]

Forgot I have to take the kid to Air Cadets tonight and therefore can't play with my saw.

I know my oil line isn't seated all the way into the case like the pictures you are showing...the light-bulb just went on:msp_ohmy:. When the bar is installed there could be enough back pressure pushing the oil back into the pump chamber...hummmmmmmm.

I will try to check it out tomorrow after work and get back to you. THANKS for all the guidance and support!!!

 

[z71mike]

Yes that‘s what I figured too so I tried the bar from my friends 034 (smaller bar) with the same oil mess result.

Bar length has nothing to do with this issue. They all oil the same, regardless of length.