Stihl 034

[ArborView]

I've run saws all my life so I know how to use them and maintain them but I'll admit I don't know much about horsepower and the mechanical end of it. I just took down an old huge sugar maple for a customer. Right now I'm bucking the log up into 16" pieces so I can split it up with wedges and haul it out of there. I ususally run a 16" bar on my 034 but put a 20" bar on it with a new chain for this tree. No pun intended, but the saw just isn't cutting it. I don't know if the 20" bar is too much for the saw (i've used it before but never on a tree this big) or if the saw just isn't running good. I start cutting and it seems like the saw is bogging down but it runs great with the 16" bar on it. I remember a local old timer telling me that those big old sugar maples get just like iron when they're big and old and you have to file your chain a certain way in order to cut them. Any ideas what might be going on here??

 

[ricksvar]

Hi ArborView,I'am like you when it comes to chain saws.How's the no load rev with that 20" bar and new chain?Chain matches sprocket properly?Just a thought,hope you find the problem soon.
Rick

 

[ccicora]

Good question you have.....
Here is my imput to the situation and I'll even give an example.
If you take the amount of avalible Hp to the number of teeth in the wood you will see with a larger bar more teeth touch the wood for cutting. On a smaller bar less teeth touch the wood with the same overall Hp. Therefore you have more cutting power with the smaller bar.
Part 2..
The larger bar is 20" and the smaller bar is 16". So the larger bar has 8 inches (4 on top &4 on Bottom) more of chain than the smaller. Now you also need to pull that extra weight of chain. That also eats up some Hp.
Now my example: I bought a 3120 with 2 bars. a 16" and a 24". Then we took the new chains and barried the bars full length into some nice freash red oak. I could get the 24" to slow down to a stop. But the more I pushed on the 16" the more chips that flew. I also had the rev limiter kicking in with the 16" bar.
So, in my opionion smaller is better.:angel:

Later,
chris

Ps. What is small and guys bragg about?...?



a cell phone!

 

[chainsawworld]

arborview,
first check out the bar for damage(bent,siezed nose,pinched rail,etc.). next, check the chain for damage(all five parts of the cutter not working correctly). gauges are the same on the bar and chain. for this increase, you may need to use a 3/8-7 rim but your saw may be one of the ones that only have the spur drive and that is most likely a 7. next do your basic field tune-up, making sure the saw is at top proformance.
if this does not work, do a compression test. the saw may need to freshened-up. not a big deal.
if you really like the 034, i just happen to have one for sale(if it did not sell yesterday).
protect yourselves; marty

 

[rbtree]

While I agree with all you eastern, bar length disadvantaged folks, the difference shouldn't be all that noticable. I own an 034 super, and 2 036's, 0.3 ci larger than an 034. I have mostly run 24" bars on them, but now prefer 20". They pull the 24 just fine. Something must be wrong. Or, double check and time the bars in some cuts. I'd expect 10-15% slower cutting from the 20 inch.

Overall, I'm listening to you guys and running shorter bars on most of my saws. For limbing on the ground, longer bars are nice, as they require less bending over. And for easiest felling, and blocking in the tree, I always prefer a bar longer than the wood, it really simplifies creating an accurate, fast wedge and backcut.

16 and 24 inch bars on a 3120, mama mia! I have 36, 42 and 60's for mine. and 32 and 36 for the 066, 25, 28 and 32 for the 044's, 24 and 32 for the 372, 20 and 24 for the 036's, 14 and 16 for the 335.

Now if I had 10 cords of hardwood pecker poles to make into firewood, i'd put a 16 on the 066 and 372.

 

[ArborView]

I know the rim sprocket is good because I just replaced it and it's the same pitch as the chain, 3/8. I tried it again today with a brand new chain and almost as soon as I start cutting into the wood, I end up cutting crooked. Should I assume I need a new bar? I can't see anything visibly wrong with it-bent, pinched, etc. It's a Winsor speed tip bar. It's been around a while, but I don't really use it too much. How do you know when it's time to replace it anyways?

 

[jokers]

Arborview, is the bar the right gauge for the chain? Since you didn`t mention crooked cuts in your first post, I am assuming that this problem just surfaced, is it possible that you hit something in the tree today when you started cutting? Residential trees are notorious for having embedded metal in them. Now back to the apparent shortness of power, after you checked the bar for all the obvious signs of damage and correct gauge, did you check to see if the oiler is putting out enough juice? Dry chain is very power hungry. After the basic field tune up Marty suggested, maybe it`s time to look at the metering diaphragm in the carb, but maybe a thourough cleaning and rebuild of the carb is in order. I just did one off an 034 for a friend, took about 7 minutes once it was off the saw, which was no big deal either. How about your fuel filter, is it dirty or gelled up? Air filter coated with anything unusual? Just my two cents, Russ

 

[ArborView]

Russ, the chain and bar are both 50 gauge. Actually, the saw was cutting crooked the other day too. I thought a new chain might be in order because the old one was beyond its lifetime. I'm sure I haven't hit any metal too. I'm not so sure now if it's a power problem or just a bar and chain problem. Would it cut crooked if the chain wasn't getting enough oil?

 

[manofstihl]

1. Check the bar nose. It may be worn out.
2. Check the chain- if you have a cutting problem with a new chain, the bar is at fault.
3. You may have an engine problem. 034 saws are quite cabable of pulling 24' bars, I think you have a fuel problem- check/replace your tank vent, fuel line, and filter. A compression check is not a bad idea; if its under about 120 its weak, if its under 100, buy new rings. Also check the air intake system. (airfilter)

 

[chainsawworld]

arborview,
if you feel the chain is worn out that is a good place to start. if not, check to make sure the top plates are the same lenght and sharpened at the same angle. the top plate directs the cutter in the kerf. next, make sure all the cutters have points. the point pulls the fiber. has anyone filed the rakes? are all the side plates the same depth?
also check the small srceen in the carb. if you are still at a stand still. protect yourselves; marty

 

[Fish]

If you are cutting crooked with a new chain and sprocket
then your bar groove may be worn out, causing the
chain to wander or lean in the cut. As noted in another
thread, bar condition can really impact the saw's
performance.

 

[ricksvar]

Seems you have a bar/chain problem not related to saw powerhead.My experience with lack of chain oil is the saw will drop below it's operating powerband quickly,especially under heavy load,but not tend to cut crooked with a sharp chain.I would consider seriously a new bar and chain(or sharpen on a grinder).I would also max out the chain oiler.Hope this helps.
Rick

 

[ricksvar]

You might also check to see if the oil port holes on your 20" bar line up correctly with the oiler port on your powerhead.
Rick

 

[jokers]

Bar Problem

Hi Arborview, I am also leaning(pun intended) toward a bar problem if you are cutting crooked with a new chain. The chain will bind on it`s non-cuuting parts if it leans too much. This could easily account for the apparent lack of power. Before you trash the bar, take a quick look at it and see if it just needs a little TLC. You could hammer it back to gauge using Walts method and then file the rails even and smooth. This could save you from having to buy a new one if the long bar sits alot. It doen`t take a lot of friction on the side of the chain to really drag your saw down. Good Luck, Russ

 

[ArborView]

Thanks for all your help guys. This is where I stand now. New bar, new chain, new sprocket. Cuts straight now but still is bogging down once the bar gets into the wood. I replaced the fuel filter, air filter, and spark plug. I'm not sure about the chain oiler though. I've got it maxed out and I see oil on the tree where I tested it but it seems like it's kind of clumpy? when it comes out. The bar and chain also seem to get hot really quick too. Is this an oiler problem? Thanks.

 

[ricksvar]

WOW,like you mentioned at the beginning of this thread,I'am afraid you've encountered some tough wood.I've ran into wood like that myself,dulls chain quickly.I would cut the log by making a series of smaller cuts that would avoid putting the bar under full load.Try to maintain full rpm,feathering the bar with little or no downward force,allowing the chain oiler to keep the bar as cool as possible.If need be,use a squirt can to put extra oil into the cut(just a thought,wont hurt anything).This is a time you might wish you had a 046 or 066 with Stihl Rapid Duro chain!

 

[jokers]

ArborView, does the chain look clean and at all oily? Most of the chains that I have seen that were run on the dry side looked grungy, with baked on pitch or sap. Definitely looked dry, but some wood is worse than others in this area. Is it cold enough for you to be using winter grade bar oil? Is there any chance there is water in your oil? Still thinking. Russ

 

[ArborView]

I don't know, the chain just doesn't seem like it's getting enough oil to me. That bar got pretty hot just from me trying it out. It's not the wood either because I get the same results on other stuff. I just cleaned out the oil tank and blew out the line. I also took the clutch off and the plastic cover that goes around it. I couldn't believe how much gunk was in there.
It's been fairly warm here so I've been using regular bar oil. However, I did get a gallon of cheap walmart brand only because the Stihl dealer is all out for another week or so. I can't believe that would make much difference though.
If it's not running right tomorrow it's headed to the repair shop.

 

[Dennis]

Everyone seems to have nailed down the usual problems...if it is an oiling problem.....try looking at your oiler gear...are the threads on it stripped? is the actual metal strip turing too freely on the oiler gear? If it is just bogging when you go into a cut, anothewr problem I have encountered, albeit not frequently, is the gas line rubber detiorates, and actually sucks together, instead of sucking fuel, thus cutting fuel supply off...just throwing a few more ideas in.....

 

[ArborView]

Well, whatta ya know? I just started reading some old posts on oils, etc. I think I may have done a bad thing getting that cheap bar oil. Someone mentioned how they burned up several Stihl bars using cheap stuff and how the cheaper brands use reject hydraulic oil. This stuff I bought is pretty clear. Guess I better find some good stuff tomorrow and give that a try.